Removing yellow glue

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Forum topic by skeemer posted 02-18-2012 05:38 PM 1736 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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95 posts in 1785 days

02-18-2012 05:38 PM

I’m finishing up my first project and I had quite a bit of squeezeout in my joints (using Titebond II). I’m having a hell of a time removing it now as I prepare to finish. Trying to pop it off with my utility knife is pulling some wood fibers out, and sanding with 120 grit doesnt seem to have any effect other than removing the adjacent wood. Too small to reach in with any sort of sander.

Any suggestions? The worst spots are inside 90 degree corners in tight spaces. Thanks!

10 replies so far

View Grandpa's profile


3256 posts in 2096 days

#1 posted 02-18-2012 09:13 PM

vinegar is supposed to make it release but you run the risk of loosening the joint also. The best thing is to remove it during assembly while it is fresh but you are a little late for that. Good luck. If you choose to not wash it with a rag and some fresh water on assembly you might try tape then you can remove it and take the glue with it.

View xwingace's profile


214 posts in 2009 days

#2 posted 02-18-2012 09:14 PM

You might try a square profile micro-rasp, I’ve had good luck with them trimming up inside tight corners.

-- I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was.

View chrisstef's profile


15466 posts in 2427 days

#3 posted 02-18-2012 09:15 PM

I like to use a card scaper on the glue just before it totally hardens. The rest comes off with sanding.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View premieretreeservices's profile


17 posts in 1719 days

#4 posted 02-18-2012 10:09 PM

Soaking the glue in boiling water for a couple minutes will likely soften it enough to scrape off. You’d have to try hard not to get too much on the wood, but it’s pretty effective. Applying water is also less risky than applying chemicals if you’re worried about ruining your wood.

-- Premiere Tree Services Network:

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2271 days

#5 posted 02-18-2012 10:25 PM

A well sharpened scraper and some patience will remove it. Your ears will tell you the difference between cutting hardened glue and cutting wood.

Absent that, can you get a sharp chisel in there?



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View waho6o9's profile


7119 posts in 1998 days

#6 posted 02-18-2012 10:37 PM

That’s why a finish my project before I glue it together. Live and learn. If plywood is going into a rebate or dado I mask off the ends of the plywood that will go into the rebate or dado with blue tape so the glue can adhere afterwards.

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 1908 days

#7 posted 02-18-2012 10:38 PM

I have an old old old paring chisel I cut down that works well for stuff like that. I keep it sharpened nicely and I suppose it will still do some paring, but it use to be an inch wide and now it’s only about 5/16” wide.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2390 days

#8 posted 02-18-2012 11:08 PM

A sharp chisel, a light touch and patience.

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541 posts in 2533 days

#9 posted 02-19-2012 02:51 AM

If you use a heat gun or an old hair dryer, you can soften the glue enough to scrape it loose. Don’t over heat because you can actually loosen the glue joint.

View skeemer's profile


95 posts in 1785 days

#10 posted 02-24-2012 04:54 PM

Thanks for all the replies everyone! I chiseled off what I could but a lot of it was set in pretty good. With the finish on, you can’t really see it but I know it’s there. There are a number of other flaws in it as well, but I do plan to redo this at some point in the future once my skills are honed a bit more. Anyways, I’ll be posting some pictures of it later today. I appreciate all the help!

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