First Hand Plane Ideas

if you only can only afford one hand plane i would go with a nice number 4. they are great all around.

-- Roper - master of sawdust-

I can’t argue with any of these choices. They are all great for their functions. I wouldn’t go with the order of purchase, myself. I’m doing the same brainstorming you are at the moment. I’m with Roper in that the #4 is widely considered the most versatile. It’s middle of the range size, allows it to get the best of both ends somewhat. It own’t hog away lumber like a scrub, or edge plane like a LA Block, but it gets the job done. So far, a new Bailey #4 is my only “nice” plane. I got many cheap ones that get my ok with better blades. If I had to guess what I use the most, it would probably be the #4 to remove machine marks, a long jointer for precision facing/edging, and a block plane for end grain and chamfers.

Since smoothing is your stated need, I’d start with a 4 or 5. A scraper plane is great for big things, but I’ve managed to get by with a card scraper in a holder. They do the same thing, but the scraper plane gets it done more efficiently. There is of course the $100+ difference in costs to consider. I absolutely wouldn’t go for the scraper if you haven’t tried a card scraper.

On the other hand, the big investment is for a tool that literally could last generations if taken care of. The $200 planes aren’t so expensive in that light. What power tool can you get that stands the test of time?

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I agree with Roper. The low angle plane is a nice choice too. I wouldn’t even put the scraper on the list of first planes to buy. I think you can do just as good with a card scraper.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

thanks for the help. it looks like the #4 would be the best choice. i’ll wait to hear some other opinions though. i really only put the scraper up there because it was under smoothers but i think that i’ll look into the #4.

#4

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I’m not quite sure why you feel you need to buy a new
plane, but for general smoothing a #4 is a good choice.

I’d just go on Ebay and buy an old Stanley Bailey
for $10. You can get some waterstones too and then
you’ll not only have a plane, you’ll have a sharpening
method that can give you razor sharp irons.

Reviving and tuning old planes is a lot of fun and
you can often get really fine working tools for
not much money this way.

It’s also not hard to make your own planes. If you
haven’t read any of James Krenov’s books I recommend
you do. They are awesome and may cause you to
fall in love with the idea of making your own tools.

Also Japanese pull planes are really fun to use and
produce amazing results.

Aside from weight and sharpness good smoothing can
be achieved with speed and pressure. With wooden
pull-planes the pressure and speed “enliven” the wood
fibers, increasing their “chatoyance”, the prism like
quality hand-planed wood sometimes has, especially
noticeable with softwoods.

-- Need help with marketing your business? Look in my profile.

thanks for the help loren. my parents are a little skeptical about ebay so thats why i can’t really take that option but i think that i might look into making my own.

I’d second what Loren said – Go for an old Stanley #4 on eBay.

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

Okay I’ll bite and cast a vote for a #7 size low angle jointer. The Veritas is a honey and I’ll probably throw down for one someday. Maybe when I wear mine out. HA!!! I use mine for for all sorts of work. Keep two blades with different grinds and you’ll be set for getting a lot of work done. And I’m convinced that the low angle version with its adjustable throat will be even more versatile. The mass of the plane while heavy seems to do a lot of the arm work for you. Just sharpen it up enough to shave with [if you’re shaving yet] and git-r-done!

Ultimately what you choose should be immediately useful in the work you’re doing AND the work you aspire to do. Build your collection from there. Besides, soon enough whichever you choose now will lead you to another… then another… kind of like beer on a hot summer night. Dang, I’m gettin’ thirsty.

always,
J.C.

-- "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -- Albert Einstein

i would but the only problem is i have no way to get it off of ebay. my parents won’t order off of ebay and i have no other way to get one.

Make your own. It is not hard to do.

-- Zipsss

If I were in your shoes and couldn’t get to ebay, (and, mind you, I’m not advising you to go against your parents…I’m just saying what I’d do) I’d find a friend to bid and get a Stanley 4 1/2 on ebay. The 4 1/2 is heavier than the 4 and most plane guys prefer the weight for good results. Prices vary from $45 – about $85 and you’ll get every bit the plane as you will by spending more for a new one….But that’s only what I’d do.
How ever it goes… enjoy. -SST

-- You get no points when you punt

Hmmm. What about a block plane? I would give some strong consideration to a low angle block plane (one on left).

Relative to the planes above I would get one of the smoothers (low angle being my choice) or an old Stanley. Also try your local antique malls. They can often be found there. Then I would get a jack plane for rough work (#5) and a jointer plane (#7 or #8).

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

If I had to do it all over again with what I know now my first would be a four and half smoother than followed up with a Number 5 and half jack plane…with that said the number 4 is one of my favorite plane to use. My reason with going with the half sizes is that they cover more ground and have a long base which gives a quicker and flater surface than the 4…good luck with your decision hope this helps…Blkcherry

Also, a great book on making planes is Making and Mastering Wood Planes by David Finck.

http://www.amazon.com/Making-Mastering-Planes-David-Finck/dp/0806961635/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212372996&sr=8-8

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne
Did you look at what that book sells for used it’s like $100.00 according to the back cover it was only $17.00 new. I suppose it is no longer being published. There must be other books?

-- Ed Collinge- Edmonds, WA.

Hmmm. They were about $9.00 when I purchased my copy. They must have just gone out of print. There are two revisions one for about $100 and one for $93. It is a great book, but not sure it is worth that price.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Sssst…., check this out: Making and mastering Wood Planes
there are still deals out there!

-- Mark 6:3 Is not this the carpenter, the son of Mary ...

hmm… i guess that unless i can find a plane somewhere i will probably try to make one.

