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4/4 maple Blew Up!! (not really) Help!!

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Forum topic by SKlaus posted 02-08-2012 01:01 AM 1081 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SKlaus

36 posts in 1045 days


02-08-2012 01:01 AM

Topic tags/keywords: maple milling

Hi everyone, I’ve been woodworking for about 2 years and am a novice at the craft. I was making some doors for a cabinet in my garage out of 4/4 hard maple, and while I was running it through the table saw
I got about 2/3 of the way through the rip, the whole back end basically blew out before it was cut and and severly warpped. I was making styles and rails for the doors. almost 4 bf of maple down the drain.

My question is why? I let the wood acclimate to my shop for several weeks. I bought it from a local supplier in south florida, so the humidity levels were about the same. I bought it S4S, as its hard to find anything other than that down here. I bought it straight. It was flat sawn, which I wasnt excited about. But there was no tell tale that I am aware of that the wood would have basically “blown up” on the back end while ripping. The only thing I can determine is that there was some internal stresses that didnt show, and relieved while cutting. If so, is there a way to tell, or anything I missed while selecting the stock?

thanks for you help ahead of time

Sam

-- 2 Timothy 2:15 "Be diligent to present yourself approved to God, a worker who does not need to be ashamed, rightly dividing the word of truth."


5 replies so far

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

427 posts in 1739 days


#1 posted 02-08-2012 02:12 AM

It sounds like the Maple you bought has been case hardened (not kiln dried properly). Search here, or Google for “case hardened lumber” and you’ll get more than enough reading material.

If it were me, I’d take it all back and ask for a refund. Case hardening can ‘supposedly’ be corrected to a certain degree. Don’t know personally as I can’t be bothered to ‘correct’ something I payed an honest buck for.

-- "The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot."

View boatworkstoday's profile

boatworkstoday

20 posts in 966 days


#2 posted 02-08-2012 02:31 AM

^^^ yup. That’s exactly what happened. Guessing it was a fairly wide board (6” +)and kiln dried? Are you able to rip off the checked portion of the pieces and still have wide enough stock for your needs? On wide boards this happens a fair amount when the grain is running more horizontal than vertical. But, ultimately it happened due to rushed time in the kiln…. Good thing is, it won’t happen again; the stress has already been relieved.

One possible option is to joint the splintered edge, re-glue and re-rip the sizes you need…

You can try talking with the supplier, but would be surprised if they swap it out. More than likely they’ll apologize and give a good (heavy) discount on another piece. Maybe not, but that’s my guess…

Good luck!

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

View SteveKorz's profile

SteveKorz

2131 posts in 2369 days


#3 posted 02-08-2012 12:09 PM

I agree, It has been case hardened…. rushed in the kiln. You can only remove so much moisture from wood at a time. When the wood gets down around 6%, you actually add moisture to the kiln via a steamer for 1-4 hours, depending on the wood type. Seems crazy, but that prevents your blowouts. Take every bit of it back and teach them how to do it right….. ;-)

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

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SKlaus

36 posts in 1045 days


#4 posted 02-08-2012 05:24 PM

thanks so much! Ive never heard of that term… always something new. You were correct. It was a 6” board… and I don’t think its salvageable… It looks more like a cork screw now… I had just shaved the sides off to make the board square as it was S4S and it always seems that the boards are a little rounded on the sides… So I trimmed that off.. And then the mistake was going for final dimension right off the stock… I set my fence for 2 1/4 inch… and started cutting… So now there is no room for error… I guess you learn… :-) Part of the fun of it all…

But its really frustrating because there is virtually NO suppliers in my area. I live in Palm Beach FL – Nothing, Nada, Zilch for supply… and I work in Miami… 80+ miles away… So while I’m down there I stop at Shell Lumber… Which is the only place I know of to get dimensional Hardwoods… and its an ACE hardware branch… Just one step up from a lowes or HD… they actually have a pretty wide selection of domestic and exotic woods… cherry, maple, oak, to purple heart, zebra wood, bubinga… So Im kinda stuck with them… they are expensive, only selling S4S… maybe a little S2S…

Does anyone know any suppliers in South Florida? Ive looked everywhere…. Times are tough, and a lot of the ones that were around, no longer are… Ive thought of going Internet… but one site I liked ships from arizona… a lot of time… $$shipping$$.... and going from humidity of 20% to 90% can’t be good…

Once again… Thanks for all your help… any info or advice is greatly appreciated….I might try to stick with narrower boards for now…

-- 2 Timothy 2:15 "Be diligent to present yourself approved to God, a worker who does not need to be ashamed, rightly dividing the word of truth."

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SteveKorz

2131 posts in 2369 days


#5 posted 02-08-2012 10:45 PM

I would start with contacting local tree services… Ask them about local sawyers, or ones that may have a kiln. If there is a local Woodworking guild, or one in Miami, they may be able to point you in the right direction. The good local sawyers won’t generally be on the internet. I have two near me that are off the grid, but I wouldn’t go anywhere else!

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

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