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Best Masonry Anchors?

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Forum topic by bdaleray posted 02-14-2012 11:54 AM 1391 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bdaleray

7 posts in 2171 days


02-14-2012 11:54 AM

I’m going to be building a built-in bench, and will need to be attaching a couple of cleats to a concrete floor and a brick wall. The forces acting on them will be mostly shear (lateral) not tension.

What masonry anchors would you recommend?

If possible I’d like to be able to install them with a normal drill (18v Dewalt) but I’m not opposed to renting a hammer drill if that’s the best option.

Thoughts?


11 replies so far

View crank49's profile

crank49

3502 posts in 1714 days


#1 posted 02-14-2012 01:19 PM

Epoxy is my first choice; but it’s expensive.

Anchoring cement like “Por-Rok” is good also.

Both systems develope a bond stronger than the cement around them.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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chrisstef

11444 posts in 1750 days


#2 posted 02-14-2012 01:27 PM

Id go for tapcons or the lag and shield route. You should be able to get away with drilling the brick with your cordless no problem or you can go for powder actuated shots but that would require special tools.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View DustyRich's profile

DustyRich

12 posts in 1062 days


#3 posted 02-14-2012 01:28 PM

I have always had good luck with TapCons. Any hardware store or big box will have them. You are just looking to keep the bench from moving around while you work on it, correct ? I use these all the time when anchoring sill plates in concrete or attaching wood cleats to masonry walls. You won’t need to use a hammer drill, though it would make the drilling easier. Just make sure your second battery is charged when you start drilling.

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muleskinner

740 posts in 1180 days


#4 posted 02-14-2012 01:31 PM

Hilti Kwik bolts are fast, easy, and firm.

-- Visualize whirled peas

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chrisstef

11444 posts in 1750 days


#5 posted 02-14-2012 01:37 PM

Hilti makes some seriously good products … ive had our guys lift 6,000 lbs. concrete slabs using their anchors and epoxy. It was really something to be seen.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2953 posts in 1829 days


#6 posted 02-14-2012 02:32 PM

The quality of the brick is a very important factor, we had a contractor that had to fasten a roof to an old
brick hotel that was made of real bad bricks. We made a lot of money selling him epoxy at a good discount,
and his workers really improved their vocabulary. A lot of brick is made to be ornamental and does not have
a lot of strength, so epoxy might be the only solution. Good luck on the project.

-- As ever, Gus-the 76 yr young apprentice carpenter

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richgreer

4525 posts in 1818 days


#7 posted 02-14-2012 03:02 PM

I’ve used both the expandable anchors and tapcons. I very much prefer the tapcons.

You can drill the holes with an ordinary drill (and masonry bit), but it will be much faster and easier with a hammer drill. Also, you can drive the tapcon screw in with an ordinary drill, but you may need to finish the job with a wrench. An impact driver will drive it home easily.

Make certain you buy the tapcons with the hex head.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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BTKS

1971 posts in 2208 days


#8 posted 02-14-2012 03:22 PM

All good advice above. Most recommend to put brick anchors in the mortar seems instead of the brick themselves. Sometimes spacing doesn’t work out that way. Be real careful about wedging a brick, it is for compression not expansive strength. I would say tapcon or epoxy too. Not as much wedging force with a tapcon as with an expanding sleeve.
I’m no mason, just going by what I’ve used and seen used in particular applications. Good Luck.

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

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bdaleray

7 posts in 2171 days


#9 posted 02-15-2012 12:24 PM

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I’ll check them out.

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GregD

637 posts in 1879 days


#10 posted 02-15-2012 01:21 PM

I had miserable luck with Tapcons recently going into my slab. It is as if the pilot hole is too small.

-- Greg D.

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2953 posts in 1829 days


#11 posted 02-15-2012 01:57 PM

Greg D. Tapcons are made for use in what could be called average concrete, in some areas, the aggregate
or gravel in concrete is harder than in others, which makes it more difficult for the tapcons to cut their
threads into the concrete, yours might be one of those areas. Another possibility is that concrete gets
harder as it gets older. We had some foundations that were poured 70 some years ago that were real
difficult to drill holes in and use tapcons.

-- As ever, Gus-the 76 yr young apprentice carpenter

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