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Cleaning rust cleaner off of table saw?

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Forum topic by cuttwice posted 895 days ago 1527 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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cuttwice

60 posts in 1271 days


895 days ago

Hi all -

I’m sure this must have been asked and answered before, and I apologize for (probably) repeating it, but I looked and didn’t find an answer, so here goes…

Last week, I made the mistake of leaving the barn/shop one night without covering the surface of my table saw, and since the weather here went from the 30s and dry that night to the 50s and raining the next day, condensation was a problem (which was compounded by someone else leaving the barn door partially open). I had waxed the saw when it was new a few weeks ago, but apparently not recently or heavily enough to protect the cast iron (note to self: SEVERAL COATS!!!).

Anyway, the cast iron table surface developed a light haze of rust (in a DAY!!!) I have used a very light duty (grey) Scotchbrite pad and some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil to remove the rust, which worked very well and I believe was as kind to the table itself as is possible while still getting the job done.

The Liquid Wrench was excellent at it’s job, and has no silicone in it, but it is designed to leave a light film behind it. I’m concerned that if I don’t get all of that film off, I’ll make a nasty mess when I reapply the wax. Can anyone suggest a solvent to remove the last vestiges of the Liquid Wrench, so as to leave a perfectly clean surface? Mineral spirits? Acetone? Rubbing alcohol?

While we’re at it, does anyone have a rust cleanser / penetrant they can recommend that won’t provide this problem?

Thanks again for any thoughts,

- John


14 replies so far

View boatworkstoday's profile

boatworkstoday

20 posts in 896 days


#1 posted 895 days ago

Hi John, I’d clean the surface with kerosene and use a product called Topsaver

Used it many times and it works really well.. Hope it helps!

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3322 posts in 2546 days


#2 posted 895 days ago

I will clean my saw top a couple times a year with non-woven synthetic pads. After scrubbing well and wiping down with a solvent, I’ll just use paste wax and buff.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View bbjjj's profile

bbjjj

29 posts in 917 days


#3 posted 895 days ago

Acetone or MEK will work the best at removing any of the Liquid Wrench. Paste wax or Pledge will help to reduce rust from forming. Even with some type of a coating it will be very difficult to keep the top of your saw from rusting with your condensation issues. As soon as you use the saw you start to remove any coating that you have applied. You will need to re-coat often if you want to keep it rust free.

View BobM001's profile

BobM001

388 posts in 916 days


#4 posted 894 days ago

I have been using this product for years and am very pleased with it’s performance.
Bostik Top-Cote

-- OK, who's the wise guy that shrunk the plywood?

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Howie

2656 posts in 1508 days


#5 posted 894 days ago

G-96 for guns. Made by Outers, been using it for years. You can throw away the paste wax.
This won’t remove the rust but it won’t rust after you use it.

-- Life is good.

View willie's profile

willie

456 posts in 1040 days


#6 posted 894 days ago

I thought Pledge was full of silicone. Not something I’d want on any of my tools. I only use paste wax for protection.

-- Every day above ground is a good day!!!

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cuttwice

60 posts in 1271 days


#7 posted 894 days ago

Thanks all for the replies. Andy, Bob, and Howie, how many applications do you get per container of each of these coatings, and do you guys live in damp, humid environments? Howie, I assume you’re talking about the protectant, and not the blueing from G96. I suppose it might be good for coating chisel bevel faces too, which I discovered today are also lightly hazed with rust (@$^&#%^#!!!!!)

bbjj, I hadn’t thought of MEK, and that’s a good idea for removing the Liquid Wrench (I try to avoid acetone whenever possible – nasty stuff). I’ve been using paste wax, but you’re right, not nearly heavily or often enough. I like the finish, but if I continue with it, I’ll probably have to wax weekly or better, at least while the temperature is changing so dramatically. Price of living by the water, I guess.

Thanks again to all,
- John

View mmax's profile

mmax

142 posts in 2041 days


#8 posted 894 days ago

I also use the Bostik Top-Cote and have found it to work the best.

-- Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else

View Matt's profile

Matt

27 posts in 958 days


#9 posted 894 days ago

John, For removing light oil, I’ve often used Formula 409. I know, it induces the moisture you want to shy away from, but wait, there’s more…

Just moved to Guam from the coast of North Carolina. Why I lugged a 900lb table saw with me… Either way, humidity changes daily in both locations. I’ve used (recommended above) top-saver for several years and it has worked well, both in removing light rust and protecting against it. As to the number of apps per container, depends on the size you buy. I’ve gotten 6 months to a year out of a 6oz bottle. Generally only need it after I find that I’ve left the barn door open…

P.S. A light coat on exposed metal surfaces (chisels, planes, etc…) does wonders…

-- Matt

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cuttwice

60 posts in 1271 days


#10 posted 894 days ago

Mmax, thanks for the scouting report – how often do you apply the Top-Cote, how far does it go, and do you live in a wet place?

Matt, Hafa adai, and si yu’us ma’ase! (had Guamanian roommates in college – beware the kelaguen, unless you have an asbestos mouth!)

Between Guam and the Carolina coast, I’d say you’ve definitely got some humidity cred! :) I’ll look into the Top-saver, and thanks again.

Best,
- John

View boatworkstoday's profile

boatworkstoday

20 posts in 896 days


#11 posted 893 days ago

@cuttwice: My shop is a block away from lake superior and always have a lake breeze (at least for 8 months of the year; other 4 months it’s nothing but a block of ice!) Personally I really like the topsaver. It cleans the rust very well, gives a slick surface (never had any issue with it screwing up a finish or staining the wood) and the rust stays away. Now alot depends on how much material you’re pushing over the surface (Re: how long it lasts before having to re-apply), but I would guess that out of a bottle I was able to clean my table saw 4x, jointer 2x, bandsaw 3x, and the main bed on the planer 2x?? I’m guessing a bit, but want to say that a bottle lasted me about a year (give or take)....

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

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boatworkstoday

20 posts in 896 days


#12 posted 893 days ago

@cuttwice: BTW, Mek is just as bad if not worse than acetone (health / safety wise). I use both these chemicals quite a bit working on boats (gelcoat / fiberglass repairs) and when handling Mek I treat it like I’m carrying the next big plague :-O Acetone just happens to have a much stronger smell

-- Andy Miller, Boatworkstoday.com; Twitter:@BoatworksToday

View Matt's profile

Matt

27 posts in 958 days


#13 posted 893 days ago

Gotta admit, I’m with boatworkstoday on MEK. We swore by it in the military back the early 90’s and before for cleaning hydraulic components (and hands, oily clothing, etc…) Sailors started growing second heads and losing brain cells, big Navy took it out of the inventory. Dry Cleaning solvent was the next best thing. I already inhale enough nasty things and moved to Formula 409 at home. For what it’s worth…

-- Matt

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cuttwice

60 posts in 1271 days


#14 posted 892 days ago

OK, guys, I’m sure you’re right that I should be just as cautious with MEK as with acetone. I’ve used acetone a lot working with fiberglass too, and I have to admit that Andy’s right – the fact that my reaction to it is worse is probably sparked at least as much by its smell as anything else. Every time I open the can, something in my back brain says “Careful, or your kids will end up with three eyes on each fin!”

Got some Topsaver on order, and I’m leaving the Gore-Tex cover sheet on top of the table every time I shut it down from now on.

Thanks again,
- John

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