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Ridgid R4512 riving knife lever hard to move

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Forum topic by Matt Przybylski posted 02-21-2012 12:01 AM 2974 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Matt Przybylski

457 posts in 1068 days


02-21-2012 12:01 AM

Topic tags/keywords: ridgid r4512 riving knife

Hello fellow LJs,
A few months back I purchased the Ridgid R4512 and love the saw. Initially the lever you lift up and down was easy to move around but now I have to either hit it down with a mallet or use pliers to move it up/down. I don’t want to be hitting it with anything considering how close it is to my blade so I tried to clean it off as well as I could and put some wd40 on it. That didn’t seem to help much if at all. Have other owners of this saw had issues with this as well? What can I do to make it easier to move in and out of position when changing blades?

-- Matt, Illinois, http://www.reintroducing.com


13 replies so far

View peterbb's profile

peterbb

36 posts in 977 days


#1 posted 02-21-2012 12:23 AM

On my R4510, I had to remove the riving knife mount (two large allen screws to the right of the knife) – then I could see and adjust the clamp tightness, then rte-align the knife with the blade. I think I decided later that I could tip the saw up on end, and access the adjustment from under the saw (the 4510 is on a cart).

-- Peter

View terry603's profile

terry603

319 posts in 1603 days


#2 posted 02-21-2012 03:54 AM

i have the 4510 ,and mine is real stiff also i use an open end wrench to hook onto it in order to get it to move. can’t remember if it is 7/16 or 3/8 inch

-- may not always be right,but,never in doubt.

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

457 posts in 1068 days


#3 posted 02-21-2012 05:34 AM

Thanks guys, I suppose knowing I’m not the only one with the issue makes me feel a bit better. I suppose I’m going to just keep using pliers to grab it and pull up/down on it. I can always hit the pliers with the mallet I suppose. Peter, I’m not sure I feel comfortable taking the whole assembly apart.

-- Matt, Illinois, http://www.reintroducing.com

View jeff's profile

jeff

679 posts in 2155 days


#4 posted 02-21-2012 10:27 AM

i have the 4512.i think your talking about the orange lever to loosen the riving knife if i read this correctly.mine has become harder to move but i can still loosen it with my hands but now i prefer a small piece of wood.i just wedge it under the lever and lift,and then to tighten i tap it down with a rubber mallet because i don’t want to rack my knuckles.i also use my air compressor frequently to clean out the inside.remember the 4512 has a warranty and i wouldn’t hesitate to call the Rigid people.wish i could help more.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

457 posts in 1068 days


#5 posted 02-21-2012 03:06 PM

@Jeff: that’s exactly what I’m talking about. I also use my compressor to clean it out quite often. I don’t tighten the back six bolts down so I can easily open them and clean out the insides about bi-weekly. You’re right, I should just call Ridgid and ask them about it, good call.

-- Matt, Illinois, http://www.reintroducing.com

View RyRed's profile

RyRed

1 post in 970 days


#6 posted 02-28-2012 02:58 AM

I have the same problem with my R4512 which I purchased in December. I just use leverage to compensate. If you hear anything from Ridgid, please keep us posted!

View evotron's profile

evotron

1 post in 958 days


#7 posted 03-10-2012 08:03 PM

I have a solution for everyone—it’s really easy, or at least it is for the r4510. The riving knife lever pivots on a bolt that passes through the full mechanism with a nylon locknut on the other end. All you need to do is loosen that nut a little bit so the lever clamps the knife firmly but isn’t impossible to lock down. To get to it, lower the blade completely and (for the r4510) put the saw in the stand’s upright mode. Remove the plastic shroud that covers the blade and channels the sawdust to the exhaust port (this is so you can access the lever to fine-tune the nut). You’ll see the lever on the top side of the blade housing and the bolt going through it passing downward. Look underneath the blade housing and you’ll see the locknut on the other side. Adjust the nut as needed. The locknut isn’t the tightest fit, and I was able to tighten/loosen it by hand with a 12mm socket—which makes it easy to adjust, but probably also explains why it so readily goes out of whack, and it’ll probably always require occasional adjustment.

View iBrew's profile

iBrew

6 posts in 591 days


#8 posted 11-26-2013 08:29 PM

I had this exact same problem and actually broke the the bolt trying to loosen it. I was able to add lock nut and bolt I had in the shop to repair it but it works great now. It is night an day difference. I was actually finding myself not using the riving knife or blade guard as often because it was such a pain in the butt to loosen the fitting. Definitely worth the tinkering time.

-- Yup, I race my belt sander...

View lepelerin's profile

lepelerin

323 posts in 1015 days


#9 posted 11-26-2013 10:23 PM

I do have the exact same problem. Still trying to find a solution for mine.
I am considering to sand a tiny little bit each side of the riving knife and see how it behaves.

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 976 days


#10 posted 11-27-2013 03:00 AM

An old post back from the dead.

I had that problem when I still had my 4512. Eyotron’s solution is correct.

-- John, BC, Canada

View escouter's profile

escouter

1 post in 309 days


#11 posted 12-20-2013 05:17 AM

To get the orange locking lever up and out of the way, use a pry bar (or long screwdriver). Use the arbor nut as the fulcrum, and place the tip of the pry bar under the orange locking lever and pry it up. Once you get it started, you can move it the rest of the way with your hand. You don’t have to loosen or remove any screws, or turn the saw on end. Super easy to change the blade on the Ridgid R4510.

David – Lake Jackson, Texas

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 976 days


#12 posted 12-20-2013 07:00 AM

I’d be cautious about applying any significant side force to your arbor by using it as a fulcrum.

With the riving knife lever properly adjusted, you don’t need to use a pry bar at all.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1471 posts in 1205 days


#13 posted 12-20-2013 12:32 PM

You don’t need a block of wood or a screwdriver to move the riving knife holder. All you need to do is what evotron says: Easiest way is to take off the back cover of the saw. You will see a locknut on a shaft that connects to the riving knife locking lever. The locknut is VERY SENSITIVE and a small movement to loosen will really loosen up the lever. In the same way, slightly too tight will make it almost impossible to move the lever. By putting the wrench on the nut, (think it is 1/2”), you can slightly move the locknut one way or another while loosening and tightening the knive lever. Nicely snug is where I have mine, but it is not unheard of for it to tighten up as slight layers of dust inbetween the layers of knife, block and lever can make it seem like the bolt must have moved. It is that sensitive.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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