LumberJocks

Biesemeyer fence pictures

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by petergdenmark posted 02-24-2012 12:33 AM 9929 views 3 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


02-24-2012 12:33 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hey kind people.

I resently got a hold of a Wadkin ags 10 table saw from the 70’s, which is pretty similar to the unisaw from the same period. This saw then, should last many years when i get it fixed.

One of my problems is, that there is no fence at all. I figured i would buy one, but as it turns out, it’s impossible to buy after marked table saw rip fences anywhere in europe, let alone Sweden, where i live.

I would really love to have a T-square type fence like the Biesemeyer, but policy prohibits the companys from selling their fences here – guess something to do with safety standards no being compatible.

Anyway – i own a mig welder, so i’ve set out to make my own, and found a couple of good instructions on how to do so. I’ve bought the metal and some uhmw.

But i would really like to see the underside of the clamping mechanism on the Biesemeyer. How the slick pads are mounted, so that they can be adkusted, what material the piece the protect the guide tube from the clamping cam is made of etc.

Would one of you kind folks please post a picture of the underside of the clamping part of your Biesemeyer style fence.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.


20 replies so far

View oluf's profile

oluf

260 posts in 2505 days


#1 posted 02-24-2012 01:24 AM

Go to www.askwoodman.com and look at the videos of the one he built. It is a clone with some improvements. You will get all the information and pictures you will need.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#2 posted 02-24-2012 01:46 AM

Thanks Oluf – but the link is dead. That sounds like just the thing i need though.

Would still like to see pictures of the original, if anybody has one.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#3 posted 02-24-2012 02:01 AM

Ok – think i found it. I was www.askwoodman.com. Looks great, and it has a claer shot of the underside of the original Biesemeyer.

I a little surprised that the Biesemeyer has no way of adjusting for square the saw table top. I mean – if the glides that rides on top of the guide tube are worn unevenly, it would make the fence tilt a little? Maybe this it’s not an issue?

Maybe i just need to watch the videos from askwoodman. It looks great, though i’m going to stick with a metal fence, since i already bought it, and havn’t got the faintest idea how to get a hold of aluminium (aluminum) extrusion.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View patron's profile

patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#4 posted 02-24-2012 02:50 AM

here is mine
hope this helps

this is the bottom standing up against a door
with the pads visible and the handle raised

here it is from the side , and the ‘clip’ at rest
the handle ‘cam’ visible at top right
g on it

this is with the ‘clip’ raised up to the handle ‘cam’
(still to narrow for the race tube)

here the handle all the way down
and ‘clip’ resting too

here in working mode
notice the distance of the ‘clip’ to the body
resting this way the distance is to tight for the race tube

here the front showing the adjustment allen screws
that have the slider pads behind them
(earlier models had a spring steel instead of plastic
tack welded at one end so they could move with the allen screw adjustment
and also i have seen some models with allen screws from the top down
to adjust the fence square to the table surface)

here it is mounted on the slider rail
with handle up and cam retracted
so ‘clip’ is loose for moving the fence
it has a small magnet to keep it in this position

and here the handle is in the locked position
the cam moves the ‘clip’ forwards and holds the slider tube

when the fence is removed and re-atached
the clip can move forward and engage on the front of the slider tube
it feels like it is OK
but is just kind of jammed somewhat
the cam does not work this way

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Tyrone D's profile

Tyrone D

314 posts in 1799 days


#5 posted 02-24-2012 02:56 AM

I have an AGS10 that I am restoring. It has a Biesemeyer fence on it. There’s pictures in my blog if you want to check it out.

-- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time."

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#6 posted 02-24-2012 02:58 AM

Patron – you’re a champ. What an in depth answer. I’m actually touched :,).

I hope this is not pushing it, but could you tell me the dimension of the guide tube and the angle iron that it is attached to?

