Table top rust

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by gmussell posted 01-25-2012 09:35 PM 1596 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View gmussell's profile


18 posts in 2522 days

01-25-2012 09:35 PM

How do you remove the rust from a table top? (band saw) I usually just use steel wool and wd 40. Is there a better way? and should I coat it with something when done?



15 replies so far

View toolie's profile


2147 posts in 2804 days

#1 posted 01-25-2012 09:40 PM

there was, but they stopped selling topsaver. it was better than wd40. after the rust is gone, paste wax is the best and most reasonable preserver against rust. and one more thing that is vital. when the tool is not in use, keep the top covered. almost anything will do…...sheets, blankets, comforters, plywood, hardboard, fancy, expensive htc brand tool covers. i can go 2-3 years w/o rewaxing or developing rust in my unheated shop in NY when i remember to cover my tools.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2851 days

#2 posted 01-25-2012 09:47 PM

Wax is the preventative item for sure. You could cover the table with corrugated cardboard after waxing. Anything will work as mentioned. There are some other discussions on LJ about this and the common thing I got from reading it was WD40 is good for many things but it is not good on the cast iron table tops. I read a long thread and found that the one common thing in it was the people that used WD40 had a common rust and discoloration problem. I have read that you can use white vinegar but I have never tried it. Wet a towel with white vinegar and lay it on the table over night. Like I said I have not used this myself but I have read it in a magazine. There are other products for this out there but they all cost. then again a band saw with a cast iron table is not an inexpensive item either.

View Tyrone D's profile

Tyrone D

314 posts in 2508 days

#3 posted 01-25-2012 09:51 PM

I used 400Grit wet/dry aluminum oxide paper on a rubber sanding block with mineral spirits and it did the job.

-- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time."

View DamnYankee's profile


3312 posts in 2738 days

#4 posted 01-25-2012 10:12 PM

I used my ROS when I first got my used BS and refurbished it. Since then I just keep it waxed and not rust not even in humid NC.

-- Shameless - Winner of two Stumpy Nubs Awards

View gmussell's profile


18 posts in 2522 days

#5 posted 01-25-2012 10:37 PM

Thanks great replies. Do you have to use a particular wax, I did not know if sliding your wood over a waxed surface might get some wax on your work piece that might effect staining.


View buffalosean's profile


174 posts in 3563 days

#6 posted 01-25-2012 10:47 PM

don’t use a sander on your machined surfaces. If your table is near flat (within a couple thousandths), it would not be when your done. Random orbital sanders are not made to keep machined surfaces flat. If you took your table to a machine shop, they wouldn’t hit it with a R.O.S.

I just used vinegar to clean up a machine i’m restoring. Works well. I start with vinegar and 0000 steel wool. then I use the boeshield products. Using the rust remover, and finish it off with the T-9…...
some people say T-9 or wax gets on there finishes. I’ve personally never had that problem. but, I also only do natural finishes, so it could possible affect stain.

-- There are many ways to skin a cat...... but, the butter knife is not recommended

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2851 days

#7 posted 01-26-2012 05:53 AM

I have used carnuba wax and not had any bad results from it.

View toolie's profile


2147 posts in 2804 days

#8 posted 01-26-2012 06:55 AM

johnson’s paste wax, or similar product, is excellent. do not use car wax as the silicone in it causes problems when the project is ready for finishing.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View thiel's profile


392 posts in 3468 days

#9 posted 01-26-2012 06:57 AM

Evaporust for removing the rust.

Boeing t-9 and paste wax for keeping it off.

-- Laziness minus Apathy equals Efficiency

View Ryan Haasen's profile

Ryan Haasen

385 posts in 2577 days

#10 posted 01-26-2012 08:28 AM

Would beeswax work?

-- Ryan

View Sawdust4Blood's profile


408 posts in 3197 days

#11 posted 01-26-2012 08:51 AM

I use the T-9 (cleaner and protectant) with steel wool. It’s served me well even in high humidity areas like FL and HI.

-- Greg, Severn MD

View kizerpea's profile


775 posts in 2543 days

#12 posted 01-26-2012 03:24 PM

i used a 90deg die grinder an a scotch pad for the ruff stuff the pads are like 2in dia an screw on the grinder an come in diffrent grits. then put on a coat of car wax


View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

8506 posts in 2504 days

#13 posted 02-06-2012 11:37 PM

I don’t think a light going over with the ROS is going to take away much material… but if you’re concerned about it, try this instead….

Laydown a pasty layer of Ajax and water, and then put your ROS on top of a greenie (non-matalic scrubbing pad) and go to town.

another option would be to put the ROS on top of a copper chore boy…. since FE is harder than CU, only the crud should be affected.

I’ve used all three methods at one time or another and while they will clean up the oxidation, they will not remove stains. I’ll have to try the viniger trick and see how that works.

-- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5106 posts in 4136 days

#14 posted 02-06-2012 11:44 PM

Got enough options?
I use non-woven pads on the tops about twice a year. Then wax/buff. Any wax w/o silicone will work. I am not one that feels that the tops should be mirror-like. A good, smooth, polished surface works in my shop.


View William's profile


9950 posts in 3018 days

#15 posted 02-07-2012 05:15 AM

I clean my tops with whatever it takes to get them smooth when I first get them, whether it be an S.O.S. pad, sand paper, and yes, I have even used the sander before. Then I keep it waxed with Johnsons Paste Wax and never have any more problems.

By the way, pretty much everything in my shop gets Johnsons Past wax. I was tools, table saw blades, everything. We even waxed an antique vice that was mounted the other day.


Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics