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Anyone use untinted base paint as a substitute for spar varnish?

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Forum topic by dhazelton posted 855 days ago 2791 views 3 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


855 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: finishing

Like the question says – I have to sand and clear coat a wood door that faces southwest and has no overhang protection, so the sun, rain and snow beat it pretty badly. Customer is disappointed that the last guy’s job didn’t even last 2 years, and I believe he used a Cetol product. I just read that using an untinted base paint will outlast varnish because it has more UV inhibitors. Any one have any experience with this?


28 replies so far

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GrandpaLen

1455 posts in 867 days


#1 posted 855 days ago

I have not personally had any experience with this product for that application.
I can suggest that you go to Charles Neil’s site lumberjocks.com/CharlesNeil or go to his home page on this site and drop him a note. There are probably many others here that could help you , but being new to this site I’m not certain.
I have watched a few of his video clips and he may have the answer you’re looking for.

Good Luck.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

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Radu

299 posts in 1638 days


#2 posted 855 days ago

There was another discussion here a while ago about outdoor finishes. Someone did mention about using untinted base paint. He had to snatch it from the guys in the paint department at HD as they wouldn’t sell like like that.

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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


#3 posted 855 days ago

I’ve found enough positive input on it to try it. There’s a small family owned paint store that I can go to who will probably sell me a quart. I’ll let you know if it works, at least how it looks and goes on.

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Radu

299 posts in 1638 days


#4 posted 855 days ago

Here is another discussion: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/8120. See post #5 (if you haven’t seen it yet).

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fussy

980 posts in 1646 days


#5 posted 855 days ago

It works great. It looks murky when opened, but dries absolutely clear. It has more uv inhibitors than spar, which has very little. Spar is a long oil that is made to be flexible. It really has almost no value for uv inhibition. Untinted base, however, is made to survive outside so it is loaded. In any paint you choose, the more you pay, the more you get. This is the one area I have found where this is an absolute fact of life.

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


#6 posted 854 days ago

I had read that link Radu. I went to the paint store and described what I wanted and the salesman told me in 35 years of working there he had never heard search a thing. I said ‘can we put some base on a stick and dry it?’ He was astonished that it turned out clear and sold me the quart telling me to come back a couple years down the road and tell him how it worked. I had done some pine screen frames for this same customer last June with Helmsman (I don’t know why he wanted varnished pine -eye of the beholder) and they were starting to fail when I saw them today.

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Radu

299 posts in 1638 days


#7 posted 854 days ago

Thanks for the update. Let us know how your project comes up and how it holds down the road.

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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


#8 posted 851 days ago

I’ll say one thing, it looks incredible. Can’t remember the brand but it’s an oil base that was close to $20 a quart, an industrial paint that I once picked up in black to paint my truck frame. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to anyone.

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Bill White

3340 posts in 2555 days


#9 posted 851 days ago

Just be aware that ANY finish exposed as you stated will not be a long lived finish. Spar, clear spar, poly yada, yada, will need to be refreshed. EL SOL will prevail. Just don’t get into a situation that will give ya a “don’t know squat” problem. Even the best nautical finishes require constant upkeep.
Just my thoughts.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


#10 posted 851 days ago

I know that. The problem with this door is that the old finishes darkened and the stain they kept from last time wouldn’t blend in. I had to custom mix different stains with some black to get things to look passable. Mine was the first refresh of an antique door they had dipped and finished from bare wood. It will never look like that again. BUT – the cost was the same to try this, so try I did. If they get more than a year and a half out of it (like the old finish) they will be ahead.

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Fred Hargis

1637 posts in 1088 days


#11 posted 851 days ago

That has been my go to outdoor clear finish for the last 10 years or so…ever since I first read that Jim Kull article. I bought the Olympic #5 at Lowes, and as someone mentioned it was a challenge; Skippy Stockgirl told me that can’t sell it untinted, so I snuck a can out and bought it. It will have to be renewed over time, but it will likely outlast anything except maybe some of the true marine spar varnishes.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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dhazelton

1155 posts in 892 days


#12 posted 851 days ago

Just checked the can – Coronado Industrial oil base. Does anyone remember Carver Tripps Liquid Glass? That was milky looking like this and had the exact same glass like feel when you ran your hand over it.

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terdferguson

5 posts in 426 days


#13 posted 426 days ago

very interesting post

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terdferguson

5 posts in 426 days


#14 posted 426 days ago

would like to find out more

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terdferguson

5 posts in 426 days


#15 posted 426 days ago

getting to 5 posts

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