My Problem : I'm having extreme difficulty in getting a seamless fit on a shoulder of a tenon using a LN rabbet block plane.
A few notes :
- the piece being tenoned is 7/8" by 1 1/4" in section with a 5/8" integral tenon, and the shoulder depth is 5/16"on the long cheeks and only 1/16" on the short side
-The blade is wider than the sole and I've tried sizing it to the width of the plane sole so that constant readjustment of the blade left to right is unnecessary, but with no success. Slow drags across sand paper doesn't seem to go quick enough and keep it square either. Jig maybe?
-The plane design doesn't allow for ease of depth adjustment without lateral pivoting of the blade. Causing the blade to be skewed an needing constant adjustment EVERY time the depth is adjusted.
My process :
I rough out the tenon using the nibble method on the table saw using the miter gauge in conjunction with the rip fence.
My table saw is a little less than accurate to put it mildly so I scribe a shoulder line around the stock and saw up the line about a 1/64" or less. I leave the tenon slightly over sized to be hand fit.
I then take the piece to my shooting board and trim the cheeks to a snug fit(keeping in mind even pressure as not to taper the tenon top to bottom or left to right).
Then I trim, slowly, the shoulders and the hardest part is being aware of exactly how much pressure to apply to keep the shoulder square to the adjacent side.
My conclusion :
I realize that my skills and awareness isn't as keen as I would like them to be to not have post this, so I am ready for the appropriate response that it could be the learning curve of using the plane.
With that said I also know the plane needs to be sized properly to the plane sole to limit the amount of adjustment needed to reduce the amount of movement in the blade.
After that my only other thought is that because the plane side is riding on this small amount of tenon and trimming this short little shoulder that the tippyness( i know, i know, it's not a word : p ) is messing me up.
My solution to that is to make a shooting board jig to use to reference off of.
So any thoughts, questions, comments, concerns, witty zingers and the like will be immensely appreciated and welcomed.
Thanks for reading
Garett
A few notes :
- the piece being tenoned is 7/8" by 1 1/4" in section with a 5/8" integral tenon, and the shoulder depth is 5/16"on the long cheeks and only 1/16" on the short side
-The blade is wider than the sole and I've tried sizing it to the width of the plane sole so that constant readjustment of the blade left to right is unnecessary, but with no success. Slow drags across sand paper doesn't seem to go quick enough and keep it square either. Jig maybe?
-The plane design doesn't allow for ease of depth adjustment without lateral pivoting of the blade. Causing the blade to be skewed an needing constant adjustment EVERY time the depth is adjusted.
My process :
I rough out the tenon using the nibble method on the table saw using the miter gauge in conjunction with the rip fence.
My table saw is a little less than accurate to put it mildly so I scribe a shoulder line around the stock and saw up the line about a 1/64" or less. I leave the tenon slightly over sized to be hand fit.
I then take the piece to my shooting board and trim the cheeks to a snug fit(keeping in mind even pressure as not to taper the tenon top to bottom or left to right).
Then I trim, slowly, the shoulders and the hardest part is being aware of exactly how much pressure to apply to keep the shoulder square to the adjacent side.
My conclusion :
I realize that my skills and awareness isn't as keen as I would like them to be to not have post this, so I am ready for the appropriate response that it could be the learning curve of using the plane.
With that said I also know the plane needs to be sized properly to the plane sole to limit the amount of adjustment needed to reduce the amount of movement in the blade.
After that my only other thought is that because the plane side is riding on this small amount of tenon and trimming this short little shoulder that the tippyness( i know, i know, it's not a word : p ) is messing me up.
My solution to that is to make a shooting board jig to use to reference off of.
So any thoughts, questions, comments, concerns, witty zingers and the like will be immensely appreciated and welcomed.
Thanks for reading
Garett