Advice on brush finishing drawers

Jack, I know the big box stores sell water based sprays. Spraying several thin layers and if you take your time and do it right…no drips. Of course, you have to be patient and do several thin layers…that’s usually where I fail…LOL I also hate doing inside drawers because all those inside corners, some folks do the finish before assembly, but in your case you may want some of that poly in those cracks and crevices. It’s definitely one of the hardest aspects of finishing I’ve had to deal with and have failed a few times. Spaying thin coats is where I’ve had the best success, but you have to take your time and do just very thin layers and build it up. Just my two cents.

-- Jim Hallada, Chesterfield, VA

Hi Jack;

It’s as Critterman says, thin coats being built up is always better. Sanding between coats with a very fine scotch brite pad or wet / dry sandpaper will make the final coat smoother.

Drips can easily be cut off with a very sharp chisel, but obviously try to avoid them.

Rubbing out the final coat is the only way I am aware of for a perfect finish.

Lee

P.S. I don’t like it either. (lol)

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Hey Jack,

Those pesky drips are the reason I predominantly use wipe-on poly these days.

-- When you give someone a chance it may well be their last.

I brushed all my cabinets and drawers. Never used water base finishes. I would put one coat of satin poly on and steel wool with 000. I would vacuum and put on second coat. Then I would apply wax with 000 steel wool and wipe off. I finished the inside of my cabinets and drawers the same as I did the outsides.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

I hate drips!

In fact I hate finishing all together.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I agree with Tom and Russel. I have used water poly in the past but have gone back to oil poly. I have brushed and sprayed it predominately but going to a wipe on routine improved my finishing ability markedly, especially on drawers and other vertical surfaces where I used to have problems with runs if I didn’t catch it before it dried.

But as Lee suggested if you find them then shave the dried runs off with a sharp blade or razor and re-coat.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

i just want to put it out there that i’ve never had any drip or run problems with a GOOD wipe on poly or varnish like Arm-r-seal by gereral finishes. just take your time and do thin coats.

If you can handle the smell, use Watco lacquer. It dries really really fast, and you can build 4-5 coats in a day. Brushed, or sprayed.

I personally have never not rubbed out a finish so I don’t know how happy I would be a month after finishing when I looked at it. The Watco rubs out easily though, and in drawers you probably don’t have to worry about it.

Matt

-- The only easy wood project is a fire

I have had good results with wipe-on poly. It does not run as much as brush on poly. The key to all types of finish is multiple thin coats.

-- Depend on the rabbit's foot if you will, but remember it didn't work for the rabbit.

There’s a great example of youth getting it right with teen age woodworker’s reply.I have used the arm r seal finish from General Finishes for about 15 yrs now ,it’s easy,does a great job , my clients love the feel and I can’t say enough about it. Put on and wiped down ,sanded between coats and you will have a wonderful finish with no problems at all for drawers.
It takes a little more doing on a large flat surface like a large tabletop but it is just a matter on techique.

Cowboy

Thanks to everyone for your advise. I have been holding off responding until I have a chance to check the availabilty of wipe-on oil poly in my area but, I haven’t had the chance to get out as yet. I don’t beleive oil-based poly is available in California in either brush-on or wipe-on forms, only the spray can variety. And my experience with spray cans is worse than my experience brushing on WB poly.

Hopefully, I’ll get out his weekend and double-check availability of the wipe-on products. I prefer wipe-on finishes. I have used Waterlox and have been very happy with it. Wipe-on, oil-based poly would be great if I can find it.

Thanks again.

-- Jack - Mission Viejo, Calif

Essentially wipe on poly is diluted brush on variety. Add a little mineral spirits, make a wad of cheesecloth or other clean absorbant cloth and spread it on. Brush marks are non existant. Build with multiple applications with smoothing between coats.

-- Jerry, Wichita KS