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Forum topic by handyman720 posted 02-04-2012 01:00 AM 1217 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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handyman720

3 posts in 1766 days


02-04-2012 01:00 AM

have a 14” band saw model KL-W569 made in taiwan, replaced the upper guide bliocks, but the bottom two are round. original steel ones are 11mm X 1 inch. my upper blocks came with two round ceramic ones and are aprox 12mm X 3/4 inch. the holders are short, not giving me much room to play with. really dont want to drill out the holders to 12mm. anyone know where i could get some 11mm X1 inch. dont mind drilling them out somewhat, but the length worries me….rgrs chuck.


5 replies so far

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JAAune

1640 posts in 1779 days


#1 posted 02-04-2012 01:15 AM

Don’t worry about the lower guide blocks. They aren’t necessary for the saw to cut straight. Apparently European saws (the ones sold in Europe that is) don’t even have lower guides. I’d not recommend spending any money on them.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

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William

9906 posts in 2304 days


#2 posted 02-05-2012 04:48 PM

I looked at all the sources I know of and haven’t found any 12mm.
You said they are 11mm round. That equals out to 0.43307”.
12mm round ones I find are listed at 0.472”.
That is a tiny amount, so I’m wondering if there is a way to sand or grind them down to fit?
Myself, if it isn’t too much of a problem, I’d drill it out to 12mm since they are easy to find.

I have to respectfully disagree about not needing the lower blocks though as JAAune suggested. The european saws he uses as a reference point may work without lower guide blocks. I can see this being possible if you have a saw that will support enough tension for a high blade beam strength. I doubt you’re going to get that kind of tension on the saw you’re talking about from Taiwan.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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JAAune

1640 posts in 1779 days


#3 posted 02-05-2012 10:21 PM

Actually, I learned this from Michael Fortune who makes a point of using less tension than is recommended by most people. He also uses inexpensive saws such as the Rigid and gets excellent results from them. It’s not the tension that makes the difference. The critical issue is the blade and proper setup of the upper guide blocks. A 3tpi blade is pretty much required if you are going to use his method for resawing.

If you’ve got access to Fine Woodworking articles then I’d recommend looking for the bandsaw tuneup article in the Dec 2004 issue to see the whole setup process I’ve been using. It’s quite a bit different than most of the advice that’s been widely circulated (at least until recent times) but it works really well and is easier on the wallet.

If the saw has lower guides there’s nothing wrong with using them. I just don’t expect to see enough of a performance boost to make the expense of upgrading them worthwhile. Steel guides work fine assuming the blades don’t have sloppy weld joints and the lower blocks don’t need to be set nearly as close as the upper ones do.

Hopefully that clarifies the reasoning behind my recommendation.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

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William

9906 posts in 2304 days


#4 posted 02-06-2012 02:08 AM

Well thank you JAAune.
I am definately going to research this some more and possibly even try it. Getting to the lower guides on my saw and setting them properly can be a pain.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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handyman720

3 posts in 1766 days


#5 posted 02-12-2012 07:35 PM

appreciate all the comments on the lower round guide blocks. rechecked the diameter of the factory metal ones and they are about 10.75 mm, do have the round set that came with the new upper kit (ceramic) and their approx 12 mm. could drill the holders out, but just thought it was a bit much. finding any in the 1 inch lenght of the olds ones is impossible. the new ones are a 1/4 shorter then the new ones. will work something out, might just slowly drill the holes out….rgrs to all…..chuck.

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