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Woodslicer or Bandsaw Problems

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Forum topic by Cornductor posted 01-23-2012 02:34 AM 2390 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Cornductor

208 posts in 2127 days


01-23-2012 02:34 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw blade woodslicer

My woodslicer blade on my craftsman 12” bandsaw is just not cutting as precise as it once was.

Backup to about a week ago It was cutting beautifully. I then got some eucalyptus logs from a craigslist post and brought them home. The logs were fresh cut and I proceeded to mill a few of them into slabs. This caused the blade to clog up with thick wet saw dust. Once done I dissembled the band saw and cleaned every square inch ie bearings, table, guides, wheels,etc. I cleaned the woodslicer blade and with simple green, hosed it off and then sprayed it with w-40.

Today I installed the blade and did the proper set-up as I have used numerous timers before. Now I can’t for the life of me get a nice clean straight cut. I tried slicing some hickory and the blade wants to pull toward my fence. Retighten the blade and checked set up and it still does the same thing. I switched to some 5/4 maple and its doing the same on that also. I then used a 3/4 inch thick piece of pine and the blade worked perfectly.

What gives? is it the dense wood? The set up? or just a blade that’s getting dull and now is beginning to wander? Also not sure if it really matters but the blade has about 2hrs of use on it. Any Help would be great.

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin


9 replies so far

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Cornductor

208 posts in 2127 days


#1 posted 01-23-2012 10:31 PM

Well sometimes the jigs we make are not always the best. I solved my problem by just steadying the piece by hand and free handing it to slice the piece I needed.

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13003 posts in 2153 days


#2 posted 01-23-2012 10:36 PM

^Band saw blades dull fast…and it’s a real drag. When I wanted a bandsaw, I wanted the biggest I could find. Well, I did, and now really long custom blades are costing me a fortune. Most resawers speak of bandsaw blade life in hundreds of board feet at best.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Loren's profile

Loren

8295 posts in 3108 days


#3 posted 01-23-2012 10:50 PM

Woodslicers don’t stay sharp very long. A resharpening shop won’t
sharpen them but you can do it yourself by inverting the blade on
the saw and grinding the gullets with a moto-tool.

View tnwood's profile

tnwood

249 posts in 2546 days


#4 posted 01-23-2012 11:20 PM

Woodslicers are not meant to cut wet, green wood. Timberwolf sells a blade they advertise for use in green woods; I think it is a 2-3tpi, alternate set but I’m not sure of that off the top of my head. I think you just dulled it is all. As Loren said, they are not the most durable blades. You could try touching it up with a moto-tool and diamond stone but I doubt it will last long even if you do get it sharp again. My experience is that my touch ups with a stone and grinder give me about 1/3 the life of the commercial sharpening and set. It doesn’t matter how many hours you have on it; just the amount of wood, type of wood, how much dirt is present, etc. I keep an old Timberwolf for cutting wet dirty stuff and keep my Woodslicers for resawing and maybe a straight cut in dry wood occasionally.

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SASmith

1850 posts in 2447 days


#5 posted 01-23-2012 11:21 PM

Woodslicer recommends not cutting green wood with their blades. They have very little set, which is what gives a super smooth cut in dry wood.
Timberwolf has a blade that is made specifically for cutting green wood. It has few teeth and lots of set for clearing out the sawdust and keeping the blade cool.

Edited to add: tnwood beat me to it.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View Jeff in Huntersville's profile

Jeff in Huntersville

404 posts in 2654 days


#6 posted 01-23-2012 11:24 PM

The Woodslicer is specifically not recommended for green wood. Not sure why but that’s the information on the Highland Hardware web site. Could it be that overheating changes the set of the teeth and possibly warps the thin metal?

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8236 posts in 2888 days


#7 posted 01-23-2012 11:25 PM

Sounds like the set is off on one side. Probably a little dull, as well. A blade for that saw shouldn’t break the bank. I’d just buy a new one.
If you want the hassle of shipping and etc., Suffolk Machinery will sharpen and set your blade.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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Cornductor

208 posts in 2127 days


#8 posted 01-24-2012 04:07 AM

One of those moments when you get the blade and your so damn excited to try it out and you forget to read the little info packet. Well, that was me I failed to read the part about not cutting green wood. Live and learn ehh.

I’ll be checking out Timberwolfs blade.

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8236 posts in 2888 days


#9 posted 01-24-2012 05:15 PM

I resaw a lot of semi dry mesquite and I find the blades from Suffolk (1/2” 4 TPI bi metal) to work better and last longer than either the Timber wolf or the Wood Slicer. Every one I’ve used has a perfect set and hasn’t required any adjustments to the fence to maintain a straight cut. Although it hasn’t been needed (so far) the Suffolk blades are not unduly affected by the occasional bullet, piece of barbed wire or nail.
I highly recommend this blade.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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