Need some help with the shanty shed

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Forum topic by willoworks posted 02-22-2012 04:20 PM 1816 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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41 posts in 2574 days

02-22-2012 04:20 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question workshop

This shed was on the property when I bought it 20 years ago. It originally had sliding barn doors and some old half rotten boards for siding. At the time I was on a limited budget and just built a couple of doors, installed T-11 siding and put some storm windows in lieu of real ones. Since this is the first thing people see when they drive up I need to give it a face lift. We thought about just a tear down but I am comfortable inside despite the low roof in the back (I’m short). Any suggestions on how to dramatically replace the curb appeal (still within confines of “hobby budget”). I thinking an overhang the length of the shop would help.

-- Turning A Round

20 replies so far

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Bill White

4948 posts in 3984 days

#1 posted 02-22-2012 04:27 PM

My first shop had a sloping roof. I added a front sloping roof that compilmented the existing roof line. It added a 4’ “porch roof” look to the building. It also protected the front doors and windows.


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1735 posts in 2832 days

#2 posted 02-22-2012 09:23 PM

Hey if you like what youve got and it works dont destroy it. The first thing that comes to mind is a full length covered porch with wood deck or concrete. Youll have to excavate a bit it appears. that will allow you to roll equipment out and work there also. Cost is minumal and not too labor intensive. And could be enclosed later. JB

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313 posts in 2716 days

#3 posted 02-24-2012 02:24 PM


A little late on this post but I think adding an overhand to the roof on the sides and back would help along with the suggestions about a similar roof off the front to create a porch. Good place to sit and enjoy the iced tea after time in the shop. Good luck.

I have never liked the design of a simple slanted roof. To me, it lacks balance. But, I know they are popular and easy to build.

Another thought – I would remove the transom windows above the doors. Consider adding skylights for more ambient light. Then extend the roof off the front.

-- Dave in Minnesota - If it ain't broke, improve it!

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2771 posts in 2320 days

#4 posted 02-24-2012 02:42 PM

Is the building sinking/sagging on the right side? It looks like it might have been underframed – looks like the doors don’t close properly, sagging door frame. If everything actually is stable extending the overhangs and adding some gutters will help a lot.

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11773 posts in 2403 days

#5 posted 02-24-2012 03:17 PM

If you want a literal face lift, build a false front like buildings in old westerns.

-- Rick M,

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41 posts in 2574 days

#6 posted 02-24-2012 03:58 PM

I had thought about the old west look also but it may be over the top. I think the overhang will help a lot. The left corner is a bit out of square and not sure how to deal with that when I put on the new siding – I’m thing of Hardi-plank cedar shake for that. The door is sagging because there is a bit of rot in the framing which won’t keep the door upright – that will also be fixed at the same time. I do have someone coming to help me put the new tin on the roof and will do the overhangs at the same time. I had also thought of putting a gutter across the back and running the water into a barrel for my wife’s back yard garden. Also I’ll be losing the windows over the door which only allow morning light anyway and I never get out there until afternoons.

Thanks all for the input. I’ll post some progress photos when the project starts.

-- Turning A Round

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2771 posts in 2320 days

#7 posted 02-24-2012 08:08 PM

I resided the back (North) side of my house with Hardiplank because of it never really dries out. It’s the way to go in my mind. My house is 1840s and not square but stable. I wanted it to look like my house was sided and THEN it sagged. I also wanted full courses from the bottom of the window sill to the top of it’s dripedge. I made a story pole for each area, trying to keep the exposures around 5 inches as recommended by the manufacturer . Some courses are 4 and 3/4, some 5, some 5 and change. The eye can’t see the difference but the overall effect works. But I would think you could run a string across that roof and frame up the one side as required. It would just be some wedge shaped roof joists. Since the whole building is getting a new roof and skin I think you could pull it off easily.

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3320 posts in 2800 days

#8 posted 02-24-2012 08:30 PM

New front – brick, siding, stone. New siding on the sides

-- David in Damascus, MD

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2602 posts in 3020 days

#9 posted 02-24-2012 09:03 PM

Just a thought. If you have room in front, build a porch like room out front. Move your doors 5-6 ft outward. Low slope roof to the sides.
Here is quick sketch !

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

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41 posts in 2574 days

#10 posted 02-24-2012 09:54 PM

I hadn’t thought of bumping out the middle but had thought about bumping out both sides and having covered doors in between. I just came in from a torrential down pour and that idea seems like a good one today. Thanks for the retouch – a picture says a thousand words. I’d almost like brick up a few course before doing siding. During the rain I called the carpenter and he is stopping by this weekend for a beer and maybe to talk about the job.

-- Turning A Round

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2771 posts in 2320 days

#11 posted 02-24-2012 10:14 PM

Something to consider – in my neck of the woods if you change the footprint of a building you need to involve the building inspector and codes. Just a thought. If the room isn’t in the front, you could also bump out a small area in the back to get dust collection or the compressor out of your way. You could probably also do that on the sly, if you are on good terms with the neighbors.

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606 posts in 4166 days

#12 posted 02-25-2012 12:43 AM

Been wanting to try adding a photo to an object in Sketchup and here was my chance.

How about something like this?

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

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41 posts in 2574 days

#13 posted 02-25-2012 02:29 AM

Bill, Looks like it could work. I downloaded sketch up but haven’t had a chance to get into it yet. This may be the chance to learn something new.

-- Turning A Round

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41 posts in 2574 days

#14 posted 02-25-2012 11:05 AM

dhazelton – you are correct about the inspections. The old part of the building would probably be condemned but I could get away with adding a little something on the back for compressor and dust collection. There goes the extra space I was getting excited about! I was wondering about using the PVC board for the trim. Anyone here ever use that?

-- Turning A Round

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2771 posts in 2320 days

#15 posted 02-25-2012 11:50 AM

The PVC is great. I actually used a PVC molding around windows on the interior because I liked the profile. If you use it outdoors and want to change it’s color, scuff it up really well before you paint.

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