...well, yes…sorry, another one.
So I bought a Ridgid JP0610 off craigslist a while back, and it's always run a bit "rougher" than I thought it should (i.e. vibration, etc), but initially it cut fine. However, over the past 6 months or so, I noticed that when I would try to joint a board, the front and read of the board would end up having more material removed that the center does. So if you were to look at the profile of a jointed board as it sits on the outfeed table, it would look something like this:
I bought new knives and replaced the original ones around that time, but that didn't help so I just resigned myself to the fact that I didn't have a working jointer, but recently I decided to spend the money to buy a real machinists straightedge, feeler gauges and oneway multi gauge in order to try and get it working again. I watched Marc Spag's jointer setup video, and while I understand the concepts, for some reason, I just don't seem to be able to put them into practice.
Now, the oneway multi gauge hasn't arrived yet, so I don't know for certain that the knives are even with the outfeed table, but I set my straightedge on the outfeed table and put it as close to the knives as I could without the two contacting each other and it looks pretty darn close to me, so I think I'm ok there.
Next, I rotated the cutterhead so there wasn't a knife facing up, and then raised the infeed table so it was at the same height as the outfeed table and laid the straightedge across both tables. Unfortunately, my eyesight isn't the greatest, but I couldn't see any gaps. I used a .002" feeler gauge and was able to get it to slide under the straightedge with some resistance around the middle of the infeed table, but not closer toward the cutterhead or closer to the "infeed side" of the infeed table.
I also saw a shortcut for checking if the tables are coplanar by using two framing squares. I set the long leg of a square on each table with the short legs pointing up in the middle. When I did that and pushed the short legs of the squares together, they seemed to meet uniformly for the entire length of the short legs, which would seem to indicate that the tables are coplanar.
So, in short, help! I've done a lot of research online, but I think part of the problem is that there's so MUCH out there, so I'm not sure where to begin.
So I bought a Ridgid JP0610 off craigslist a while back, and it's always run a bit "rougher" than I thought it should (i.e. vibration, etc), but initially it cut fine. However, over the past 6 months or so, I noticed that when I would try to joint a board, the front and read of the board would end up having more material removed that the center does. So if you were to look at the profile of a jointed board as it sits on the outfeed table, it would look something like this:
I bought new knives and replaced the original ones around that time, but that didn't help so I just resigned myself to the fact that I didn't have a working jointer, but recently I decided to spend the money to buy a real machinists straightedge, feeler gauges and oneway multi gauge in order to try and get it working again. I watched Marc Spag's jointer setup video, and while I understand the concepts, for some reason, I just don't seem to be able to put them into practice.
Now, the oneway multi gauge hasn't arrived yet, so I don't know for certain that the knives are even with the outfeed table, but I set my straightedge on the outfeed table and put it as close to the knives as I could without the two contacting each other and it looks pretty darn close to me, so I think I'm ok there.
Next, I rotated the cutterhead so there wasn't a knife facing up, and then raised the infeed table so it was at the same height as the outfeed table and laid the straightedge across both tables. Unfortunately, my eyesight isn't the greatest, but I couldn't see any gaps. I used a .002" feeler gauge and was able to get it to slide under the straightedge with some resistance around the middle of the infeed table, but not closer toward the cutterhead or closer to the "infeed side" of the infeed table.
I also saw a shortcut for checking if the tables are coplanar by using two framing squares. I set the long leg of a square on each table with the short legs pointing up in the middle. When I did that and pushed the short legs of the squares together, they seemed to meet uniformly for the entire length of the short legs, which would seem to indicate that the tables are coplanar.
So, in short, help! I've done a lot of research online, but I think part of the problem is that there's so MUCH out there, so I'm not sure where to begin.