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Need some planing advice.

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Forum topic by Rob posted 2245 days ago 595 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rob

197 posts in 2273 days


2245 days ago

I’ve got some 8’ long oak boards with a bit of a wind. They’ve already been planed to 1” thickness. I’m thinking of making a mission style table with them. I figure I could use them the thickness they are (which I’d prefer) or I could do with less. Anyway, I was wondering which way would be easier to plane, the whole board before I cut, or after I cut? Actually I know I shouldn’t cut until things are flat but I have my doubts about a planer taking out wind. Isn’t it so gradual over the 8 feet that the planner would just give me a thinner board with a wind? I don’t have a power planer so I’d be getting this outsourced if I go this route. Perhaps I could cut the pieces smaller and then hand plane from that point. So I just need some advice about how to tackle these boards.

The one board is without wind but has a bow over the 8’ span, I think I can use that one for my table top frame and it will be held straight by the table; am I wrong about this?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Rob


5 replies so far

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GaryK

10262 posts in 2594 days


#1 posted 2245 days ago

Cut it to length first (a little oversized).

You will save a lot of thickness doing it that way.

For example you had a 1” thick board with a twist. One corner was 1” up in the air. Plane that flat and you will have nothing left. Cut it in half and you corner might stick up 1/2” in the air so you can get a 1/2” thick
board out of it.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

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Rob

197 posts in 2273 days


#2 posted 2245 days ago

That makes good sense; thanks Gary. Now some of my pieces are over six feet long and the minimum I can plane them is to 3/4; if they still have a wind after that should I try to use it or get new wood? I’m thinking if I put a tenon on each end then the legs will bend the wind back into shape.

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Bob #2

3808 posts in 2627 days


#3 posted 2244 days ago

I try not to use any wood with wind in it.
It not a real good sign for heirloom type stuff.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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GaryK

10262 posts in 2594 days


#4 posted 2244 days ago

For a piece that long I would get something straight to start with.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Keith Cruickshank's profile

Keith Cruickshank

41 posts in 2250 days


#5 posted 2244 days ago

I would concur with the advice above, and Gary’s advice to cut to approx length before doing your final dressing of the board is important. That advice, in my view, is spot on. Much less waste that way. Also by cutting to approx lengths and widths before your final dimensioning, you can allow the wood to move and adjust it’s internal forces to major cuts. Tension is released from many boards when you cut it or plane it so it is good to creep up on the final dimension, let it rest a bit and move (twist, bow, cup) and then continue to do final dimensioning. That way the tension is released before you hit your final dimension. If you approach in stages, then when you do your final squaring, the stock won’t move much after that.

Getting wind out of stock, can be done by machine on a jointer, if you have one large enough for your piece, but I find that it’s easier and quicker sometimes to take wind out by hand. I have a video on how to use a handplane to take twist/wind out of stick that might be useful. It’s on my personal blog at: http://woodtreks.com/how-to-use-a-hand-plane/21/

But all of the advice I’ve read here is spot on.

Keith Cruickshank

.

-- Keith Cruickshank, www.woodtreks.com - on-demand woodworking videos

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