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Changing tablesaw blade

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Forum topic by Traildog posted 01-23-2012 03:22 AM 1730 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Traildog

4 posts in 1778 days


01-23-2012 03:22 AM

I do not have the wrenches that came with my tablesaw. Can i use another type of wrench to change the saw blade?


12 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2940 days


#1 posted 01-23-2012 03:25 AM

Sure. You just have to be careful that you dont strip the head of the bolt, but any wrench that fits should work fine.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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Traildog

4 posts in 1778 days


#2 posted 01-23-2012 02:05 PM

Thanks for the advice. I will try it.

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RandyM68

693 posts in 1777 days


#3 posted 01-23-2012 03:10 PM

Also, the arbor is probably left hand threads so it’s natural to turn it the wrong way. I almost put a cheater pipe on one that was stuck, Then I turned it the other way and it came right off.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2534 days


#4 posted 01-23-2012 03:19 PM

Don’t be certain that it is a left handed thread. I believe (but I am not certain) that the threads are based on which way the blade tilts. I have a saw that tilts to the left and the threads on the arbor are right handed threads.

Note that the right size wrench may be metric. My saw requires a 17 mm wrench for the right fit. You can always get close with an imperial measurement wrench but I don’t think that is a good idea, except in an emergency.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


#5 posted 01-23-2012 03:23 PM

I think Rich is right. My left-tilt saw has right-hand threads.

As Wayne said, any wrench that fits will do… just make sure it is a snug fit.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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RibsBrisket4me

1526 posts in 1965 days


#6 posted 01-23-2012 03:52 PM

I have used a Channel-Lock tool for years to change blades.

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RandyM68

693 posts in 1777 days


#7 posted 01-23-2012 03:55 PM

Actually, we’re all right. Generally, on motor shafts the nut goes against the rotation, so it will tighten itself rather than spin off. Reversing the motor for left tilt makes everything spin the opposite direction. Some old Ford trucks have left hand threaded lugs on one side ,right handed on the other. The first time I had to put a set of tires on one, I learned the hard way. At least you’re not using a 3/4” drive impact wrench. I hope.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7143 posts in 2373 days


#8 posted 01-23-2012 03:57 PM

I am thinking that if you are going to use the “normal” straight wrenches, then I would definitely want to wear gloves to protect the hands from blade nicks/cuts. Most TS wrenchs are angled to minimize this but better safe than sorry in my book.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View AlbertaJim's profile

AlbertaJim

47 posts in 1888 days


#9 posted 01-23-2012 04:10 PM

I use a 10” adjustable “crescent” wrench which does the job nicely. My old craftsman has normal right hand threads.

-- My Boss was a carpenter

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1878 posts in 3020 days


#10 posted 01-23-2012 04:15 PM

And don’t over tighten it. Just snugging it up is sufficient.

-- Joe

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3256 posts in 2135 days


#11 posted 01-23-2012 06:02 PM

I believe you should stand behind the saw table as you would when operating it. You hold the blade with a wood scrap and you put the wrench on the nut and pull the wrench handle toward you. This will loosen the nut since it should be designed to tighten when in use. Think of the blade pushing the nut back as it operates. Pull it toward your body to remove it. Always turn the power off or unplug the saw when working around the blade.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2310 days


#12 posted 01-23-2012 06:02 PM

I use a stick and a wrench for removal. 3/4×1 3/4×10 inches, with a bit of a handle hewn into one end. It wedges between the blade and the throat for the loosening turn.

To remount the blade, +1 to Joe’s comment. Most folks way overtighten at this stage.

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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