Cleaning rust cleaner off of table saw?

Hi John, I’d clean the surface with kerosene and use a product called Topsaver

Used it many times and it works really well.. Hope it helps!

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

I will clean my saw top a couple times a year with non-woven synthetic pads. After scrubbing well and wiping down with a solvent, I’ll just use paste wax and buff.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

Acetone or MEK will work the best at removing any of the Liquid Wrench. Paste wax or Pledge will help to reduce rust from forming. Even with some type of a coating it will be very difficult to keep the top of your saw from rusting with your condensation issues. As soon as you use the saw you start to remove any coating that you have applied. You will need to re-coat often if you want to keep it rust free.

I have been using this product for years and am very pleased with it’s performance.
Bostik Top-Cote

-- OK, who's the wise guy that shrunk the plywood?

G-96 for guns. Made by Outers, been using it for years. You can throw away the paste wax.
This won’t remove the rust but it won’t rust after you use it.

-- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd

I thought Pledge was full of silicone. Not something I’d want on any of my tools. I only use paste wax for protection.

-- Every day above ground is a good day!!!

Thanks all for the replies. Andy, Bob, and Howie, how many applications do you get per container of each of these coatings, and do you guys live in damp, humid environments? Howie, I assume you’re talking about the protectant, and not the blueing from G96. I suppose it might be good for coating chisel bevel faces too, which I discovered today are also lightly hazed with rust (@$^&#%^#!!!!!)

bbjj, I hadn’t thought of MEK, and that’s a good idea for removing the Liquid Wrench (I try to avoid acetone whenever possible – nasty stuff). I’ve been using paste wax, but you’re right, not nearly heavily or often enough. I like the finish, but if I continue with it, I’ll probably have to wax weekly or better, at least while the temperature is changing so dramatically. Price of living by the water, I guess.

Thanks again to all,
- John

I also use the Bostik Top-Cote and have found it to work the best.

-- Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else

John, For removing light oil, I’ve often used Formula 409. I know, it induces the moisture you want to shy away from, but wait, there’s more…

Just moved to Guam from the coast of North Carolina. Why I lugged a 900lb table saw with me… Either way, humidity changes daily in both locations. I’ve used (recommended above) top-saver for several years and it has worked well, both in removing light rust and protecting against it. As to the number of apps per container, depends on the size you buy. I’ve gotten 6 months to a year out of a 6oz bottle. Generally only need it after I find that I’ve left the barn door open…

P.S. A light coat on exposed metal surfaces (chisels, planes, etc…) does wonders…

-- Matt

Mmax, thanks for the scouting report – how often do you apply the Top-Cote, how far does it go, and do you live in a wet place?

Matt, Hafa adai, and si yu’us ma’ase! (had Guamanian roommates in college – beware the kelaguen, unless you have an asbestos mouth!)

Between Guam and the Carolina coast, I’d say you’ve definitely got some humidity cred! :) I’ll look into the Top-saver, and thanks again.

Best,
- John

@cuttwice: My shop is a block away from lake superior and always have a lake breeze (at least for 8 months of the year; other 4 months it’s nothing but a block of ice!) Personally I really like the topsaver. It cleans the rust very well, gives a slick surface (never had any issue with it screwing up a finish or staining the wood) and the rust stays away. Now alot depends on how much material you’re pushing over the surface (Re: how long it lasts before having to re-apply), but I would guess that out of a bottle I was able to clean my table saw 4x, jointer 2x, bandsaw 3x, and the main bed on the planer 2x?? I’m guessing a bit, but want to say that a bottle lasted me about a year (give or take)....

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

@cuttwice: BTW, Mek is just as bad if not worse than acetone (health / safety wise). I use both these chemicals quite a bit working on boats (gelcoat / fiberglass repairs) and when handling Mek I treat it like I’m carrying the next big plague :-O Acetone just happens to have a much stronger smell

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

Gotta admit, I’m with boatworkstoday on MEK. We swore by it in the military back the early 90’s and before for cleaning hydraulic components (and hands, oily clothing, etc…) Sailors started growing second heads and losing brain cells, big Navy took it out of the inventory. Dry Cleaning solvent was the next best thing. I already inhale enough nasty things and moved to Formula 409 at home. For what it’s worth…

-- Matt

OK, guys, I’m sure you’re right that I should be just as cautious with MEK as with acetone. I’ve used acetone a lot working with fiberglass too, and I have to admit that Andy’s right – the fact that my reaction to it is worse is probably sparked at least as much by its smell as anything else. Every time I open the can, something in my back brain says “Careful, or your kids will end up with three eyes on each fin!”

Got some Topsaver on order, and I’m leaving the Gore-Tex cover sheet on top of the table every time I shut it down from now on.

Thanks again,
- John