Should the plane's mouth be angled?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by derosa posted 02-09-2012 07:16 AM 920 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View derosa's profile


1577 posts in 2832 days

02-09-2012 07:16 AM

I’ve been going over my #6 since it doesn’t quite work to my liking. One thing I have always noticed is that the mouth seems to be fairly open on this plane but with the blade installed it seems set up to only do very thin shavings, the mouth closes right up. I kept trying to adjust the frog to no luck and after taking a closer look noticed that the side of the mouth opening that the frog sits on is straight up and down, no slope at all. I looked at my much later 5 and record 7 and noticed that there was a slope to that edge of the mouth so that the slope of the frog follows through the mouth and the blade sits flush all the way down.

Curious on this because I find the wood jams under the blade fairly easily since it sits out from the mouth of the plane on the bottom and it really does seem to make the mouth tight. If necessary for a really good working plane I’m surprised the previous owner clearly didn’t see the need to angle the opening when he used the plane almost to the end of the blade. I will be getting the hock blade and chip breaker next month as there isn’t a lot of blade left. So angle the opening or not?

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

3 replies so far

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3047 days

#1 posted 02-09-2012 07:45 AM


I am no expert on hand planes as I have only a $4 Harbor Fright (Freight?) 4 1/2 clone and a good Millers Falls low angle block plane, but I can’t quite visualize you problem. Is wood jamming under the blade on the back side—toward the tote-handle, or the front or the knobbie thingie? And what kinda problems generally are you having? I am still learning, which is why I bought a cheap one. I figured if I destroyed it trying to set it up I wouldn’t have lost anything, but I can blunder around and get it to work pretty well. I found on it that I couldn’t let the blade take too deep a bite or it would tear out. Try one of Chris Schwartz’s blogs on plane setup, or Garrett Hack or Chris Gochnour over at Fine Woodworking. All have good instructionals.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View racerglen's profile


3112 posts in 2777 days

#2 posted 02-11-2012 02:20 PM

Russ, I don’t know how you got that straight up and down type ?
Just checked both my early 1900’s 6s and they’re angled to match the slope of the froggie just like the rest of my planes..
A weird one fer sure..

It is a Stanley ?

-- Glen, B.C. Canada

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2877 days

#3 posted 02-11-2012 04:23 PM

I also have never seen a plane with the mouth like that. I would take a real close look at it and see if you can tell if the mouth was done that way at the factory or if someone filed it that way. If someone filed it you should be able to tell. I suspect a previous owner filed it that way because I have never seen a plane made like that.

With that said, I don’t think you would be doing any more damage if you tried to file the angle back. However once you get the Hock iron and breaker you may find it to work a lot better then it is now. The thicker iron wont need as much support as the old ones so its not all that critical that the iron be fully supported at the mouth of the plane.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics