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Reliable way to remove all japanning?

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Forum topic by Brett posted 902 days ago 4371 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brett

620 posts in 1282 days


902 days ago

What is a reliable way to remove all japanning from a plane?

I have a #6 that has only about #20 japanning remaining. I’ve used a citric acid bath to remove rust and paint stripper to remove some of the japaning, but there’s still about 10% left, mostly in hard-to-reach areas.

Can anyone recommend a solvent that will remove all the japanning without requiring a lot of scraping and sanding in nooks and crannies? I know sandblasting would work, but I don’t want to invest in the equipment.

(BTW, I’m planning to repaint or re-japan, which is why I’d like to remove all the old stuff first.)

-- More tools, fewer machines.


13 replies so far

View hhhopks's profile

hhhopks

560 posts in 976 days


#1 posted 900 days ago

Isn’t the whole purpose of japaning is to restand all the harsh chemicals?

I would suggest using a wire brush or a dremel. You may try various type (disk, brush….etc). You should able to pick up some kind of rotatary tool pretty cheap (HF).

Sand blast will do it too but may remove too much and leave the tool pitted. I used to do that at work but have lost access since I changed job.

Personnally, I don’t like using chemical. Not a very enviornment friendly option. That is just my preference.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

View BigYin's profile

BigYin

228 posts in 1015 days


#2 posted 900 days ago

dont sandblast, find someone locally who will blast with “Crushed walnut shell” or Crushed corn cob”
wont hurt the metal at all.

-- ... Never Apologise For Being Right ...

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2359 posts in 2341 days


#3 posted 900 days ago

Ditto on blasting -
Because it is a convenient small part – TONS of companies out there have a blasting cabinet and could even powder coat for you, which would be even nicer than typical japanning or use of Krylon to finish.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1513 days


#4 posted 900 days ago

Electrolysis works great at removing all japanning WITHOUT doing any harm to the underlying metal. All it takes is a 2-10amp car battery charger, some copper wire, a couple of scrap pieces of steel plate (or the like), a 5gal bucket of large shallow plastic tub, and some some Washing Soda (local grocery store item—cheap).

http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/shopnotes-72-removing-rust-with-electrolysis.pdf

http://lumberjocks.com/David/blog/2191

http://lumberjocks.com/Sandking/blog/9327

Here is one I did with electrolysis:
http://www.horizontalheavens.com/Refurbed%20sargent_418vbm_plane.htm

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Zulu55's profile

Zulu55

72 posts in 916 days


#5 posted 900 days ago

Wow, great link HorizontalMike! Thanks for sharing!

-- Adam - Langley, British Columbia (Canada)

View bigkev's profile

bigkev

197 posts in 1227 days


#6 posted 900 days ago

I’ve done several planes and found that blasting with the walnut shells works best if you have access to it. Takes 5 minutes, no damage and super clean.

-- Kevin, South Carolina

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

760 posts in 1551 days


#7 posted 900 days ago

I use electrolysis on planes that I restore and only a couple of them had all of the jappaning removed from the process. There was some left informers are such and I used a dental pick to get it out. Painted over them all with regular old spray paint. If you use this process, I suggest you use baking soda with the water. Arm and Hammer is what I use.

-- Mike

View Bill1225's profile

Bill1225

125 posts in 998 days


#8 posted 900 days ago

I have had luck asking my local mechanic to blast things he uses a synthic walnut shell like product and also has a ultra sonic cleaner which cleans beyond belief just be careful to get some oil on it asap to stop flash rust. normally he has one of the shop kids do it and takes about 10 min and i tip the kid 5-10 bucks

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1513 days


#9 posted 900 days ago

Paratrooper,
What I found works best is kicking the charger up to 10amps overnight to get any tough japanning off (I left everything OUTSIDE for good ventilation). At the 2amp setting, not much progress was noted.

Black automotive semi-gloss is the best to use for replacing the japanning if you are not going with the original asphalt japanning. Three to four coats about 5min apart, just long enough that you do not run. You want a very thick final coating, enough that you have a hard time reading any stamps (Sargent, Stanley, Record, etc.) while the paint is wet. The paint will shrink as it dries over the next 7 days and you will end up with a very nice coating.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Don W's profile

Don W

14637 posts in 1167 days


#10 posted 900 days ago

some info here.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Brett's profile

Brett

620 posts in 1282 days


#11 posted 899 days ago

I don’t have much experience removing paint from metal objects and then repainting them. If I remove all the japanning I can from my plane and the remaining japanning feels smooth and won’t come off even with sandpaper, is it safe to paint over? If I use paint, should I use a base coat first? If I do true jappaning, can I put the new coat(s) right over the old stuff? I don’t mind coating over the old bits of japanning, as long as the new coat (paint or japanning) will adhere to it as well as to the bare metal.

-- More tools, fewer machines.

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5254 posts in 1197 days


#12 posted 899 days ago

I have had good results using the “hammered” paints, if your surface isnt super smooth, this type paint can help cure that. If the loose stuff is scraped off, cleaned, and smoothed out best you can, should be able to paint at that point.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14637 posts in 1167 days


#13 posted 899 days ago

I have painted over some left over paint. If you are sure its solid and have sanded over it. I have used the hammer paint and it worked well, but I still like the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint better. You can coat every 10-15 minutes, so you can build it up fast. This is important if your going over existing because you’ll want to add a few more coats so it evens out.

Just one note if you use it, if you let it sit for more than an hour between coats, you will need to wait 7 days before recoating. So don’t forget what your doing in the middle. It will bubble, and its a bitch to get off (which if you think about it, is a good thing).

I’ve never used real japanning. Its quit a process for very little gain.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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