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Forum topic by pjones46 posted 03-06-2012 12:23 AM 9650 views 1 time favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pjones46

986 posts in 2110 days


03-06-2012 12:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question joining modern traditional

For a number of months I have been looking for plans for a Saddle Seat Bar stool without any success until last night. Found a reprint of American Woodworker from April 1996 for the below:

I am going to use it with some exception, converting to a saddle seat and leaning toward using mortise and tenons vs floating tenons.

My question; Has any one done one of these and which method did you use and why? I have all the equipment to do either, but am guessing that floating tenons may not be as strong.

-- Respectfully, Paul


3 replies so far

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MrRon

3927 posts in 2711 days


#1 posted 03-06-2012 05:10 PM

By floating tenon, do you mean “loose tenon”? If so That’s what I would use. Reason; the stretchers being angled at the ends where they meet the legs will be easier to make. You will probably be using a disc sander to get the angled ends just right.; a lot easier to do if a tenon is not sticking out. Either one is just as strong.

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DIYaholic

19180 posts in 2142 days


#2 posted 03-06-2012 06:40 PM

I’m sorry but I really can’t help you. I’m a newbie. But when I saw the title I had to see for myself. I pictured something totally different. I appologies for the “Fluff”.

I stayed at the White Stallion Ranch in Tuscon, AZ, several years ago. I was there as a guest for “The Marlboro Ranch Party”. RJ Renolds paid for every thing. Here is a picture of what I envisioned by reading your title.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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pjones46

986 posts in 2110 days


#3 posted 03-07-2012 12:13 AM

Randy…looks like a great bar but not what woodworkers think of as saddle seat stools in the Northeast.

Anyway, Mr. Ron, some people call “loose tenon” by “floating tenon”, however, for the legs I plan to compound cut them both top and bottom so that a minimum of adjustment sanding is need, 5 degree cuts or 85 degree cuts if you prefer. Just have to keep my wits about me when I start mortising so the angles are correct during assembly.

Thanks you both for your input.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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