Handplane advice

Absolutely.

LumberJock Alf has good info on her web site

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/shootingboards.html

My current shooting board setup is in my blog. Plane is by Lumberjock Phil Edwards and the shooting board is by Michael Conners out of Australia.

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/WayneC/blog/1987

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Oh and if your looking to make a shooting board from the plans in Alf’s sites, I would recommend a used Stanley Baily 5 1/2 as a good starter plane to use. If you want to spend a little more money then one of the low angle jack planes from LN or LV.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Also depending on what your doing you can plane end grain with the right technique with a low angle block plane or a bench plane for that matter.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I love my shooting board, I have it set up to do 90’s and 45’s. I use my LN low angle jack or my LN Scew plane they both do a great job.

-- Taigert - Milan, IN

ya its not a good idea to run end grain over a jointer but a shooting board would work great on end grain. thats the beauty of planes, they can be used for almost any task you can think of.

I use an old Bailey #7 with an after-market blade for my shooting. It’s a great thing to be able to fine tune the length of a piece 1/1000 of an inch at a time.

I played with both the LN and LV low angle jacks at the WW show a few months ago, and fell in love with the LN. But my #7 works well enough that I haven’t brought myself to spend the money yet.

-- johnjoiner

Wow, guys.

Thanks for all the information. It was all very useful.

Dale

-- Dale, southeast Misouri http://www.makingwoodentoys.net

Yes, as Wayne says, a low angle block plane is great for working end grain. If you don’t have a shooting board handy, the key in that case is to use a backer block or board to prevent tear-out on the back side where the blade edge exits the back side of the stock. The shooting board has one built-in so to speak, but you can get the same results in a pinch with a backer board simply mounted behind the stock place in a vice.

Good luck.

Keith
p.s. For some, this video demo might help – go to:
http://woodtreks.com/an-introduction-to-five-top-plane-types/20/
(go to minute 2 for block plane demo on end grain)

-- Keith Cruickshank, www.woodtreks.com - on-demand woodworking videos

Cool video Keith. Who is the manufacture of the wooden smoother and jointer? HNT Gordon?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

They look like Ulmia brand planes

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Dale – not much new to say here, but a shooting board is a must to fine tune the work you’re doing…especially good on that scale. It’s true that almost any well tuned plane can give you good results.

I use a LN 62 for my shooting, but have felt the LV and it really seems to have more heft (which may make it even a better plane for shooting). A friend of mine uses a 5 1/2 and that too has the heft needed. johnjoiner uses the #7. That fits the bill too! Size of the plane really depends on the work, though a larger plane can handle a much wider range of stock than a smaller one.

Good luck!

Here’s another couple LJ shooting board contributions…

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/3003

And Mot’s VIDEO:

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/boboswin/blog/3407

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA