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Table saw sled - replaceable inserts

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Forum topic by unisaw2 posted 02-04-2012 07:09 PM 3661 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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unisaw2

208 posts in 2502 days


02-04-2012 07:09 PM

I replaced the insert for this sled, but the inserts are not perfectly flush with the top, and because they are long and narrow, they bow.

This sled is 10 years old. It was chewed up from repeated cuts. This is my biggest sled and crosscuts 27”. I use it for crosscutting larger panels and larger dados.

I cut out the old area and replaced it with a 3/4” x 4” x 27” piece of oak. After running the saw blade through it the two sides are around 2” wide. It is screwed on from the bottom at the front and rear fence.

Looking for a way to use replaceable inserts, but they really need to be attached to the table not just the front and rear fence. I am thinking a dado or sliding dovetail is the best, but to do that it probably means a new sled. (since it is old, I am ok with that)

Being that the insert sides have to be 27” long, what thickness and width is best, how to get it flush and not bow?

.
.

-- JJ - Northern Illinois


13 replies so far

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#1 posted 02-04-2012 07:25 PM

I just put a piece of 1/4” ply on top of the whole sled and it’s good to go.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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unisaw2

208 posts in 2502 days


#2 posted 02-04-2012 07:44 PM

Yes, I tried that but there was too much movement where the 1/4” overhung the old cut. I really want to try removable inserts for saw blades and dado setups.

Thanks

-- JJ - Northern Illinois

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#3 posted 02-04-2012 07:50 PM

I usually pin nail 1/4” down.
If you want to go with what you have you might be able to put rabbits on the sled to prevent sagging and some small counter sunk screws on the bottom. Of course you will have to make a new insert with rabbits also.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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HorizontalMike

7158 posts in 2381 days


#4 posted 02-04-2012 08:17 PM

I have only recently built and started using a TS sled. That being said I would offer the following ideas for your consideration:

++ Front and rear fences should be hardwood (I used White Ash)

++ Attach both with ONLY screws and NO GLUE—allows for easy replacement of entire plywood base

++ Use 3/4in plywood for base because it stays straighter longer and still allows ~2 1/4in cuts on 10in TS

JJ, let us know what you decide to do. I find your sled insert idea interesting.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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unisaw2

208 posts in 2502 days


#5 posted 02-04-2012 08:52 PM

Thinking of something like this where the inserts are 3/8” thick x 4” wide (2” when cut) and 27” long.
Slid under the fences and screwed in from above. These would allow me to use both a dado blade and standard blade without ruining the table of the fence.

-- JJ - Northern Illinois

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RandyM68

693 posts in 1784 days


#6 posted 02-04-2012 09:11 PM

Mike is right. It would be easier to just start over. Plywood is cheap, and stable. You’ll probably never get both sides of yours to lie flat. You can mortise out a spot for your insert before you split it. You can then screw both edges of the insert to the sled. It should keep everything pretty flat.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

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unisaw2

208 posts in 2502 days


#7 posted 02-04-2012 09:17 PM

Yes I am comming to that conclusion also. Makes sense to make several extra inserts at the same time the sled is built to get them perfect.

-- JJ - Northern Illinois

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longgone

5688 posts in 2775 days


#8 posted 02-04-2012 10:12 PM

I would use replacable inserts made from UHMW

View RandyM68's profile

RandyM68

693 posts in 1784 days


#9 posted 02-04-2012 10:15 PM

Good luck.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

View Roger's profile

Roger

19885 posts in 2271 days


#10 posted 02-05-2012 03:35 PM

that’ll work really well JJ

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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unisaw2

208 posts in 2502 days


#11 posted 02-12-2012 09:11 PM


Just a follow up. I built a new sled with the removable inserts. Table is MDF, oak quarter sawn runners, maple fences attached with ¼” bolts.

Used a router to route a groove 4” wide x 3/8” deep x 30” long in the MDF table to accept the maple insert as in the drawing above.

With some advise from Roger, I glued the runners using pennies in the slots to raise the runners (and table). The table was pushed to the rip fence and I put bricks on the table until the glue set. Screws were added later. This worked great, I then spent some extra time fine tuning the runners with a shoulder plane, sandpaper, and wax to get a perfect fit. The table moves very smoothly with no side to side motion. This new sled is much better than the old one.

The Maple front fence is bolted on to table. The 3/8” holes and ¼” bolts allows fine tuning to get an exact 90 degrees.

Maple rear fence is screwed on to table. (I don’t use the rear fence to align the work)
I looked at metal runners, but found them pricy.
I will keep the old sled in storage for large dado work.

Not sure how the removable inserts will work, time will tell.

-- JJ - Northern Illinois

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DIYaholic

19180 posts in 2142 days


#12 posted 02-12-2012 11:17 PM

I like it. Seems to make sense. You spend time & effort to build the sled, and it is essentially disposable, but not this one! This also provides for changing the blade out for that one special cut on that one special project. No need to remake a whole sled for one or a few special cut/s!

I know you are going to add a blade gaurd of some sort, aren’t you?

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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Roger

19885 posts in 2271 days


#13 posted 02-13-2012 12:38 AM

oh yea. very awesome.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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