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Forum topic by 60Grit posted 02-08-2012 01:47 AM 1335 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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60Grit

25 posts in 2811 days


02-08-2012 01:47 AM

A cabin is being built up in the mountains of NC. It is built on a bit of a hill and sits about 1.5 ft off of the ground at its closest point. The pylons and floor have been constructed and next is the framing. I’m looking for some insight on choosing a siding. The roof will overhang the siding by 18”. We are leaning towards some 1×8 x 12 rough sawn pine siding seen here

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mat/2788716114.html

The wood in the picture looks dry, but more is needed, and it will be green. I have a couple questions:

-If we chose to dry the wood ourselves, how long would it take given it is on sticks and could be put in a barn or left outside to get more airflow. Any and all tips would be appreciated.

-If we chose to not dry the wood and just put it up on the cabin, would it experience much warping or defects?

-Either way, what would yall say about not sealing the siding once fixed to the cabin? Can we expect it to last?

Thanks for any and all help!


10 replies so far

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boatworkstoday

20 posts in 1776 days


#1 posted 02-08-2012 03:38 AM

It would be best to stick it outside, but sheltered from the rain. I definitively would not put it up green; it will cup and bow and split. IMO some type of finish when it’s dried would be mandatory. Pine does not have a good reputation for being weather resistant when not finished. As far as drying time? depending on the thickness, 4/4 should be left to season for at least 6 months with good air flow… Personally I stick and clamp all my green lumber and rotate the pile every couple of weeks for even drying…

When finished, I think it will look great!

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3043 days


#2 posted 02-08-2012 06:48 AM

Cedar will hold up better or if you want a long term siding you might think about Hardy siding (concrete) it’s fire proof takes pant well and last a long time. A general rule of thumb for air drying wood is for every inch it takes a year to dry and longer in wet climates, Like Andy I would stay away from pine and drying it yourself.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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JimDaddyO

442 posts in 2544 days


#3 posted 02-08-2012 01:25 PM

There are lots of 100 yr old barns around that are sided in 1x pine that is unfinished. That being said, it is installed vertically so it would shed water better.

-- my blog: http://watertoneworkshop.blogspot.ca/ my You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA?view_as=subscriber

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michelletwo

2594 posts in 2481 days


#4 posted 02-08-2012 01:55 PM

it looks terrific..you must dry the green stuff to the moisure content in your area. Otherwise it will split, crack and look horrible. Good luck on your project.

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WDHLT15

1572 posts in 1941 days


#5 posted 02-09-2012 03:06 AM

I respectfully disagree. Pine dries very fast. You could put it up green and you will get a little shrinkage, but you will not notice it since it is siding. It would not hurt to dry it for 6 weeks or so, ideally, but you could put it up green, it is done all the time. Southern yellow pine does not split or crack very much, it is very forgiving wood. If you do dry it, don’t put it in a barn. It needs to be outside to get maximum airflow. An open shed with a roof is perfect. The pile must be covered to keep the rain off the wood. There is a lot of old pine siding that was not treated or finished in any way still on many barns, and even old houses, that has held up well over the years.

So, if you can, dry it for about 6 weeks. You will be amazed at how much lighter it will be. I am sawing and stacking pine now, and even a few days makes a difference once the boards are cut and exposed to air.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2141 days


#6 posted 02-09-2012 03:11 AM

If it is green or wet, I would want to install it vertically so the gaps can grow under the strips. Board and Bat
I would consider Hardie Plank if it were mine. Fire resistant and it can even be bought with a color on it or maybe in it that has a 50 year warranty. This would be good things to consider for a mountain cabin.

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jackass

350 posts in 3178 days


#7 posted 02-09-2012 01:40 PM

I built a wood shed (picture on my site) with spruce boards that were fresh out of the mill. They were of course very green, which is what I wanted. I butted them together, and they shrank by about a quarter of an inch in one year, this was to allow the humidity of the fire wood inside to escape. Should I want to make it more air tight all I would have to do is add the battens as in board and batten. The shed is about 10 years old now and nothing further has moved. The floor is bowed because of the weight of the wood. I would be a little worried with pine for this use, plus it is more expensive.
Jack

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

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Bill White

4456 posts in 3426 days


#8 posted 02-09-2012 03:33 PM

Second vote here on the Hardi siding. Put it up and forget about it. Here it will class a dwelling as masonry siding which lowers insurance.
I wouldn’t want a vacation/fun cabin to become ANOTHER maint. problem, and hey, its wood grained too. Fits in the mountain setting look.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Scsmith42's profile

Scsmith42

125 posts in 2142 days


#9 posted 02-14-2012 08:43 PM

+1 for WDHLT15’s advice; spot on in all regards.

I have some 100+ year old barns on my property that were built from green pine w/o any type of finish on them. Your cabin should age just fine, as long as you have decent overhangs and minimize the splash back on the siding.

-- Scott, North Carolina, www.quartersawnoak.com

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CampD

1475 posts in 2952 days


#10 posted 02-14-2012 09:05 PM

+2 with Board & Batten. You can put up pine green and put 2 coats of a good stain on it.
B & B requires a different framing (mainly post & beam) and It has more to do with the way its nailed to stop it from cupping, only 2 nails on the outside and never add a 3rd in the middle (no matter how much you think it will help, it wont). Remember its outside and will change with the weather so let it move.

-- Doug...

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