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Question home made reamer

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Forum topic by SuperDave02 posted 02-01-2012 01:21 AM 3678 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SuperDave02

138 posts in 2694 days


02-01-2012 01:21 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I made this reamer to eventually make some rounder planes. Problem is it gets clogged up with only a turn or two. Is this Normal? What if there was a few groves cut lengthwise to act like gutters to hold the sawdust? Maybe I could get a few more turns before needing to clean out the sawdust. Thanks

-- David South FLorida http://rockingrrustics.blogspot.com/


8 replies so far

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2432 days


#1 posted 02-01-2012 03:38 AM

I’m not sure that I can offer the best advice on this, but would a down shear action help to clear the waste? i.e. if the blade was at an angle.

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Don Johnson

651 posts in 2244 days


#2 posted 02-01-2012 12:49 PM

Metal reamers only take off minute amounts of material so their swarf grooves are fairly small – but they are there.

Is your wood reamer acting more like a drill in terms of material removed ? – in which case I guess it WILL need grooves to accommodate the scrapings.

-- Don, Somerset UK, http://www.donjohnson24.co.uk

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Bill White

4452 posts in 3423 days


#3 posted 02-01-2012 06:59 PM

Reaming is one job. Drilling is another. Your shop-made reamer should be used to dress rough holes, and looks to be well made (love the handle). The alternative would be a bung borer. It is a hand tool. Take your time and enjoy the quiet.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Bertha

13003 posts in 2156 days


#4 posted 02-01-2012 07:25 PM

It seems like there’d be a way to elevator the chips out but I’m not the one to figure it out. I would think a gutter acting as an escapement of sorts might help. I’m not smart enough to design an angled blade but if it was hollow with a communicating gutter, the chips might fall from the center. Nice tool.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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MrRon

3926 posts in 2706 days


#5 posted 02-02-2012 12:35 AM

I would think a bit more steel exposed on the leading edge whould provide more clearance for chips and sawdust.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3040 days


#6 posted 02-02-2012 01:57 AM

Here’s a Link to Curtis’s reamer

http://www.greenwoodworking.com/SawSteelTaperedReamerPlans

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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David

10 posts in 3249 days


#7 posted 02-14-2012 05:33 PM

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=33934

The link is to a short video by Peter Galbert on how to ream Windsor chair mortises. The video does an excellent job of describing the proper use of the reamer and how to clear during use.

David

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mafe

11148 posts in 2552 days


#8 posted 02-08-2015 11:14 PM

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/28109

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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