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| Forum topic by Beginningwoodworker | posted 82 days ago | 341 views | 0 times favorited | 22 replies | ![]() |
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82 days ago |
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82 days ago |
If it’s short I use my miter gauge (it’s an Incra which I love) If it’s long ( 5 feet plus) I use a cross cutting sled on my table saw. I have a miter saw but I never use it. -- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step. |
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82 days ago |
Rough crosscuts/initial dimensioning is always done at the miter saw; finish cuts are always done at the table saw on my crosscut sled. Although, I did just put a 96t Freud blade on my miter and tuned it up, so I may start making more finish cuts on it. I don’t own an aftermarket miter guage, but I am thinking about the JessEm. Hope that helps. Regards, JM -- Jarrod, Eagle Nest, NM |
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82 days ago |
For finish crosscutting, I use both my 12” Dewalt slider with a 12” Forrest Chopmaster, and my table saw with an 80T crosscut blade on a very accurate sled. I break down all my rough lumber on a Craftsman 10” RAS. -- John, Chisel and Bit Custom Crafted Furniture, www.chiselandbit.com |
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82 days ago |
1. Use your table saw enough that you know it like an old friend. Keep it tuned up so so that it’s square to the world. I have never used a sled or owned a miter saw. Table saws have been around a lot longer than miter saws. -- bbqKing, Lawrenceville |
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82 days ago |
I primarily use my miter saw for cross cutting but I will also use my table saw with a miter gauge or sled if it happens to be set up. -- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby. |
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82 days ago |
I have an older radial arm saw just for crosscutting. -- Bruce from Central New York |
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82 days ago |
For what its worth, if I have to cross cut a rough lenght I use my circular saw for a riugh cut. If you have ever had the chance to see a blade pinched by reaction wood its something you will always remember. -- Ed Collinge- Edmonds, WA. |
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82 days ago |
i mostly use the miter saw for my cuts. i am thinking of building a crosscut sled though as i can only cut 6” on my miter saw. if i had a bigger one though i would probably do my cuts on that because i find it easier especially for longer pieces. |
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82 days ago |
If I owned a first-class table saw, I would build a good crosscut sled for it, and purchase a good aftermarket miter guage as well. In reality I have a small, cheap table saw. I do all my cross-cutting and miters on the miter saw. With a good blade I find I can make very accurate cuts. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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82 days ago |
Thanks for the tips, I am going to get a 10’’ compound miter saw for on the job use and at home. I am also planning to upgrade my benchtop table saw in the coming year. since I done retire it. I can use my crosscutting handsaws for rough cutting boards and finish them up with a crosscut sled on the table saw. -- CJIII Future cabinetmaker |
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82 days ago |
For most general cross cutting I now use a radial arm saw. Just bought it last winter. Before that I used a 10” sliding miter saw for boards less that 12” wide. For items wider than that, I use a shop made crosscut sled for 90 degree cuts. I rarely use the miter gauge on my TS. -- Ben, Living the good life in Maine now (almost, just need to retire in 2 decades time) |
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79 days ago |
Radial arm Saw for long pieces, Tablesaw sled or mitre guage, OR occassionally the bandsaw OR handsaw. Sometimes the first think I put my hands on. For a neat finish it is hard to beat the table saw sled with a good crosscut blade. -- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python |
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79 days ago |
for narrow pieces i’ll use my miter gauge on my table saw. but for most pieces i use the crosscut sled. -- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com |
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79 days ago |
Sliding compound miter saw for rough dimensioning and then the table saw/miter gauge with an extension for the precision squaring. I have a very small shop and sometimes the work is too long to be done on the table saw. In those cases, I double check the miter saw, add a sharp blade and make the cuts there. Lew |
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79 days ago |
All the above and with a few handsaws too; Japanese ryoba, Disston D8, L-N carcase, etc. always, -- "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -- Albert Einstein |
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79 days ago |
I use my RAS to cut to rough length before I do anything so my pieces are manegable. I do all finish work at the table saw, Miter guage or sled really depends on what I am cutting, All sheet goods is done entirely at the table saw. Hope this helps. -- Pyromedic602, free wood is always good wood |
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79 days ago |
Charles, I thought you were a hand tool guy. I use a straight edge and a #11 scalpel for lumber up to 6/4. There’s no tear out that way. :] -- Tim -- http://tmuli.com |
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79 days ago |
I am a hand tool guy, but I am planning on doing woodworking for a living so you need power tools. -- CJIII Future cabinetmaker |
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79 days ago |
Japanese Handsaw, Compound Miter Saw, or Table Saw with Jessem Miter Gauge depending on what is handy and a shooting board if needed…..
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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77 days ago |
Beautiful set up Wayne. I use a RAS for my rough cuts. Then it usually the table saw with an Incra miter gage. I find it more accurate and repeatable than my peice of !@#$ Craftsman 10” miter saw. Its a pain to get and keep square and the degree marks are not accurate. It is good for demesional lumber and that’s about it. I have considered getting a good quality 12” sliding mite saw to replace the RAS. -- Greg - Charles Town, WV |
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77 days ago |
Thanks Greg. The miter plane was made by fellow lumberjock Phil Edwards. It is a coveted “Philly Plane”. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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76 days ago |
A table saw sled is your best bet for an economical I’ve owned all the major tools over the years… even vertical If you do job-site work or even put a lot of molding on your -- Need help with marketing your business? Look in my profile. |
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