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Wondering about glue technology.............

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Forum topic by Bill White posted 01-20-2012 11:27 PM 1043 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill White

4456 posts in 3426 days


01-20-2012 11:27 PM

Sure wish we could see some tech info about PVA and epoxy glues. I am brain dead from all the posts about “I use , and “what glue should I use”, “can I use this glue at 30,000 feet below sea level/300% humidity”, oily woods, extermely dry climates, etc. Not tryin’ to be a snot, but there has to be some solid info from manufacturers and applications.
Now, what glue can I use to stick my
to a _?
Any creep, moisture issues, grab time, cure time, gap filling characteristics, etc., etc.?

Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us


4 replies so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2463 days


#1 posted 01-21-2012 01:39 AM

I think for the most part, the manufacturers are vague on purpose to limit liability. There are so many variables such as shelf life, temp, humidity, clamping pressure, wood moisture content, application techniques, and wood oils. Add to that, most people won’t read the literature anyway and try to use it for the wrong things. I mentioned pre-wetting some wood to people using urethane glue (Gorilla) and they look at me like I am speaking in tongues or something. Just like most people can’t tell you the difference in why you put rubber cement on both sides sometimes and one side only for other uses.

Just about any modern wood glue bond is stronger than the wood itself so it ultimately comes down to personal preference. There are people that are moving back to hide glues precisely because it is not as strong as the wood so things can be taken apart. I have gotten to the point that I just choose regular PVA for a lot, Titebond III when moisture is an issue, and epoxy when I want more open time or want to fill gaps.

Epoxy will fill gaps up to 1/8” pretty easy and much more with the right fillers. Takes little clamping pressure and is waterproof. Open time depends on the temperature and thickness. Lots of different additives to change the properties to what you want.

Titebond III is good for just about any wood that you don’t worry about a darker glue line. Very high water resistance. Doesn’t glue well to itself. The PVAs will supposedly creep but I have never seen it to be a problem. If I could only have one glue, it would be Titebond III.

I don’t mess with the urethanes. They glue ok but they are more expensive than epoxy, don’t fill gaps as well and are messy to work with. Then they don’t last well after opening—at least in my humid climate.

Once every few years, I will use a couple drops of CA glue.. If I do I have to go buy some new as the tubes dry out.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2540 days


#2 posted 01-21-2012 01:45 AM

A great resource regarding glue choice is www.thistothat.com. It recommends the best glue option for any 2 combinations of surfaces. I just checked it for the best glue for plastic to plastic (Household Goop).

Unfortunately, it does not address some of Bill’s provocative questions such as 30,000 feet below sea level.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View bbjjj's profile

bbjjj

29 posts in 1797 days


#3 posted 01-21-2012 05:00 AM

Fine Woodworking did a testing and published a great article a few years ago on this very subject. It was very comprehensive and the results were surprising. I do not remember the month or year of the publication but I am sure it is available somewhere.

View Loren's profile

Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#4 posted 01-21-2012 06:59 AM

No glue is pefect for every woodworking application. If you make your
joints tight you can glue up with Weldwood, which doesn’t creep. But
for most interior joinery applications white glue offers excellent performance
in several areas. Plus, it is economical.

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