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Waterbased poly and brush marks....aahhhhhh

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Forum topic by umbach posted 02-17-2012 01:59 AM 7177 views 1 time favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


02-17-2012 01:59 AM

So I’m finishing a cherry surface. I’m sanding with 220/320 between coats. When the waterbased poly goes on, it looks real nice. Im being carefulto work from wet to wet and using a highh quality brush. After it drys, it shows thick brush marks. Any suggestions how to get these out?


28 replies so far

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3127 posts in 1325 days


#1 posted 02-17-2012 02:31 AM

Sounds like it is drying before it can flow out flat. Possibly brushing it too much. Are you using a brush for water base finishes? I am just throwing out possibles. I have used water based poly and it worked great for me. I used it in cool or cold weather. It would have dried slowly. How is the temp where you are applying it. It is drying too quickly.

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canadianchips

1831 posts in 1647 days


#2 posted 02-17-2012 02:39 AM

I use a foam brush for my poly. I used to get brush marks as well, I think the foam brush puts on thinner coats ( I was never a fan of foam brush till I tried !)

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1446 posts in 1011 days


#3 posted 02-17-2012 03:29 AM

Some brands are better than others. I just finished a furniture project using Varathane waterbased floor finish with no problem. Start with a thin (not thinned) coat that gets smoothed back with 220 drywall screen, then lay down 2 or 3 full wet coats with a good synthetic brush without intermediate sanding.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#4 posted 02-17-2012 03:36 AM


after a 320 sand


you can see my problem to the right of the glare


here too

Is it possible to buff or polish this finish?

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#5 posted 02-17-2012 03:39 AM

This was trying a thinner coat and thus left more obvious start stop points. If I put it on heavier, I dont get the start/stop marks but the brush ridges are more noticeable. The sanding pic was as aggressive as I dare sand, lest I get to stained wood.

View wdworking's profile

wdworking

31 posts in 1051 days


#6 posted 02-17-2012 03:51 AM

I see the same thing. I don’t try to stretch it out too much. Having said that…...

I will be sanding it with the micro mesh 1200 – 12000. I will be picking this sanding solution up tomorrow and will give it a try. I hope to smooth this very thing out. Woodcraft has it. Will need the pad to use this correctly. There is a Charles Neil video on this link that sold me.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005232/10574/MicroMesh-5-Disk-Assortment-Pack.aspx

-- Craig http://www.wouldworking.com

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#7 posted 02-17-2012 04:36 AM

Thanks for the tip Craig! I’m going to give that a try. That link to his video was priceless.

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1619 days


#8 posted 02-17-2012 11:19 AM

If I was doing that job, I would consider flatting it all down to p150 and going over it all with a w/b floor lacquer applied with a 9” short pile roller.
You will get it on quickly and evenly and have a finish that is tough enough to withstand spills and stilettos. I think the problem you are having is due to trying to brush such a large area.

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#9 posted 02-17-2012 12:14 PM

That’s a good idea too.

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#10 posted 02-17-2012 05:18 PM

I sure hope others are learning something from this cause I sure as heck am. OK. So I have switched to an oil based product. minwax spar semigloss. I have sanded the top very carefully attempting to level it as best I can. Carefully cleaned the top and tried renners suggestion of treating it like a floor and rolling it on. I have used a 6” mohair roller 3/16” nap and as gentle a hand as I have. There is some mild lint fuzz from the roller but at least wet, it looks a lot better. Will see how it levels during the drying process. Here are some more pics.

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#11 posted 02-17-2012 05:19 PM

I used a 180 grit and then a 320 grit. as you can see from the second sanding pic, I was able to level it much better.

View wdworking's profile

wdworking

31 posts in 1051 days


#12 posted 02-17-2012 05:38 PM

Looks good.

I don’t want to use oil base since it will smell up the house. Shop is in basement and next to furnace.

I have the products from Woodcraft and have tried them on a test piece of ply with what looks like open grain and it has the same stain and WB poly on it with the exception only 1 or 2 coats. It’s fairly glossy for semi gloss BUT smoother than glass. Looks great. The pads are reusable and that I like. When I get the desktop done, I will upload a pic or two. I have to be careful with the Poplar banding that is around the plywood top. Other than that, it will shine like it never has before. ;-)

-- Craig http://www.wouldworking.com

View Havasumatt's profile

Havasumatt

25 posts in 1002 days


#13 posted 02-17-2012 10:14 PM

Have you ever tried spraying poly? I dread finishing a project. There’s to much that can go wrong. I switched from brushes to a hvlp sprayer for poly. Much much quicker! Does make a mess though since your coating inside. Does have its techniques for spraying but I think it still wins over brushing!

View TheOldTimer's profile

TheOldTimer

222 posts in 1736 days


#14 posted 02-17-2012 10:29 PM

Spraying is the only way to go on large surfaces, I use retarder when applying water base material. It retards drying time especially in warm weather. You can purchase retarder from retailers that sell General finishes and other retailers that sell water base finishes. I purchase mine from Hood Finishing supply a on line retailer. If you use a foam brush or a sinthetic brush to apply the finish, wet the brush prior to using with water. You may also try to thin your finish as suggested above. The retarder will allow the finish to flatten and gives it a longer drying time. I do not use water base finishes here in the desert south west in the summer months, it dries much too fast in our extremly hot inviroment.
Good luck:

-- TheOldTimer,Chandler Arizona

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umbach

41 posts in 1305 days


#15 posted 02-17-2012 11:07 PM

I started out spraying with dismal results. I think the needle was to big as the surface dried spotted. My earlex has a 2.0 needle. Think I’ll try a 1.5 on another project. The rolling has done better but still with some roller marks. Hopefully with one more light sanding and rolling on another coat will do the job. This finish has caused more troubles than I’ve ever had. Of course I’ve not done one other project of this size.

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