Large Taper when jointing

There have been several threads on this, and the general consensus is that if you keep running a board through a jointer on one side you are going to get taper no matter what.

-- Don, Royersford, PA

Yeah, doncutlip is right. Your jointer makes flat faces, your planer makes parallel faces. If the jointer could make parallel faces (i.e. no taper), you wouldn’t need a planer.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com/woodworking -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

I like to joint one face then use a board with a nice straight edge and clamp the rough cut board to it and run it through the table saw first.Its a pretty crude drawing so hope you get my drift?

FMG, A couple of questions.

How long are the infeed outfeed tables on your jointer?
How long is / are the boards in question?
How was the bow positioned in relation to the cutter / tables?
If the bow was positioned so the crown was up along the length, how hard did you press downward?

There are some really good guys on here and as Don said there are quite a few threads here.

The hand plane guys could probably understand your technique issues better, if the lumber is longer than your infeed table. BTW, you should check coplaner on your tables and the knives to outfeed table relationship.

I like the jointer for shorter pieces, less than about 3’. Anything longer I run through my table saw against an 8’ piece of MDF so the entire piece is against the MDF and the MDF is sliding against the fence. Similar idea to Chipy’s but I do not clamp it. Just keep the butt ends even as I feed it. I always start with the concave side to the mdf first to prevent rocking while I am feeding.

-- ~~ John . . . . . . . . . Against the Grain Woodworking & Design, LLC