Best low friction surface for table saw extention table

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Forum topic by vern posted 04-25-2007 11:59 PM 5645 views 1 time favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1 post in 3466 days

04-25-2007 11:59 PM

I want to building an extention for my table saw what is the best low friction surface? Thnaks for your help.

16 replies so far

View markrules's profile


146 posts in 3532 days

#1 posted 04-26-2007 02:02 AM


Virtually no friction whatsoever.

The trick is to get it to stay on the table. Very tricky.

View Karson's profile


35032 posts in 3818 days

#2 posted 04-26-2007 02:43 AM

Clean Cast iron with wax. Or formica over MDF if you don’t have cast iron.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View BassBully's profile


261 posts in 3514 days

#3 posted 04-26-2007 03:13 AM

Formica veneer over whatever substrate you choose.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

View Nicky's profile


695 posts in 3509 days

#4 posted 04-26-2007 03:23 AM

Formica or any non-textured plastic laminate, or how about melamine?

-- Nicky

View USCJeff's profile


1062 posts in 3485 days

#5 posted 04-26-2007 03:57 AM

I’m also doing this currently, Vern. I’m removing a cast iron wing on my Grizzly 1023 and building a router extension. I have the plate and hardware, just debating on what surface to use. Seems like Formica is the consensus. I’d like to add a hinged outfeed table in the future. So many projects, so little shop time.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View woodspar's profile


710 posts in 3517 days

#6 posted 04-26-2007 05:24 AM

Also there is something called phenolic plywood that you can buy from Woodcraft. I read about it in ShopNotes vol 15 issue 87. I have been meaning to check this out for making jigs and a router table top and maybe even a table saw support (surround) surface. Anybody tried it?

-- John

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1768 posts in 3507 days

#7 posted 04-26-2007 05:38 AM

Melamine works fine. There’s a balance between friction and slick. How slick do you really need? Just enough so it doesn’t bind. Melamine is cheap, glue cleans off it, and you can wirite on it.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke."

View jpw1995's profile


376 posts in 3715 days

#8 posted 04-26-2007 04:50 PM

If you check out Niki’s posts you’ll see that he uses engineered flooring for his router table.

-- JP, Louisville, KY

View cafex's profile


2 posts in 246 days

#9 posted 02-18-2016 03:56 AM

I have a badly pitted cast iron table on my band saw. I had a thought of laminating it with formica.
Any thoughts? any body done this? will the glue hold? Thanks

View MrUnix's profile


4020 posts in 1616 days

#10 posted 02-18-2016 04:04 AM

Any thoughts?
- cafex

Yeah, how about instead of reviving a thread from 9 years ago about a completely different topic, you start your own, specific to your question?


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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5672 posts in 903 days

#11 posted 02-18-2016 04:07 AM


-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View USAwoodArt's profile


234 posts in 359 days

#12 posted 02-18-2016 04:40 AM

I use a uhmw top on my outfeed table that is great…extremely low friction, never needs waxing and whenever glue dries on it I can peel it off easily

-- Wood for projects is like a good Fart..."better when you cut it yourself"

View rwe2156's profile


2110 posts in 898 days

#13 posted 02-18-2016 12:25 PM

I use a product called Panolam from my supplier.

A piece of natural stone countertop will also work.

Actually anything will work there won’t be that much friction with sanded ply or hardboard either.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View HokieKen's profile (online now)


1516 posts in 556 days

#14 posted 02-18-2016 12:34 PM

I used formica on my drill press table and router table and even on my crosscut sled. I love it and think it would make a great surface for a bandsaw table. I would think it would adhere to cast iron just fine with contact adhesive. Just make sure there is no active oxidation going on. I would use phosphoric acid or some type of rust converter prior to laminating. Then, make sure the table’s flat and clean it with something just prior to laminating to be certain there is no grease or contaminants.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View cafex's profile


2 posts in 246 days

#15 posted 02-18-2016 01:47 PM

Thanks every one for the input. I will give it a try and post the results. Good day.

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