« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum
Forum topic by FMG | posted 01-22-2012 05:25 PM | 1142 views | 0 times favorited | 5 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
01-22-2012 05:25 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: question walnut milling joining Hey everyone. I am excited to be back in the shop more and more lately. I bought some air dried rough cut lumber with the live edge still on it, and started to dimension it last night. Very exciting! Very frustrating also. While practicing on a less desirable pieces I had to take a bow out and on the joiner took it down about 1/4” by the end I had 1” on one end and 3/4” of thickness on the other, even after alternating feed ends. I’m sure it’s my technique but not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any ideas? -- FMG- Woodworking is 90% mental the other half is physical |
5 replies so far
#1 posted 01-22-2012 05:30 PM |
There have been several threads on this, and the general consensus is that if you keep running a board through a jointer on one side you are going to get taper no matter what. -- Don, Royersford, PA |
#2 posted 01-22-2012 05:41 PM |
Yeah, doncutlip is right. Your jointer makes flat faces, your planer makes parallel faces. If the jointer could make parallel faces (i.e. no taper), you wouldn’t need a planer. -- http://www.peteroxley.com/woodworking -- http://north40studios.etsy.com -- |
#3 posted 01-22-2012 06:24 PM |
I like to joint one face then use a board with a nice straight edge and clamp the rough cut board to it and run it through the table saw first.Its a pretty crude drawing so hope you get my drift? |
#4 posted 01-22-2012 06:27 PM |
FMG, A couple of questions. How long are the infeed outfeed tables on your jointer? There are some really good guys on here and as Don said there are quite a few threads here. The hand plane guys could probably understand your technique issues better, if the lumber is longer than your infeed table. BTW, you should check coplaner on your tables and the knives to outfeed table relationship. |
#5 posted 01-22-2012 06:50 PM |
I like the jointer for shorter pieces, less than about 3’. Anything longer I run through my table saw against an 8’ piece of MDF so the entire piece is against the MDF and the MDF is sliding against the fence. Similar idea to Chipy’s but I do not clamp it. Just keep the butt ends even as I feed it. I always start with the concave side to the mdf first to prevent rocking while I am feeding. -- ~~ John . . . . . . . . . Against the Grain Woodworking & Design, LLC |
Have your say...
You must be signed in to reply.
|
Forum | Topics |
---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
12035 |
Woodturning
|
2108 |
Woodcarving
|
431 |
Scrollsawing
|
340 |
Joinery
|
1372 |
Finishing
|
4909 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
6697 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
28075 |
CNC Woodworking
|
212 |
Hand Tools
|
5413 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
1421 |
Wood & Lumber
|
6236 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
1388 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
2154 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
1187 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
4759 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
2201 |
Coffee Lounge
|
8847 |