Wood I joist- how to hang heavy air filter

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Forum topic by Michigander posted 03-11-2012 06:12 PM 6119 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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220 posts in 2595 days

03-11-2012 06:12 PM

Hi all, I need some advise on how to best hang a large (75 pound) air filter in my basement. The first floor has engineered wood I beam joists on 16” centers. I want to hang my filter from the joists but there is very little wood to attach a hook to. I am considering adding a piece of 3/4” plywood between the beams per the sketch below. the I beam wood blocks are only 1 1/2” square leaving a 1/2” lip for the hanger board to sit on. Is this method OK or is there another better way to do it.

14 replies so far

View Michigander's profile


220 posts in 2595 days

#1 posted 03-11-2012 06:14 PM

View higtron's profile


243 posts in 2853 days

#2 posted 03-11-2012 06:55 PM

That would work just fine, or you could just cut some 2×4’s to span across from lip to lip and screw them through the webing of the TJI’s the only reason I say this is 2×4’s are pretty cheap-plywood not so much.

-- A friend will help you move, a good friend will help you move a body

View JJohnston's profile


1622 posts in 3467 days

#3 posted 03-11-2012 07:16 PM

Where in relation to the span of the joists are you planning on this? I mean, near the end, or more toward the middle? This will dictate where it’s safe to drill into the web.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View MrRon's profile


5141 posts in 3419 days

#4 posted 03-11-2012 07:37 PM

The 2×4’s will work fine. There is only 19# weight on each support. Once in place, just drive a drywall screw in each end. Remember you have to tip the 2×4 to get it in place, so it will have to be cut a little shorter than the distance between the joist webs; approximately 3/64” less.

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2851 days

#5 posted 03-11-2012 07:51 PM

Any screws through the web would be to hold the 2×4’s in place. They wouldn’t support weight anyway. If the drilled holes are completely filled it shouldn’t matter. Hole the size of utility screws shouldn’t matter either.

View Michigander's profile


220 posts in 2595 days

#6 posted 03-11-2012 08:09 PM

Thanks for the input guys. Yea it makes more sense to use 2×4 to span the space. A couple of screws to hold the 2×4 in place should make a good anchor.
Do you have any recommendations on placement of the air cleaner for optomum filtering? My shop is 15’ wide by 30’ long. My table saw and router table are located at one end, so I was thinking to place the filter right above those and have the exhaust point towards the wall. In other words the filter draws air from the long end of the room and exhausts it towards the short end. Make sense?
Thanks, John

View HerbC's profile


1790 posts in 3035 days

#7 posted 03-11-2012 11:36 PM

Place close to wall, with air flow parallel to wall, in middle of long side of room. Object is to create a circulation pattern around the room…


-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!"

View Trapshter's profile


64 posts in 2570 days

#8 posted 03-11-2012 11:43 PM

I second herb

-- Smile and wave boys just smile and wave

View jmos's profile


892 posts in 2545 days

#9 posted 03-12-2012 01:35 AM

You’re over thinking it. As MrRon said, the weight per corner is not that high. I have the exact same joist arrangement in my basement; I just took 4 eye bolts with wood screw ends (probably 3/8”) and ran them straight up into the beam (piloted holes of course), then used standard weight S-hooks to connect some light weight chain from the top of the air filter to the eye bolt. No problems and rock solid.

Per corner, it’s really in line with the weight of a bike, and you probably wouldn’t think twice about running a bike hook up into the beam (which I’ve also done with no issues.)

-- John

View Michigander's profile


220 posts in 2595 days

#10 posted 03-12-2012 03:54 PM

HerbC, thanks, that’s what I needed to know. I appreciate all of your input.
Best Regards,

View KenBry's profile


484 posts in 2623 days

#11 posted 03-12-2012 04:05 PM

Like jmos said, weight gets dispersed with the more hangers you use. I used 4 points and it worked well. Just get someone to help you hang that sucker, I put mine up by my self and it was a royal PITA.

-- Ken, USAF MSgt, Ret.

View JohnMeeley's profile


255 posts in 2508 days

#12 posted 03-12-2012 06:06 PM

not that it really matters In a four point rigging system, only three points will carry the load at any given point in time.

Yes, it is true.

I would be more concerned with isolation to reduce noise transfer to upstairs.

-- "The greatest pleasure in life is doing what others say you cannot do."-Walter Bagehot

View jonmulzer's profile


48 posts in 2841 days

#13 posted 03-12-2012 06:54 PM

That is not absolutely true. 4 point systems can evenly disperse the load. It just depends. In properly designed and implemented systems the load will be evenly distributed. Not that it matters for these purposes. You could hang it from two points and it would be fine.

View devann's profile


2246 posts in 2868 days

#14 posted 03-12-2012 09:25 PM

From what I can tell from your drawing you have TJI silent floor joist. It appears that you’re planning to lay the board that you want to hang from to on a glue joint. I’m not so sure that I would want to do that. TJIs are made with a pair of laminated 2xs, dadoed and the OSB glued between them.

Even if you substituted the “skinny board” you have drawn for a 2x, you are still near the edge of the 1/2” OSB for a fastener.

If you look a little closer at the OSB you’ll notice some prepunched hole knockouts for the electrician to route his romex. I’d consider knocking out a couple holes and using a pipe to hang from or a 2x that’s closer to the center of the height of the joist.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

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