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Forum topic by andy81563 posted 03-02-2012 10:08 PM 2286 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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andy81563

22 posts in 1039 days


03-02-2012 10:08 PM

So, I thought I got a pretty good deal on a used PW table saw. It still may turn out to be, however, it appears as though there were some abuses. See the screwed up threads on the arbor. What is the best way of getting this fixed? Can I re-cut the threads or do i just need a new arbor?


20 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7832 posts in 2403 days


#1 posted 03-02-2012 10:14 PM

Get a file the right width and work on it by hand. You be able
to recondition it enough to get the nut to travel. I did this
myself on a lathe spindle once. It already had the right number
of threads per inch for modern faceplates, but the spindle was
too big by 1/8” or so.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View rkober's profile

rkober

137 posts in 1047 days


#2 posted 03-02-2012 10:47 PM

I think a die would be your best bet for chasing the threads. However nothing you do now will put material back on which may ultimately force you to replace it. Unfortunately an arbor nut must be used often so getting it to barely hold won’t work. Machine shops can weld up the shaft and cut new threads but I would think that would be a lot more expensive that getting a replacement shaft.

-- Ray - Spokane, WA - “Most people don’t recognize opportunity because it’s usually disguised as hard work.” - Unknown

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1823 days


#3 posted 03-02-2012 11:33 PM

Another vote for using a die to chase the threads – if you can keep the arbor from turning as you use the die.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Viktor's profile

Viktor

448 posts in 2174 days


#4 posted 03-03-2012 12:09 AM

After doing what posts #1-3 suggested you may want to get a new nut. Chances are the nut is in the same condition as the shaft. Having new nut on cleaned shaft will work better.

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1678 days


#5 posted 03-03-2012 12:25 AM

I think I’d replace the arbor. Better safe than sorry.

-- Life is good.

View WoodKutter's profile

WoodKutter

29 posts in 2222 days


#6 posted 03-03-2012 01:42 AM

Hi Andy,

That doesn’t look like a standard vee thread shaft. It’s hard to tell from the picture but it may be acme thread in which case the top of the thread would be flat. Look at the root of the thread groove and see if it is flat. If so it is not damaged it was made that way. I am not familiar with PM machines so I don’t know how their shafts are suppose to look. Does the nut turn on and off easily? Is it smooth turning on the shaft? From looking at the shaft past the threads, it looks the same size. Also look at the nut. If the tops of the threads are flat in there also you may be OK.

Gary S

View Kenny 's profile

Kenny

260 posts in 1203 days


#7 posted 03-03-2012 02:18 AM

If the threads are damaged in any way, REPLACE IT!!!

Think about this: You run your hand beside a 10” blade spinning at 3600rpm and attached to THAT SAME ARBOR ! Do you really want to trust something that isn’t 100% when it could mean your hand/fingers being mangled/amputated?

If it ends up it’s OK, (picture isn’t clear to me), that’s different. But if the threads are damaged and not proper height, REPLACE IT, no question about it.

I don’t know the value you put on your hands, but I tend to like mine. Your opinion may differ, in which case, run it! (kidding)

-- Kenny

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Grandpa

3213 posts in 1430 days


#8 posted 03-03-2012 03:40 AM

We really can’t tell much about the threads from the photo. We are guessing at what might work. I really looks like the arbor gets smaller as you move toward the left in the photo. As rkober said, working on the threads will not add material back. I wouldn’t be afraid to turn the saw on because I think the threads on the end of the arbor are tall enough to hold the nut. The problem you will experience is the shaft is now too small to properly center the blade or dado. This will give an eccentric effect and you will have poor cuts and vibration. I think I would look at a new arbor and nut. When you weld you get things hot enough you might worry about the heat treat of the part. That can cause things get too soft and bend or sometimes it gets too hard and shatters. Sometimes you can get good deals on eBay. I was amazed at the number of thing available for tables saws on there.

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1285 posts in 1753 days


#9 posted 03-03-2012 04:13 AM

They will be left hand acme threads. You are going to have a hard time getting a tap to chase it. See about replacing.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View Scot's profile

Scot

344 posts in 2151 days


#10 posted 03-03-2012 04:34 AM

new arbor….too much metal gone

-- If the old masters had power tools, they would have used them. So get off your damn High Horse.

View joebloe's profile

joebloe

157 posts in 1049 days


#11 posted 03-04-2012 12:08 AM

The threads at the bottom look stripped to me,hard to say from a photo ,I agree with Kenny when in doubt replace the arbor.they haven’t out how to replace fingers yet.

View andy81563's profile

andy81563

22 posts in 1039 days


#12 posted 03-04-2012 12:25 AM

Replacing the arbor seems to be the answer. Now, to find one that costs less than $125. Anyone know where to find a model 66 parts saw where I could get a good, used arbor?

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andy81563

22 posts in 1039 days


#13 posted 03-04-2012 12:28 AM

By the way, these PM saws have a 5/8” arbor with right hand acme threads.

View WrathOfSocrus's profile

WrathOfSocrus

22 posts in 1207 days


#14 posted 03-04-2012 02:02 AM

I don’t know about this particular saw, and it is a bit hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like there is supposed to be a washer/spacer that goes on after you install the blade. Years of use would show wear but the threads have to go down inside the washer in order for the nut to tighten. If the threads didn’t go down inside there then the nut would bottom out before tightening the blade.

I could be way off base but all saws I have used have the setup described above.

-- "To do is to learn. A brilliant man once said that... I think he had a beard, too." - Joe Burns, HTML Goodies

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andy81563

22 posts in 1039 days


#15 posted 03-08-2012 03:25 AM

I have ordered a new arbor assembly to replace the trashed one. I need to clean rust and grind marks on the working surface of the table. What should I use to clean the rust and how to work the scratches out?

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