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Power Kraft Model TPC 2610-B Radial Arm Saw

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Forum topic by bruc101 posted 03-07-2012 03:01 AM 15399 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bruc101

1237 posts in 3658 days


03-07-2012 03:01 AM

Hi everyone. I was recently given still in the box never opened a Power Kraft Radial Arm Saw by a friend that inherited it from his uncle…and just found it in a basement. His uncle bought the saw in the 60’s brand new from Montgomery Ward.

I didn’t need the saw but could not turn it down. I thought it was awesome for a friend to give me something he had inherited.

I made a stand for the saw and put the saw together and it runs and cuts like a charm. The only plastic I can find on it is the safety lock. My question is, I can’t get the arm to swing left or right. I took the arm apart, cleaned it and everything seemed to be working on it but it still won’t swing left or right.

Anyone got one of these saws and could help me out with getting the arm to swing?

Thanks in advance

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org


14 replies so far

View Ben's profile

Ben

302 posts in 2447 days


#1 posted 03-07-2012 03:10 AM

I have a Power Kraft that needs some work, It has a lot of play when it is locked at 90. I haven’t had the time to tear it down to see if it’s repairable. Pretty amazing find you have there. a 60’s saw still in the box… WOW. I think mine is a mid 70’s model. You should have a great tool there, good luck and enjoy!

-- Welcome to downtown Coolsville, Population: US! --Hogarth Hughes

View rlrobinhood's profile

rlrobinhood

80 posts in 2763 days


#2 posted 03-07-2012 03:51 AM

It should have a T-handle on the front of the arm. Pull it (and hold) and it disengages a lock via a rod that goes back to the elevation post. Then simply push the arm to whcih ever side you want.

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bruc101

1237 posts in 3658 days


#3 posted 03-07-2012 02:53 PM

Thanks guys for your replies. Holding the T-handle out still won’t let the arm swing. It acts like it was made not to swing.

Ben, do you need a copy of the manual for the saw? If you need parts they may still be available here:
http://www.toolkraft.com/

And you might ask someone here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657&tab=4

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

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Ben

302 posts in 2447 days


#4 posted 03-08-2012 02:46 AM

I’ve been at vintage machinery checking out a few tools I have. Just hasn’t been priority enough to make the time to get them running. I’ll end up needing something on a project that I’ll need one, then it will provoke me to do something with them. Thanks for the heads up on the Toolkraft site

-- Welcome to downtown Coolsville, Population: US! --Hogarth Hughes

View rlrobinhood's profile

rlrobinhood

80 posts in 2763 days


#5 posted 03-08-2012 04:34 AM

It definately is made to swing. The T-handle linkage rod may be out of adjustment. Just inside the arm, from the underside is a little wheel which you can spind to adjust one way or the other. Another possibility isthe rod is no longer connected. If this is the case, its best to take it apart and look at it. Its too hard to describe in words, but when you get it apart, it will make sense.

View Cobijones's profile

Cobijones

5 posts in 2373 days


#6 posted 03-22-2012 11:07 PM

I removed the chuck from a porter cable router and it fits perfectly on the 20,000 rpm arbor. I will try it out tonight and let you all know how it works but this gives me the option of 1/4 or 1/2 in router bits as well as 1/2 in arbors for shaper cutters. As for the 3500rpm arbor any drill chuck will fit.

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bruc101

1237 posts in 3658 days


#7 posted 03-23-2012 02:54 AM

It definately is made to swing. The T-handle linkage rod may be out of adjustment. Just inside the arm, from the underside is a little wheel which you can spind to adjust one way or the other. Another possibility isthe rod is no longer connected. If this is the case, its best to take it apart and look at it. Its too hard to describe in words, but when you get it apart, it will make sense.

Thanks for your response and info. Several weeks ago we took the arm apart and the best I can remember the rod was loose on the back end. Everything else look normal according to the drawings. I’ll try to look a it again tomorrow and if I can remember I’ll take a photo for you.

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

View Railroadray's profile

Railroadray

3 posts in 1867 days


#8 posted 08-10-2013 06:31 PM

I have this saw and to swing the arm swing the “D” lock down and pull the T handle, it should swing free. The T handle locks the arm at 90 and 45. if the arm is sloppy the screw in the lower back needs to be adjusted very simple.

I have just joined and this issue may have been resolved.

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OldButcher

4 posts in 1316 days


#9 posted 02-12-2015 08:53 PM

I had this saw in the early 70’s so when my recently purchased saw wouldn’t clamp using the “D” lock down, I took it apart. Simple fix – but you have to take it apart to understand the clamp feature. My ‘new’ saw had so many more adjustment issues I couldn’t believe the former owners ever used it. The tilt lever had been over-tightened so far that it seated the ball bearing. I had to replace the bearing with one slightly larger to get the unit to tilt.
I do have the original manual plus there are manuals online so making adjustments. I’m not an expert but each time I run into something it takes me back a few years. I so loved this saw with its 20K RPM motor.
I’m looking for a 15/16” arbor wrench (currently using a router wrench), a drill chuck, and a ½” router collet.
While this machine is a little loud, it is so easy to set up and is reasonably accurate. (I did hundreds of picture frames on it.) I have YouTube videos already for a blade sharpening jig you can make. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92YLavzbjGA

I’m online 24/7 for a variety of projects and try to answer all responses within 8 hours. jimdahlberg2002@yahoo.com

View Harley Rhodes's profile

Harley Rhodes

3 posts in 93 days


#10 posted 06-19-2018 07:24 PM

Hi. I know this is years after the original post, but wanted to know if you could provide the measurements of the original table. The instructions list the measurements of the two back boards but one can only guess on the main board. Thanks in advance.

View Railroadray's profile

Railroadray

3 posts in 1867 days


#11 posted 06-20-2018 12:03 AM

My table has been replaces once, but I checked and it is 17-3/8 by 38-17/16. The 17-3/8 had to be close as the crank to lift the saw head is close. Hope this helps.

Ray

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Harley Rhodes

3 posts in 93 days


#12 posted 06-20-2018 05:30 AM

Thanks for the reply Ray but to clarify did you mean 38 and 16/17? I just got one of these and wanted to make a table for it. It currently has a 40 wide by 17 3/8 table. By the way how tall is your fence above the table? And these measurements of yours are based off the original table?

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Railroadray

3 posts in 1867 days


#13 posted 06-20-2018 10:31 AM

No, 15/16. Long day, it can be as wide as you want as long as it can be adjusted flat. I have two or three fences I use depending as to what I am doing, from 1/4 inch above the table for rabbits up to 2 inches for rip cuts, you can make them to work for your cut. Yes they are from the original table. Do you have or find a manual ?

View Harley Rhodes's profile

Harley Rhodes

3 posts in 93 days


#14 posted 06-20-2018 08:20 PM

The manual came with mine. I bought it at an estate sale and the owner took good care of it. The manual says the the two other boards are 5 5/8 and 2 15/16 so I thought it would be fun to restore the table to factory size. I do plan on making a mr sawdust table. I’ve searched for quite a while to find someone who knows the original dimensions. I have wondered why the manufacture chose such odd dimensions. Thanks for the help. I may post an image(s) of the project once done now that I have joined this forum. Although I think I will keep the width 40”

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