Ripping 2X4

Delta RT 40 will do it…used one going for three grand.
http://www.sterlingmachinery.com/7686/Delta+RT-40-96789
Not mine, nor do I know the seller.

-- One of these hammers oughta fix that...

why not use a bandsaw? it will be safer and has less waste.

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

How about ripping it half way through and then flipping it over and ripping from the bottom side? That is what I do since my table saw only cuts a max of 3” also. It is less strain also when only ripping half the thickness at one pass.

-- Every step of any project should be considered your masterpiece if you want the finished product to reflect the quality of your work. http://www.FineArtBoxes.com

Don’t know about where you live but Lowe’s near me (Charlotte, NC) has 2×4’s that have been ripped that way.

I would just buy six quarter wood. Or rip the board twice as stated.

Any 12” table saw should do it. I haven’t checked
any of the 12” saws I’ve owned (4) for maximum cut
depth but I think they were probably 4 3/8” at minimum.

Sometimes the throat plate or the stabilizer washers
get in the way of a deep cut on a table saw. If you
take off the washers on your 10” saw you may be able
to get a deeper cut. The blade will flutter more and
make a rougher cut. This is unorthodox and totally
not the sort of thing that is considered appropriate
use by manufacturers of saws, but it works and if
the blade can spin freely by hand with a smaller OD
washer pair swapped for the factory ones and the
arbor nut tight you can make the cut.

my makita 10” portable will but its not fun

Band saw…quick , easy , safer : )

Have you checked with your local lumber yard for 4” furring strips yet ?
What are you building that you need < 3/4” thick SPF for ?

-- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did.

Amen to bandsaws.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

Hello everyone. Thanks for all the great coments and recommendations.

-- Harris, North Carolina

My old Ryobi tablesaw does it without much trouble. Shopsmith says their new saw will do it, I know the
older ones will not. Both the Shopsmith bandsaw and my big bandsaw will do it, and if I do not like the
rough finish, their kerf is smaller than the table saw and I can smooth them out on my jointer and still have
plenty of thickness.

-- As ever, Gus-the 74 yr young apprentice carpenter

Why not just buy furring strips? (sometimes called strapping)

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That’s a big cut for a single pass. I rip 2×4’s and 2×6’s on my TS from time to time, but I do it in several passes to relieve the stress that may cause the kerf to close up otherwise. Even if you had a 12” blade for height, that’s a pretty far distance front to back to have to deal with, making the odds that binding will be a problem even greater than with a 10” blade. A bandsaw is definitely on my shopping list, for this reason.

IIRC, owners of the Ryobi BT3000/BT3100/Craftsman 21829 saws claim they can crosscut a 4×4 in one pass, so theoretically, they’ll also have the height capacity to rip/resaw a 2×4. Not sure how stout it’ll be for that type of work, but it has the capacity. The 21829 is the only one of those saws currently still sold new….~ $450 on sale.

Cutting it in two passes, or using a BS would seem a simpler solution.

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Band saw is best, but on a table saw it is much safer to rip in two passes and leave a little strip (about 1/8”) down the middle connected.
That center strip keeps the kerf open and avoids the board wanting to draw together and bind the saw blade.
After your two passes you can snap the two pieces apart or run down the kerf with a hand saw. There will be a little ridge left that will need planing.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.