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Sharpening Cabinet Scrapers

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Forum topic by pyromedic602 posted 2230 days ago 1550 views 1 time favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pyromedic602

164 posts in 2331 days


2230 days ago

I just bought a new set of cabinet scrapers and have tryed sharpening them a few times today. I used a the mill file and squared up the edges and a burnishe to form the hook. Unfortunatly I am only getting saw dust when using them, I can not get the hook right to get shavings. I need suggestions to correct this or possibilities of what I am doing wrong such as using wrong technique when using the scraper. This is my first experience with them and I dont know what I dont know. help please.

-- Pyromedic602, free wood is always good wood


15 replies so far

View fredf's profile

fredf

495 posts in 2293 days


#1 posted 2230 days ago

what are you using for a burnisher? does it have a small radius that you can use or is it only a rod? the small radius will allow more psi to form the edge. It has been a while since I sharpened mine but I think i went over it square to edge, then again at a slight angle to form hook I am sure there are others with better answers, how about it jocks?? Use lotsa force! but dont slip!

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

View Greg3G's profile

Greg3G

815 posts in 2669 days


#2 posted 2230 days ago

Hey Pryo… It took me a few times to get the hang of it too. I found that after you mill file the edge, take to a sharpening stone and touch up the flats and the end. The use your burner. If you don’t have a burnisher, use a round shaft screw driver.

When you use it, be sure and put presure in the middle of the scraper and tilt it forward. It can take a bit of downward pressure to get a good bite. the tilt will vary a few degrees depending upon the curl you creat with the burnisher. Like a lot of things, it takes some practice. I know it took me a while to get the hang of it.

If you would like to discuss, just private message me and I’ll give you my phone number. Or you could just get it from Adrian.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2580 days


#3 posted 2230 days ago

I posted a little blog entry on this topic a ways back…not sure that it’ll help any, but…

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Dorje/blog/2920

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View John Fry's profile

John Fry

74 posts in 2283 days


#4 posted 2230 days ago

Sharpening a card scraper is like learning to ride a bicycle. You will struggle for quite a few times then “BINGO”, it will all come together, you will nail it, and then you’ll wonder why you ever had any difficulty.

Lee Valley has a great set of instructions they put out with their scrapers.

-- John, Chisel and Bit Custom Crafted Furniture, www.chiselandbit.com

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

169 posts in 2552 days


#5 posted 2229 days ago

Try this article I wrote:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/PreparingACabinetScraper.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

View pyromedic602's profile

pyromedic602

164 posts in 2331 days


#6 posted 2229 days ago

Thanks to all for the help. I use a burnisher that I purchased from woodcraft at the same time as I purchased my scrapers. Greg I have not tried using a sharpening stone on the edges yet just a file. Do I need to use it on both the long and short sides or just the long sides.

-- Pyromedic602, free wood is always good wood

View Joey's profile

Joey

275 posts in 2399 days


#7 posted 2228 days ago

What works for me is squaring the edge with the mill file. use a sharpie to mark the edge, then use the mill file. when the sharpie’s color is gone you’ve done enough. lay the scraper flat and slide the burnisher back and forth the draw out the bur. then use the burnisher to start turning the bur back down into a hook.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

View Don Mitchell's profile

Don Mitchell

40 posts in 2719 days


#8 posted 2228 days ago

All I do is hold it against my support on the stationary belt sander, touch it to the sanding belt a couple of times to flatten the edge, then hook the bur with the stem of an old valve from a chevy truck! Its not fancy and I’m sure some will gasp in horror with my technique but its quick and effective.

-- Don

View SteveKorz's profile

SteveKorz

2130 posts in 2297 days


#9 posted 2228 days ago

I’m having some trouble sharpening mine, too… I’m glad you posted this!

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

View kycorvair's profile

kycorvair

5 posts in 2280 days


#10 posted 2228 days ago

I also had great difficulty in sharpening a scraper until I saw a tutorial post on WWA Info Exchange posted by TMS.

I went from very fine sawdust to wide, very thin shavings after my first attempt. See this tutorial post at:

http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?t=7941

-- Dale, Owensboro, KY

View mattm's profile

mattm

27 posts in 2230 days


#11 posted 2227 days ago

This is an issue I’m currently facing, as well. I have been able to get a burr, but I’m not exactly sure if it’s “big” enough. Also the little booklet I got with them from Lie Nielsen says to be careful not to cut myself on the burr. However, running my finger along it with some pretty good pressure assures me that no one is in danger of being cut by it. So, guess I will try some of the advice I’ve found here and give it another go (or three).

One other question, though. The booklet also says to oil them up between uses. What kind of oil am I supposed to use on them? Thanks much!!

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12237 posts in 2680 days


#12 posted 2227 days ago

A nice video in this topic is “Handscraper - The Ultimate Finishing Tool - Schwarz” if learning by video is your thing.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

1805 posts in 2255 days


#13 posted 2227 days ago

I’ve always admired the way that David Marks can just scrape a 12” long gossimer thin shaving with a cabinet scraper. I admire it so much, I try every time to follow his procedure, with the exception of using a waterstone to polish the edges. I use an Arkansas stone, with a water based lubricant. I’ve also tried to draw the burr first, then try to roll it over according to his procedure. Sawdust for me also. I’ve found that if you remove the old burr with a file, then polish the edge, and flatten the sides on a fine stone, then clamp the scraper in a vise, between 2 pieces of wood, about 1/2” above the vise jaw, then use the burnisher and apply extremely heavy pressure along the polished edge until you can feel the burr with your finger, you can achieve shavings. Hope that helps!!

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2580 days


#14 posted 2227 days ago

mattm – Lie Nielsen sells Camelia oil, so they’re more than likely referring to the use of some kind of oil to protect the steel from rust…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12237 posts in 2680 days


#15 posted 2227 days ago

For burnishing, oil behind your ears….

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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