|Forum topic by CaseyJones||posted 767 days ago||2404 views||0 times favorited||5 replies|
767 days ago
Does anyone have any advice on dealing with this issue? I’m assuming it’s pretty common, but I’m a novice. I bought a real nice 2” thick Black Walnut live edge crotch slab to make a desk out of. It had been kiln dried but I don’t have a moisture meter to verify MC. It’s been in my house over the winter while I’ve dealt with making the base (metal). I haven’t had much time, and there’s a learning curve with metal fab for me so it’s been there a couple months. It’s been laying flat on saw horses at the eventual height of the table so I can play around with the legs and how they look. I heat with wood and the room is small so it’s likely pretty dry in there. One end of the slab has about 1/2”-3/4” worth of cupping going on now that I’m ready to put the legs on.
My questions are:
Is there a way to remove this cup by introducing moisture back into the wood, and stickering it with a lot of weight on top? Or some other trick I don’t know of? I’d prefer not to sand or plane any more away because it’s pretty much at finished thickness now.
Also, I’m bolting on the metal bases, using threaded inserts in the wood. Do I need to drill out the holes in the metal significantly wider than the bolts to allow the bolts to move side to side with possible expansion and contraction of the wood or is this a non-issue with metal legs? To clarify, the legs are big, solid chunks of C-channel (like half of an i-beam) that will span most of the width of the board and be fastened in on both edges and the middle.
I plan to use multiple coats of Waterlox to finish it on all sides. The slab has some of the most vivid purple color I’ve ever seen and I’d like to preserve that if possible….I was wondering if there are any considerations on using a tung based wiping varnish on walnut and losing some of that purple color to yellowing? Any better suggestions? I don’t have a spray rig.