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Restoring Stanley No. 12 veneer scraper, help needed

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Forum topic by gohei82 posted 02-22-2012 09:06 AM 1776 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gohei82

28 posts in 1336 days


02-22-2012 09:06 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question plane

Hello! I’m currently restoring an old No. 12 with lots of surface rust. The natural method for me would be electrolysis, but it seems that I can’t get the middle adjustment brass nut off the plane without driving out the “hinge rod” that connect the “frog” to the main casting. My hope is that some of you Lumberjocks have done this before, and can give me some hints as to how this can be done without damaging the plane. If I can’t get the brass nut of, I assume the electrolysis is out of the question…

-- “Because people are dead, it does not follow that they were stupid.” – David Pye


12 replies so far

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Don W

15017 posts in 1217 days


#1 posted 02-22-2012 01:08 PM

I know evapo-rust will not hurt the brass. I’m not sure about electrolysis. I’ve had the brass adjuster nuts hard on and evapo-rust will help. It won’t clean the brass, but won’t hurt it either.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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gohei82

28 posts in 1336 days


#2 posted 02-22-2012 01:45 PM

Don’t think we have evapo-rust in Norway… :(

-- “Because people are dead, it does not follow that they were stupid.” – David Pye

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racerglen

2300 posts in 1430 days


#3 posted 02-22-2012 01:59 PM

Andy whats available in Europe..I know you’ve got something similar in Brit land?

-- Glen, Vernon B.C. Canada

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Brandon

4138 posts in 1601 days


#4 posted 02-22-2012 02:00 PM

You are correct, that nut will not come off without removing the pin—-something that I wouldn’t try. I used brass cleaner right in place to clean that one up. The other two brass pieces I just took off and cleaned separately. Is electrolysis bad for the brass?

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

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gohei82

28 posts in 1336 days


#5 posted 02-22-2012 03:24 PM

If anyone know of any products similar to evapo-rust in nordic countries, please let me know. I seem to recall that brass erodes from electrolysis treatment. I would’nt take the chance.

-- “Because people are dead, it does not follow that they were stupid.” – David Pye

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JimF

141 posts in 1943 days


#6 posted 02-22-2012 03:56 PM

From Evapo Rust web site:

Norway
Larresplanet
Lars Erik Ahlquist
Framnesveien 16
Snar����ya
Norway
N-1367
47 90102721
larre@c2i.net
http://"dwp.bigplanet.com/larres

-- Insert clever tag line here

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gohei82

28 posts in 1336 days


#7 posted 02-22-2012 07:17 PM

But if I would remove the pin, how would I approach the task? Patrick’s blood & gore states that it can only be driven out from one side. Other than that, do I just smash away, or what?

-- “Because people are dead, it does not follow that they were stupid.” – David Pye

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MichaelR

42 posts in 1079 days


#8 posted 02-22-2012 09:32 PM

The small pin for the adjusting rod is not tapered. I take my Dremel or a file and remove the old peened end from one side and drive it out from the other. Clean everything and slide the pin back in and peen it in place. Make sure you use a punch and don’t hit the cast boss or it will break.

Patrick says the long pin for the blade clamp (frog?) can be removed from one side only but my experience on the later model 12s and 12 1/2s found a short pin on each side. The hole is not drilled all the way through. Those pins must be drilled out.

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gohei82

28 posts in 1336 days


#9 posted 02-23-2012 07:55 AM

Seems as I have the later models with two pins. Any idea what steel quality I should use to replace them? Or, as I’ve tampered with its originality anyway, could I use brass, or would it be to soft?

Edit: BTW, Thanks a bunch for your input, everybody. The Norwegian importer of evapo-rust seems a bit unprofessional by the looks of his webpage, so I think I’ll go for electrolysis.

-- “Because people are dead, it does not follow that they were stupid.” – David Pye

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hhhopks

564 posts in 1027 days


#10 posted 02-23-2012 03:25 PM

I would stick the whole thing into the electrolysis tub.
Once done take it out and clean it.

There should be no issue with the brass.
It may be a little more harder to clean but you don’t have to mess with the pin.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

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MichaelR

42 posts in 1079 days


#11 posted 02-23-2012 05:08 PM

Quote: “Any idea what steel quality I should use to replace them? ”

I’ve used a piece of a nail the right diameter. Here in the US that’s about a 16d. That area doesn’t take too much stress since the support for the blade clamping is held by the brass nuts at the rear.

BTW, If by some truly unfortunate chance you end up breaking the casting, don’t throw it away. I use unsalvageable castings as the positive side in my electrolysis baths. Good for a second life.

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sikrap

1015 posts in 2009 days


#12 posted 02-26-2012 03:32 AM

Do you have access to a product called Kroil? This stuff is fantastic for loosening frozen/rusted nuts and bolts. I had a frog screw stuck in an old Keen Kutter plane and I tried PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and everything else I could find. One day I found an old can of kroil in the basement and put a couple drops of that on the screw, waited about an hour and the screw came out fairly easily.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

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