Table Saw resawing. Am i wasting my time?

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Forum topic by AKMECHANIC posted 02-04-2012 11:56 PM 5758 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5 posts in 2332 days

02-04-2012 11:56 PM

I am trying to resaw some vertically laminated poplar. I have a table saw that will saw 3 1/4”. My boards are 5-6” x 2 3/4 – 3” thick that need to become 3/4” slices. Oh they are 6-7 feet long. I have had ok results but it is rather difficult holding such a long heavy board on there and worry about kickback. Do i just need to get a band saw?

26 replies so far

View Bill1225's profile


125 posts in 2422 days

#1 posted 02-05-2012 12:14 AM

I resaw on my tablesaw quite a bit but i use a quality 24 tooth think kerf blade, a out feed table and feather boards. I cant tell 100% by your pictures but your ts looks like a benchtop unit and my biggest fear in that set up would be over taxing your saw and burning it up.

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10476 posts in 3670 days

#2 posted 02-05-2012 12:16 AM

You can do it. Set up featherboards fore and aft of the blade.
Set up outfeed support and infeed support if you can. A
bandsaw doesn’t eliminate the need for proper stock support.

When resawing on the table saw I usually cut less than 1/2
way through, leaving 1/8” to 1/4” stock in the center. After
the second pass, the parts can be popped apart with a chisel
or cut quickly with a hand saw or sawzall.

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124 posts in 2514 days

#3 posted 02-05-2012 12:23 AM

I may be wrong but I think you can saw it with a couple of roller stands, or at least 1, and 2 people. I think it would be very difficult to do alone. You need someone to keep the wood pressed against the fence and maybe need a higher fence face.
From your first picture it looks like you need to just turn it around, ie switch ends, and turn it bottom side up. I think with 2 people it would be safer.

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5 posts in 2332 days

#4 posted 02-05-2012 12:23 AM

Sorry i forgot to say i just got a new saw a few days ago. A much larger contractor/ hybrid saw with a 40 tooth Freud Diablo blade. I have yet to really use it, but i am sure it is a million times better then the pictured saw.

View Danpaddles's profile


573 posts in 2334 days

#5 posted 02-05-2012 12:33 AM

I resaw on the TS often, saves some time with the planer. Some guys say the big kerf of a TS blade costs you lost wood, but I’ve never had a resawn hunk come off the band saw that didn’t need 5 or 6 passes thru the planer anyway.

One woodjock suggested leaving a “web” of 1/8 inch holding the halves together, then cut that with a hand saw. That is a very good idea, I usually do it that way.

You will have a good pile of sawdust at the end of the day!~

-- Dan V. in Indy

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3091 days

#6 posted 02-05-2012 12:34 AM

For what you’re doing, use a low tooth count blade (23) and take your time. If you don’t have it, set up infeed and outfeed support so all you have to do is keep the material moving.

When I resaw like that, I cut slices ~1/4” thicker than I need and get to finalthickness with the planer.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

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1554 posts in 2528 days

#7 posted 02-05-2012 01:47 AM

Lots of good advice given…Low tooth rip blade, stock support, feather boards fore and aft of blade.

Leave some wood in the middle, and TAKE YOUR time to be safe!

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2992 days

#8 posted 02-05-2012 03:03 AM

You are probably better off resawing on the table saw with a thin kerf rip blade than with a bandsaw, at least you won’t get any blade drift. Use roller stands and you should be ok. 6-7’ is not that much to handle.

I know this is a pain in the ass, but to minimize waste, you could get your laminated stock planed up square, take a rip off the stock a little oversize, plane the stock again, then take the next rip a little oversize, and so on, that way you are already starting with one good side when you’re planing to finished size.

I’m curious to know what you’re using this laminated stock for, seems a little unconventional for the size you will get.

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3301 posts in 2585 days

#9 posted 02-05-2012 04:06 AM

What they said. I resaw on TS very often and long pieces as well. In and out feed support, feather boards, and don’t try to cut at max height, even with a true rip blade this an over fill the gullets on long stock. I also find taking smaller rips until you are through also help keep the cut straight and not push the blade (and thus the cut) out of perpendicular (at max height the putter edges of the blade at more susceptible to being pushed away or towards the fence)

-- Shameless - Winner of two Stumpy Nubs Awards

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2865 days

#10 posted 02-05-2012 04:24 AM

Use a blade for ripping, like a 24 tooth.
Take your time. If you hear the saw bogging down, slow down, you’re going to fast and table saws are not cheap.
For real wide stuff, take one to one and a half inch off both sides, then about that much again, and keep going till you’re through.
Feather board. Feather board. Feather board. I can’t saw that enough when resawing with a table saw. FEATHER BOARD!

I’ve done it plenty of times though. If done properly, there is no problem.


View William's profile


9949 posts in 2865 days

#11 posted 02-05-2012 04:26 AM

Also, I never use an infeed table. My shop setup just makes it too much of a hassle. I will set up my rollerstand if its something too heavy, but they’re only for support. I don’t depend on them to keep the material running straight. An outfeed table is important on long stuff though.

From experience, lack of outfeed table on long material can and will causing an offcut piece to twist, pinch the blade, break off pieces, and shoot it back at you at very high speeds.


View AKMECHANIC's profile


5 posts in 2332 days

#12 posted 02-05-2012 04:44 AM

Thanks for all the great advice! I have a few more questions…]

1. What is the point of not sawing all the way through, and having a web, on the last cut? Seams like more trouble to go back and hand saw it or use my sawzall.
2. Should my thin slice be coming off on the fence side of the blade or the open side or does it not matter?

renners- I am building down hill ski cores. I am new to wood working so this is all new to me.

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2865 days

#13 posted 02-05-2012 05:23 AM

1. If you’re careful, I saw all the way through all the time. One danger of sawing all the way through though sometimes, especially when cutting thin strips off, is the material falling back towards the blade, causing a kickback hazard.
The way I counter this is small wooden wedges. As the slab passes the blade, I stick tiny wedges of wood into the kerf, this keeps material from binding, and also forces it to fall away from the blade once cut through. This is not fool proof though, As it falls, if you don’t control it, it can kick the bottom side back towards the blade.
Just go slow and make sure to remember that anything falling or hitting the wrong angle of a spinning blade is very bad and potentially very dangerous.

2. Since we’re talking about resawing, I assume we’re talking about thin material. In that case, always have the thin slice coming off on the waste side of the blade, or the side opposite the fence.
Once again, thin stock piched between the fence and a moving blade as it cuts through is not good. This creates the same issue I described in #1, except now it is in between the fence and blade giving it direction. Think difference between throwing a piece of lead from your hand, or giving it direction such as down the barrel of a gun.


View Bill1225's profile


125 posts in 2422 days

#14 posted 02-05-2012 05:25 AM

ohh i forgot to mention and didnt see anyone else did either. is use a zero clreance insert so your piece cant fall into your saw from push stick pressure

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2865 days

#15 posted 02-05-2012 05:29 AM

Good tip Bill. I always forget that detail because I seldom take the ZCI out of my saw.


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