Double Box like Table

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Forum topic by Kristopher posted 01-25-2012 05:41 PM 895 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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78 posts in 2514 days

01-25-2012 05:41 PM

Is it possible to build a table 5’x2’ (the top will be like a box and the bottom will be like a box) example 5’x2’x4”, separated with four 32”x5” rounded legs?

My plans were to use 3/4” birch for the boxed top, bottom, sides and ends.

The entire carcass of each box would be the 3/4” birch, is this possible to attach this thick of wood to one another and what is recommended in putting the boxes together? Spline, joint/tenon, etc.

The legs I already have an idea how I will mount to the underside of the top box and the upside of the bottom box.

Any and all suggestions will be accepted.

Thank you.

-- Kristopher, Westminster, SC - May you always believe in the magic!

5 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile


16281 posts in 4419 days

#1 posted 01-25-2012 05:59 PM

Sure, you can do it, but that much 3/4” ply is going to give you a very heavy table. I’d consider 1/2”.

Construction all depends on how you plan to finish it. Paint? Stain? Laminate? Veneer?

If the boxes will be covered with veneer or laminate, it’s easy. Just screw and glue everything together, countersinking the screw heads so you can fill the holes. If you’re planning to stain, you’ll have a hard time figuring out how to work around the exposed edges. Trimming with solid wood will work, but will keep you from having a perfectly flat-sided box.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5124 posts in 4161 days

#2 posted 01-25-2012 06:05 PM

Charlie beat me to it.


View Kristopher's profile


78 posts in 2514 days

#3 posted 01-25-2012 10:52 PM

Thanks for the prompt replies. Weight isn’t a concern at this point

What I’m attempting to do is construct a communion table for a local church here, that I’m donating to them. The base will have hidden wheels for better movement, if so desired.

I prefer to use all wood, since not familiar with laminate or veneering. Will probably use mitered joints on the sides and couple purple heart splines in each corner on top and bottom box. Thanks Charlie for the idea of screws. I think I’ll cap each screw head with purple heart wood.

I also had an idea of using a clear lacquer over the entire table. For the top and box spending more time, finishing it with a hand rub pumice stone and mineral oil final finish. The table top, I’ll put six coats of lacquer to start. But, haven’t decided that yet completely either, still in the process of throwing that around, since it doesn’t happen till I’ve finished building the table.

-- Kristopher, Westminster, SC - May you always believe in the magic!

View CharlieM1958's profile


16281 posts in 4419 days

#4 posted 01-25-2012 11:20 PM

I’ve never tried it, so I’m not saying it can’t be done….. I’m just having a hard time imagining getting all those miter joints right, especially in plywood. Since you’re planning a natural finish, there is really no room for error. You are a braver man than me! :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2562 days

#5 posted 01-25-2012 11:50 PM

I would construct the boxes with simple glued butt joints. The 3/4” mating surfaces and Titebond is more than adequate. Screws are overkill. Run the grain with the 5’ dimension on the top and long sides, with the grain on the 2’ ends running up and down to accommodate any cross grain movement in the top.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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