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Forum topic by SawdustTX posted 03-13-2012 05:09 AM 3172 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SawdustTX

240 posts in 1791 days


03-13-2012 05:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: router table router lift router

I scored a Delta Platinum Unisaw off CL a couple weeks ago (that’s one dream tool finally acquired!), so now I need to mount my router in the side extension. After 20 years using a homemade router mount in my old tablesaw, and raising/lowering from underneath, I sprung for a WoodPeckers Sidewinder lift. Can’t wait to use it, so I have two design questions:

1. How wide should the rabbet lip for the router plate be? Amazingly the WoodPeckers instructions don’t say! Looks like somewhere between 1/2” and 3/4” Anyone know for sure?

2. How far from the center of the router bit to the miter slot? From pictures, most look to be around 4-8” away from the centerline of the bit. Is there a standard?

My router plate will be back about a foot from the edge of the of the tablesaw extension. Would prefer a little close to the edge, but that spacing fits between the extension tabletop support rails.

Thanks for any advice, and thanks even more for any “learned by experience” lessons!
SawdustTX


9 replies so far

View dubsaloon's profile

dubsaloon

621 posts in 2261 days


#1 posted 03-13-2012 10:21 AM

You poor guy! This dilemma is so close to my heart. Do you have a miter slot to install at the end of the table so you can run end grain using a sled? I set my slot about 6” from the edge and the leading edge of the router hole about 3” from the slot. you might want to reinforce the table underneath as the routing of a hole and a slot might make it prone to sag. God’s grace upon you.

-- The works of evil people are not the problem. It is the "Good" people standing by and watching not speaking up. Dubsaloon

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1061 posts in 3080 days


#2 posted 03-13-2012 11:26 AM

The router plate is 3/8” thick; I wouldn’t go any less that 3/8” on the lip. You can, of course make it any size you want when cutting the through hole after routing the lip for the router plate. You just have to be able to fit the router and lift mechanism through the hole.

My RouterLift 420 had leveling screws that protruded from the bottom of the plate. I ended up inletting small pieces of hardwood for the leveling screws to rest on for fear that the leveling screws would crush the MDF core and require constant re-leveling.

I have a dedicated router table. The router plate was centered in the router table (front-to-back and side-to-side). If I ever redo it, I might move the router plate further from the front edge to allow more table space in front of the router for better stability for wider pieces. Depth behind the router is only useful for routing dadoes in the middle of wide boards. You won’t have that problem with the table saw setup (if you are using the saw fence) since you have so much fence travel behind the router.

My miter slot is only about 6” from the edge of the slot to the bit center. This gives stability using a miter gauge with smaller pieces on edge routing. Your mileage may vary. I don’t use the miter slot much and I have seen other designs where they opted for no miter slot at all.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


#3 posted 03-13-2012 12:37 PM

oh yes. very nice. I don’t think there is any “standard”. I could be wrong. I think you can make the rabbit/lip as wide as you like, just as long as your plate will be flush at the end of the day. I’ve got a home-made one in my table saw table as well. I look forward to the day when I re-do mine also.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2820 days


#4 posted 03-13-2012 01:25 PM

I did the same thing to my Unisaw, you can see a pictorial here although I made a new table, after years of use the original Delta supplied table started to warp. If you like I can take measurements this evening.

I would make the lip as wide as you can even if it you have to notch it in spots for the lift to drop in, I did that on my first table.

And nice score.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View SawdustTX's profile

SawdustTX

240 posts in 1791 days


#5 posted 03-13-2012 10:59 PM

Thanks for the advice all.

DubSaloon – I will be adding cross supports under the tabletop to protect against warping.

EEngineer – I have the thickness, it was the lip width I was after. I like your idea of adding hardwood for the leveling screws to rest on – I’m thinking of inlaying some little aluminum squares cut from 1/8 flat stock.

Roger – good point on making it as wide as possible. I did tear into the parts and found there are two clamp blocks that will only span a 1/2” lip, so I’m going to make the lip wide, but have notches at those two spots for the clamp blocks.

Blankman – your online pics were super helpful! Thank you! What a great setup you built. I’ll be stealing a number of your process solutions.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2820 days


#6 posted 03-14-2012 01:05 PM

Sawdust, thanks and take pictures, always interesting to see others process and results, like you said, one can always pick up something.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View crashn's profile

crashn

528 posts in 1932 days


#7 posted 03-15-2012 01:11 AM

In regards to question number 2, I have the same lift and here are some pics

As you can see, from the center of the bit to the edge of the slot is about 5 1/4. I have the peachtree cast iron table wing router table mounted to my Grizzly G0715p. I had to re-drill some holes in the extension wing, but its a good fit. Works great, love having it there, but am also making a dedicated router table in the near future.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View SawdustTX's profile

SawdustTX

240 posts in 1791 days


#8 posted 03-15-2012 05:02 AM

Thanks Crashn. It’s motivating to see one installed. Can’t wait. I’m figuring out how to precisely cut out the opening to match the plate, hope to install this weekend!

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crashn

528 posts in 1932 days


#9 posted 03-15-2012 06:21 AM

I like the lift a lot. I like the ability to adjust the height from the side, with the piece on the table, instead of having to remove it and use a rod through the top. You can also up-plunge, which is a nice feature.

the depth of the rabbit is just a hair over 3/8, the thickness of the plate, so that the leveling screws can bring it back to level with the top.

What am I doing up at 2:20 in the AM (east coast)? Baby decided it was a good time for a bottle. 3 weeks till he’s one. Sometimes he sleeps through the night, others he decides some grub would be nice.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

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