Wooden kitchen worktops - sequence of installing

Ladies, Gents, kitchen installers or experienced work top fitters – I would dearly appreciate your advice on the sequence of installing wooden kitchen worktops from those that have undertaken the job.

Having now gutted our kitchen, I will this weekend be attempting for the first time to install the work tops in our kitchen. I have done quite a bit of research, but there are always little bits that never quite seem to be made clear and I would therefore appreciate any advice on the following on how to go about making a nice clean job.

What I propose to do is offer my proposed sequence of installing the w/tops and if I am going about it the wrong way would hope others with the experience could point me in the right direction.

There will be three worktops set out in a “U” configuration. As you walk into the kitchen, there will be the left side w/top of the “U” abutted against the wall (aproxx 7’ of run). This w/top will host the oven and hob (requiring it to be cut out to allow fitting of the hob). The base run of the U will host the sink (aprox 8’) and the right w/top will also double as the breakfast bar and will be 7’ long and 3’ wide.

The meeting points between the base w/top (sink side) and two right angled w/tops will be straight butt joints, rather than a male/female scribed joint normally used in laminated work tops.

The w/tops are presently all over siize, so I was thinking of cutting to rough lenght, how much do I leave as a margin? 2/3”?

I would think the walls won’t be bang on square so the existing square cut factory ends will require some tweeking to ensure a tight fit.

So, here are my thoughts on how to go about it.

1. Cut all w/tops to rough lenght
2. Rest left hand w/top (hob) on to of base cabinets along wall using it as a rough reference.
3. Scribe and cut to walls ensuring an even overhang of the base units.
4. Offer up base w/top (sink w/top) ensuring the butt joint is square while ensuring an even overhang of base units and also paralell to wall.
5. Now, with hopefully these two w/tops at right angles to one another I can then offer up the breakfast bar worktop.
6. It is at this point I am a little unsure as how to proceed with regards to marking and cutting. I was intending to leave this end of the sink w/top a little over lenght to allow for final measurement and ultimate fitting.
7. Having set the b/bar w/top in the desired location bring the sink w/top up to it and using the b/bar as the gauge, use a pencil from beneath to scribe the line of the meeting w/tops?
8. Cut sink worktop along this line? Whats the best way to cut to ensure a perfectly straight line….....Router with straight edge??
9. W/tops should now all be in final position.
10. Mark positions for sink and hob cut outs
11. Mark positions for underneath connector bolts.
12. Remove w/tops and rout holes for connector bolts on the underside of w/tops ( I have a w/top jig for this)
13. Cut out holes for both hob and sink in respective w/tops
14. Relocate w/tops into desired final location.
15. Attach/screw first w/top (Hob/oven) to wall & base units
16. Offer up sink w/top to hob w/top and connect using connector bolts. How tightly do I tighten the bolts….do I allow for movement or tighten the connector bolts fully. I was also thinking of using a bead of silicone caulk to prevent water egress at the butt joints?
17. Secure sink w/top in place to base units & wall.
18. Offer up b/ar wortop and connect using connector bolts
19. Secure b/bar to base units.
20. Apply liberal coats of Danish oil to protect and reduce movement.

I hope this is about right as far as the sequence goes but i have a couple more queries if you don’t mind considering.

20. How much of a gap should I allow for expansion between work tops and the walls?
21. When I connect the worktops using the connector bolts, does the action of tightening the bolt pull the worktops out of line?
22. I have read that the w/tops should be fixed securing at the front edge and not so securily/robustly at the back where the w/tops are affixed to the the wall. I understand this will prevent the worktop pulling the eventual tile/ caulk from the wall.

I have already given all w/tops 4 coats of Danish oil on the underside to reduce distortion.

I know this has been a little long winded topic to read, so thank you all for taking the time to read and consider, but I hope I can benefit from those who have experience of this job, or do it for a living.

I would however also appreciate it greatly if you have not carried out this job, not to offer advice on how you think it should be undertaken. I don’t want to appear ungrateful or rude but I’m confused enough not to be given conflicting info lol.

Thanks again all.

David

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan