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Forum topic by simmers | posted 02-24-2012 05:32 PM | 2916 views | 0 times favorited | 34 replies | ![]() |
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02-24-2012 05:32 PM |
I got laid off from my job 2 months ago, first time in my life. I am attempting to make my hobby of restoring antiques a job. Possible??? Any tips are appreciated. I do not have an air compressor (except a pancake). I need to be able to spray! I can’t afford the big compressor/HVLP conversion gun, etc., unless I find a used compressor. Is the Rockler HVLP spray “system” a good option at $139…..or the Earlex…....or not? Thanks -- simmers |
34 replies so far
#1 posted 02-24-2012 06:03 PM |
I’ve heard good things about the small Earlex unit. Also, keep in mind that you can buy a decent HVLP gun for $50 and use it with your small compressor. This would not be feasible for large jobs like a set of cabinets, but for piece work it is do-able. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
#2 posted 02-24-2012 06:34 PM |
I would buy a dedicated HVLP unit. The power is provided by what is essentially a shop vac motor providing warm dry air. An oil-free pancake compressor will never keep up with the volume of air you need and you will kill it in no time, not to mention that you should have a moisture separator in line with the hose. My HVLP is a Wagner I bought about over a decade ago for around $325, but they have become very affordable and the quality of the cheaper units looks no different than what I bought back then. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy one. |
#3 posted 02-24-2012 06:48 PM |
I have the low cost Earlex and it works great as long as your not trying to shoot something as thick as house paint.I’ve been spraying for 35 years and I was really surprised how well it worked. I think I saw a ad from highland woodworking supply showing a new Earlex model for around $139. I don’t want to be contrary with dhazelton but unless your spraying a very small object most pancake compressors can not put out the volume needed to spray large pieces. -- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos wood crafting & woodworking classes |
#4 posted 02-24-2012 07:01 PM |
Harbor Freight has a sprayer for around $25.00. You can use your pancake compressor with the small unit. You have to wait sometimes for it to catch up. In your position, this is what I would do until I get some revenue going. It also gives you a throw away system to practice with and get used to spraying. I bought this a few years ago and still use it from time to time. I usually hand apply my finishes because I have more control and the fumes are a lot less. Just a thought -- David in Damascus, MD |
#5 posted 02-24-2012 07:30 PM |
I was not advocating the compressor/sprayer route. You will frustrate yourself to no end if you try to spray with an oil free pancake – they are made for filling basketballs and shooting a brad. THEY ARE NOT HIGH VOLUME NOR DO THEY HAVE HIGH DUTY CYCLES AND THEY CREATE MOISTURE. Why would you want to be in the middle of a panel and have to wait for the compressor or have it spit moisture out? Just buy the HVLP. If you plan on shooting any kind of casework and making your living by refinishing, then buy the right tool for your needs. You will kick yourself if you don’t. |
#6 posted 02-24-2012 08:01 PM |
Don’t get me wrong, not a long term solution – but – when you have lost your income, bills are due and you are trying to get something in – anything, it is an option. HF also has very cost effective compressors and armed with a couple of 20% off coupons, the bite on the pocket is greatly reduced. I have been there and telling the better half that you want to spend a bunch of money is not going over easily. Then again, if I am doing something on old furniture and it is shellaq, i am doing french polish – no sprayer required. -- David in Damascus, MD |
#7 posted 02-24-2012 08:06 PM |
Sprayers aside, I do have a suggestion about restoring antiques… -- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!! |
#8 posted 02-24-2012 08:15 PM |
I fully agree with this. In my projects I detail the repair – only to be told that it was too shiny afterward. You can find stuff at the curb during trash days and get stuff for free that just needs to be glued and resell them. -- David in Damascus, MD |
#9 posted 02-24-2012 08:33 PM |
I agree. Re-furbishing is easier target crowd.Don’t put to much CASH into your projects….people still want items for NOTHING ! -- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !" |
#10 posted 02-24-2012 10:05 PM |
I don’t think any of us knows enough about the financial situation or Simmers skill level to recommend a business plan. There is a huge payback difference in picking up broken furniture and fixing it for resale at flea markets and making high end reproduction Chippendale chairs for museum display. If I were told my best plan of action was dumpster diving and reselling at flea markets I think I would quit before I ever got started. |
#11 posted 02-24-2012 10:21 PM |
Unless you already know plenty about spray finishing, trying 1. It’s labor intensive and easy to mess up. An alternative I suggest is going after the shabby aesthetic favored |
#12 posted 02-24-2012 10:59 PM |
I’m able to make it on unemployment and my wife’s job. My skill level is intermediate. A retired antique restorer (made his living at it) is helping me with advice when I get stuck. So far I’ve done an ice chest, 2 oak pedestal tables, 3 kitchen chairs, a porch swing, a child’s sled(1900), a child’s desk and an old sewing cabinet. All needed repair. My repair skills are SLOW, and my finishing with a brush is SLOW. I charge what I think it should cost if I was as fast as I should be – I’m learning, and I’m trying to get business. I use KWIK paint & varnish remover to strip. I can do a good size piece in about 1 1/2 hours. If I get faster at the repair, and can spray I MAY be able to do this, but I AM applying for real day jobs. So far I’ve used WATCO danish oil. I have also used shellac. My shop is 24 X 24. My wife is very supportive of this venture, but health insurance is a killer! -- simmers |
#13 posted 02-24-2012 11:30 PM |
Hey Bob, what I don’t like about spraying is that it seems to take me as long to clean up the gun as I’ve saved in finish time. It just feels that way, I’m sure it’s not really… If that’s the kind of work you want to do I’d open up some dialogues with antique shops or home decorators, do a Craigslist ad in the collectible section. If a picker for antique shops knows he’s got a go-to guy for repair he might buy things expressly to bring to you. A shop near me buys old wooden steamer trunks, cleans out the smell, cleans and varnishes them and they sell as fast as they come in. Hoosier cabinets do well, I’ve done a few of those that need drawer bottoms and repro hardware but the key is to get the units cheap. Big hand-made looking harvest tables and benches do well, also. Start talking to people local to you to see what sells. Don’t discount having a table at a craft fair or flea market for wooden crafts like spoons, bowls or birdhouses. I think the answer is there if you look around. |
#14 posted 02-25-2012 12:36 AM |
Furniture repair and restoration should be profitable if you’re skilled enough to do it on a timely basis. There is plenty of that work out there and not enough people willing to do it (at least in my area). Shellac is a great product to use for restoration work. It can help overcome fisheye and be used for toners or quick sealing tasks. It is also easily reversed with alcohol. I am fond of alternating between lacquer and shellac when I need to use toners, grain fillers and similar products because I can remove the shellac without harming the lacquer. You can also do a quick wipe with acetone to remove Famowood off fully cured shellac and not harm it. Get really good at using dyes as stains and toners. Color match using layers of color instead of trying to find a perfect stain match. A sequence that works well for me is as follows: 1. Water-based dye stain Sometimes I do the toner step multiple times if the coloring process is complex. I’ll do all of the above steps if needed but try to get the job done in less if possible. -- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com |
#15 posted 02-25-2012 03:41 AM |
JAAune -- simmers |
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