Can I glue-up?

You can edge joint in a lot of ways.
I use a jointer fence on my router table where the outfeed side has a strip of plastic laminate glued on. Just set it up so the outfeed is dead even with the cutting edge of a straight bit. It may take a couple of tries to get it dead on.

Another method I use is double sided taping a known straight edge to the board and either use a flush trim bit in the router to true it up or have the straight edge sticking out a bit and run that edge along my tablesaw fence truing up the other side. I prefer the two router methods.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

Yes if it is SLR one side. Then rip the other . Then the SLR side. After you have both sides cut they will be parallel. I like to then take a very light cut off both sides. Just about a half a blade with one clean motion through the board. Not stoping the board during the cut. The pause in the cut can leave a blade mark, leaving a small gap. You should be fine for your glue up

-- Smile and wave boys just smile and wave

You can get perfectly acceptable edges joints if your TS blade is perfectly perpendicular to the table and the edges are straight. Make your cuts and lay the boards on your bench with the edges pushed together. Gaps less than a couple of thousandths will close up when clamped.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

If you have one good straight edge, run that against the fence to cut the other side off. Flip it and run the fresh cut side against the fence to cut the other side off. (Just as Trapshter stated.)

If you need to clean one side up to start with, I also endorse Nite Walker’s methods on the router table and using a straightedge. These are all common practice in the shop for achieving a straight edge on a board.

One thing that will help is to to do your layout on the boards for where the parts go, then chop the long boards down to more manageable sizes. That way, instead of trying to joint 10’ boards you will be jointing a shorter more manageable length.

If your table saw is tuned up, a good glue-line rip blade will provide a cut clean and square enough that you can take the boards straight from the table saw and glue them together without the need for running the edges across the jointer. I have a few of these blades and they work great.

Mine are Freud full kerf thickness blades and I pretty much leave one on the table saw all of the time. I have another blade that I install for cutting plywood with no tear out. These are the two blades that get used all of the time.

Here are a couple of the Glue Line Rip blades I have. The silver one is used the most and on the table saw right now.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

If you Google “table saw jointing jig or jointing on a tablesaw” you get many hits on how to do it. If you are not 100% sure that your blade is not absolutely perpendicular, make sure you lay out the boards for grain match and when jointing them, flip every other board to take into account any angle error on the blade. I have “jointed’ some very large, long boards for a tabletop with good results. Set up is key to success on this operation.

As also stated, a good straightedge with a flush trim bit on a router also makes an acceptable edge. Take small cuts and use a shearing router bit for a clean cut.

I use the Freud glue line rip blade also with good results. Mine is the thin kerf.

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

Awesome, thanks for all of the feedback. This is why LJs is great. I have a few night stands to build in a month or so. Further questions and photos to follow.