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Help! Poly doesn't want a crack 'er scratch.

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Forum topic by rmoore posted 900 days ago 975 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


900 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: polyurethane finishing

I’m refinishing a kitchen table. I have applied stain and am applying poly ( MinWax ). In a few spots it doesn’t want to absorb. These spots are in a seam or a scratch that didn’t get sanded out. Is it because of dirt of some sort? I have 4 coats on so far. I thought at first it was just soaking in and would eventually cover, but it isn’t. What do I need to do to get it to cover? I Just hope I don’t have to scrape it all off and start over! Hope these pictures help.

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn


18 replies so far

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chrisstef

10437 posts in 1610 days


#1 posted 900 days ago

Are you thinning the poly or is it full strength? Ive had issues using wipe on and it taking a ton of coats on reclaimed wood to absorb. I say stick with it ….

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


#2 posted 900 days ago

I’m using it full strength.

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

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chrisstef

10437 posts in 1610 days


#3 posted 900 days ago

hmmm … kinda puzzling. Theres gotta be somethin goin on there. Are you scuffing between coats? Maybe id drop down and hit the whole table with 220 to see if you can get something to bite. Just my thoughts.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


#4 posted 900 days ago

I did scuff between the first 2 coats. After the 3rd I scuffed the trouble spots and tried again with no luck.

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

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chrisstef

10437 posts in 1610 days


#5 posted 899 days ago

giving this thread a little sunday mornin bump, there’s gotta be an answer out there.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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wdkits1

211 posts in 1956 days


#6 posted 899 days ago

I have run into this same problem when refinishing table tops and discovered that old wax build-up is the culprit . In order to solve the problem you need to make sure that ALL of the old wax and finish is sanded off to bare wood. You will know that you got it all when the stain is absorbed equally in these spots. Stain and poly will not bond to wax.

-- Mike --www.midlothianwoodworks.com

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CharlesNeil

1116 posts in 2474 days


#7 posted 899 days ago

the number of issues that can cause this is unreal , contamination in the seam, or the seam is slightly open , which will cause most finishes to repel from a sharp edge, finishes flow, and sharp edges dont allow them to flow over and into, lets fix it,>>>> once the coat is dry, use some Nahptha to clean the seem good , then if you have some, take a little shellac and using an artist brush apply some shellac in the seam, it will seal any contamination off, including wax, HOWEVER if the poly is oil base, be careful an uncured oil poly can be “lifted” by the shellac, shellac is a sure cure all, BUT BUT BUT, before doing that, simply put some poly in the seam, ( dry surface around it ), a small brush, or whatever, wet the seam , then using a clean finger, ( yes finger) simply wipe the poly ,working it around to force it into the seam, let dry , scuff sand and if needed do it again, to get the seam back to flush and rock and roll,

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1297 days


#8 posted 899 days ago

^there we go! I’m just happy when any solution involves shellac:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


#9 posted 899 days ago

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Charles, I will try what you said.

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

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chrisstef

10437 posts in 1610 days


#10 posted 899 days ago

Love it …. mmm nothin better than the smell of shellac in the morning.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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Dave

11142 posts in 1443 days


#11 posted 898 days ago

Its probably silicon. Almost nothing will stick to it. Charles solution is the best route.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


#12 posted 898 days ago

Charles, I don’t have any naphtha right now. Will regular paint thinner or mineral spirits work?

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

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a1Jim

112001 posts in 2181 days


#13 posted 898 days ago

A little lighter fluid will work.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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rmoore

313 posts in 1238 days


#14 posted 898 days ago

Thanks, Jim. Look like I need to get off here and go try it out.

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

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CharlesNeil

1116 posts in 2474 days


#15 posted 897 days ago

yep Jim is correct, charcoal lighter fluid is nahptha , read the back

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