|Forum topic by Charlie||posted 884 days ago||2682 views||4 times favorited||9 replies|
884 days ago
I just got this saw yesterday. Local distributor had either the CS model or the G, but wasn’t going to have the cast iron model in stock until late March. So…. I took a granite one.
I should mention that I originally purchased a Ridgid 4512, but it had a defect. The entire main trunnion would shift sideways when you raised or lowered the blade. AND I found out the authorized service center that Ridgid said I should use… and which is 90 minutes away, won’t do business with Ridgid any more. So there’s basically no service in my area. Fortunately, Home Depot took it back and gave me a full refund. Too bad. It’s a nice saw otherwise.
Anyways, I watched Craigslist for a while, nothing came up, and I needed a saw. So I bought the 35990G. I was afraid. VERY afraid of the granite. Turns out it’s fine once you figure out the “seam-in-the-miter-slot” configuration. I had read horror stories from people that couldn’t get the miter slots to stop pinching the miter gauge. I was a journeyman millright for many years, so I figured I’d give it a go.
The instructions say this saw is set up at the factory so all 3 granite slabs mate up flat. All I can say is ….. bull.
For those not familiar, the wings on this saw do not attach to the main table slab like a conventional cast iron table would. Instead, they are positioned onto a pair of locating pins, and the wing slab rests on 4 height-adjustable bushings. there are a pair of bushings close to the miter slot (front and back of saw) and another pair at the edge of the saw cabinet. The wing slab is cantilevered out past the cabinet and if there are no bolts in it to hold it in place, it would tip and slide off the side.
Don’t even try to use the miter slot until you first get the wings flush with the table and flat. You’ll only get it jammed and start swearing at it. You need to get these wings level first. Before you move on to anything else. So set both wings on there and get ALL of the bolts into each one. There are 4 bolts for each wing. Finger tight is fine until you get them all in. OK, now the wing won’t fall off on the floor while you level it. Each bushing has a set screw. Loosen all of the set screws. Most of mine were loose, but back them out a full turn or so.
Work on one wing at a time. Now tighten the 2 bolts closest to the seam (miter slot). Run a straight edge across the main table and slide it (gently) onto the wing. Check the front and the back. Is the wing higher or lower than the table? Then you need to adjust the bushing at those 2 bolts closest to the seam. USE THE BLADE WRENCH. It fits the bushing perfectly and it’s flat and easy to use in the space available. In order to adjust the bushing, you have to loosen the bolts first. Loosen the bolt, adjust the bushing, tighten the bolt. You absolutely need to do the bushings next to the miter slot FIRST. Get that transition from table to wing as flush as you can. Once you have it, snug those 2 bolts up tight and move to the outboard pair of bolts. You don’t need to torque these bolts down hard. You need to collapse the lock washer and snug ‘em up tight. Not crank on ‘em. Work the outboard bushings the same as you did the ones near the miter slot. Only on these outboard ones, you can leave the bolts kind of loose and just adjust the bushings to get the wing flat in the same plane as the main table. This is because the cantilevered wing will keep some weight on the outboard bushings. Once you get the outboard bushings adjusted so it’s flat, you might see those inboard ones sneak away from you. If you lower the outboard bushings the edge near the miter slot may want to rise up. It shouldn’t if you have the bolts tight, but it might. So you might jump back and forth between the inboard pair of bolts and the outboard pair as you make finer and finer adjustments to the flatness of the table and wing. Sounds tedious, but once I figured out the sequence of which bolts and bushings I should be working on, I only had to adjust the inboard bolts twice and the outboard ones twice.
So the very first thing you’re doing is getting those wings flat and flush. You’re adjusting the BUSHINGS so that if you have to remove a wing, you can put it back and it will be in the same place in terms of elevation. When you have the wings flat, tighten all of the set screws on the bushings.
Next post…. miter slots….