While I’m not as experienced as most of the folks here I recently went through the same decisions that you are going through now. My first plane was a Stanley #4, off of ebay, in hindsight I wish I would have saved my pennies and purchased a Veritas. I didn’t know what to look for, or much about what was wanted in a “user” plane.

Once that plane was tuned up I realized I needed a block plane. Rather then going Ebay, I purchased a new Stanley. I thought I was being clever on that one, not realizing the quality isn’t there and I spent just as much time with it. But now it works great.

My third plane I’m still waiting to receive, it is a #7 Jointer plane, again off of Ebay. I’ll let you know how this one goes once I get. :)

I debated making my own plane but I didn’t feel comfortable doing so. I was looking at the beginner plane in the Japan Woodworker Catalog, but passed on that as well. If it were a year ago, I would have purchased the #4 Veritas, a Veritas Low Angle Block Plane WayneC mentions, and then the Veritas Low Angle Jointer that Jcees mentions.

I’d love Lie Nielsen planes, but there is something intimidating and exciting about a tool that is far beyond your abilities and skills to truly appreciate.

Once you have the biggest, medium, and smallest you’ll be in a position to know if and when you need additional planes. I’m not to the point where I coud say a #4 is preferable to a 4 1/2 for a certain situation, so I don’t have one. Yet.

I’d also keep your eye on your local paper for garage sales, or find someone who goes to alot of them to keep an eye peeled for you.

Good luck!

-- Casey, Engineer, Escanaba, MI

Just got my 1st plane 6months ago. A New #4 Stanly Contractor after putting some time and elbo grease in to the blade and the sole it does a wonderful job for not a lot of money. But make sure it is the English made contractor version not the Mexican made one.

I do have a couple of LN card scrapers that I like a lot to keep me from sanding. And I long for a #7 Jointer.

What kinda wood are you planing on planeing? (say that 3x fast) I am having a hard time planing quarter sawn red oak with my #4. But that may just be me.

-- ~jtd

i think i might go with a low angle because i am making a sugar chest in a month or two and i want to get a hand planed look on it. it is out of pine so i shouldn’t have much problems. really all i want one for is smoothing. no really heavy duty or hard work

hey jtd, i also find that certain figured pieces of wood are harder to get a good cut with my 4 so i purchased a 4 1/2 and it is great .

-- Roper - master of sawdust-

You should gently educate your parents on Ebay. I’m not sure what they’re so leary about. Outside of the limited hands on potential prior to buying, using Paypal or other service to pay gives you good protection.

If I couldn’t use ebay I wouldn’t have half my tools. I definitly wouldn’t have any planes. #3, #4, #7 (non Stanley), and #60 1/2.

All vintage, all great deals, all (and I do mean all) for less than 1 Veritas #4

I like the 4 or 4 1/2 comments and I also like the bevel up ideas. Many of the lee valley planes have different blades available that will allow you to get a steep cutting angle, so a bevel up with a couple different blades would be a wonderful investment and could serve many purposes. I have the Veritas BU jointer and the fence attatchment which I love, but if I were to come up with a order in which I would buy again I think I would go with a nice high quality block plane, LN or veritas…a nice 4 or 4 1/2 ebay or flea market, keep your eye out for a fluted sole…. A good mid-sized shoulder plane Clifton, LN or perhaps the Veritas( looks neat, but I haven’t personally used one) Then the bevel up jointer, kinda spendy but I am amazed at how often I use this plane with the fence. your cabinet scrapers will become your best friend, and although I am not a name brand junkie the more expensive brands do seem to be a better steel and they take a much sharper/smoother burr. I got a12 pack from some where I can’t remember, but they just aren’t very good steel.( now also a good source of steel to make up your own card scrapers, is the steel used in some of the better Japanese pull saws, so don’t throw them away) maybe give alittle more thought into making couple planes of your own…I have several and they are daily users another neat thing is that you can make up 2 or 3 bodies for different jobs that will all use the same blade, just varied the bed angles, lengths etc….

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

thanks for the help harold. i think that before i go into buying an expensive plane i will try to make one. then if it works out i can save some money and if not well i didn’t go out and spend 200 dollars or anything.

Another idea would be a Hock plane kit. (Scroll to the bottom)

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/H!WOOD.htm

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

One thing to keep in mind is what you want to do. Do you want to repair a used tool or do woodworking. A lot of folks get a kick out of getting an old plane off e-bay and fixing it up. But its a bit of an art in itself. I have a couple of planes off ebay that work well, but I think I prefer to buy new and buy quality so that I’m not spending my time tinkering.

The number 4 is a good start. It’s quite versatile and if you get several different blades to have different angles ground—- you’ll be well on your way to some fun planing experience.

Good luck!

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

there are so many good ideas that i am not sure what to choose? i think i might just wait until i go up to Maine in the fall and go to LN, but more seriously i can see if i can find any yard sales or flea markets because in the city its so hard to find hand planes and all the flea markets aren’t really good.

LN does make a sweet plane if you can justify the cost.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Going to jump back into this thread. I would give Wayne’s Block Plane thought, some thought. I used the heck out of mine, but suggested the #4 as you are aiming for smoothing. The Blocks are a little more reasonable and have a quicker learning curve than many of its’ big brothers.

I’m all about making planes lately though. I haven’t made one to rival a decent metal one, but it’s a lot of fun and I get a rewarding feeling using them (Still love the power tools though). I picked up “Wooden Planes and How to Make Them”., recently. About $15 delivered from Lee Valley. Very detailed info/plans on about 20 different planes.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I think getting a second hand plane, or a low cost one is a good idea. Once you get one, then you need a good sharpening set up and lots of practice at putting an edge on the blade. It doesn’t matter what plane you get, its only going to be as good as your sharpening skills, so learn these basic skills and that will help you realise what is the best plane for you.