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View Scot's profile

Scot

344 posts in 2862 days


#7 posted 02-24-2012 02:58 AM

If you need more pics just say so.Lot of us here are more than willing to help out.

-- If the old masters had power tools, they would have used them. So get off your damn High Horse.

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#8 posted 02-24-2012 03:05 AM

Wow Tyrone – The Wadkins looks awesome. Mine is no where near that condiition, and it has all sorts of problems. The rise and fall jams, about half way down, which i think is beacause of the bearing in the trunion. I’m trying to have a new one made. But that is a whole different topic…

Scot – i good for pictures, but thanks a lot. All i really need is measurements, som i can commence in my restauration.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#9 posted 02-24-2012 03:27 AM

Oh – another thing. I’ve ordered some low friction material here http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-slick-low-friction-material-prod21305/?searchfor=slick. The stuff i’ve ordered is a 6mm sheet.

I noticed that the glides (i guess it’s UHMW) have little taps on the Biesemeyer ones, that you put into corresponding holes in the angle iron.

Is the composition of the UHMW such, that it is impossible to glue it with any king of resin (like epoxy). Making small tap on UHMW, and making it all fit, looks to be kind og tricky in the askwoodman videos.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View Tyrone D's profile

Tyrone D

314 posts in 1799 days


#10 posted 02-24-2012 09:05 AM

Peter, do you have the original riving knife/splitter for your saw? I can’t figure out how the splitter is supposed to go on, I need to retrofit a Unisaw splitter to it but I think the Wadkin Bursgreen has a bend in it.

I’ll get you the dimensions of the Biesemeyer fence tomorrow, It’s too late to go out now. It will probably variate from the others as my fence is a General fence, but it is a Biesemeyer.

-- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time."

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#11 posted 02-24-2012 10:42 AM

Hey Tyrone.

This is a couple of picture of the riving knife setop. A pretty commen problem with the Wadkin is that the middle part of the cast iron that holds the fence is broken. They are held on with two M10 bolts, with ar square part to the head, that fits into the slots.

Best
Peter

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View Tyrone D's profile

Tyrone D

314 posts in 1799 days


#12 posted 02-24-2012 11:32 AM

Thanks for the pictures. Unfortunately our saws are a bit different. My AGS10 has a splitter rather than a riving knife. Mine stays in the same place.
I can see now what sort of bracket was on there. I was thinking I might retrofit a quick-release splitter like the Unisaw has. I can see myself not wanting to use the splitter at all because it’s a pain to unbolt two bolts every time I want to do a non-through cut.

I believe our saws are from the same time. They’re pre-63’. The rounded body style was changed in 1963 to the complete sheet steel body.
If there’s any dimensions you need or information on specific parts, I can go check my saw and send them to you.

-- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time."

View patron's profile

patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#13 posted 02-24-2012 11:45 PM

here is a rough drawing of the fence rails
they can be as long as you like

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View petergdenmark's profile

petergdenmark

55 posts in 1884 days


#14 posted 02-25-2012 12:03 AM

Thanks Patron. Great illustration, and in metric – what a service.

I had no idea that the legs in the angle iron was of different widths. I feel more and more confident that i’m ready to build this fence :).

Now i just need to get mt saw fixed, so i have somewhere to put it .

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View Tyrone D's profile

Tyrone D

314 posts in 1799 days


#15 posted 02-25-2012 12:11 AM

I measured my fence at 3”x40 1/4”x2”. The fence is actually 40” long with a 1/4” plate welded to the back.

The rear rails are thinner that the front rails.
Front rails: 3” high, 1/4”thick
Rear rails: 2 1/2” high, 3/16” thick
Both rails are 6’ long.
The bar on the front is 6’ long and it is offset from the left end of the rail 6”.

If you give me your e-mail address, I can send you a Sketchup file of my saw which has the rails on it. It’s probably a lot easier to understand than what I just wrote.

-- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time."

showing 1 through 15 of 20 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com