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Countering natural warp after resaw?

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Forum topic by Matt posted 01-17-2012 12:53 PM 1741 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Matt

31 posts in 1058 days


01-17-2012 12:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: humor question

Fellow connoisseurs of saw dust, I need some advice. Recently tried my hand at re-sawing, my first pieces were red mohagany. The wife loves the gifts it made, but here we are a month later and the 1/4” re-sawn pieces have started to succumb to the tension left in the growth rings. How does one counter this? Probably a very simple solution here… enlighten me?

-- Matt


6 replies so far

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WDHLT15

1167 posts in 1161 days


#1 posted 01-17-2012 02:27 PM

It is generally better to saw stock out to the target size green from the log, then dry that stock. That way, you deal with the tension upfront. For example, if I am sawing 4/4 stock, I saw the rough board 1 1/8” thick so that it can be dried and then planed to 7/8” or 3/4”. A 4/4 board will dry without splitting or checking. However, lets say that I saw a log into a 4” cant with the intent to resaw later into four 1” boards. What happens 99% of the time is the the drying stress in the 4” cant caused by the shell drying faster than the core will cause splits and checks in the cant. This ruins the piece from the stand point of recovery of four 1” boards. You would have been better to just saw the four 1” boards from the start.

To answer your question, tension in a large piece will be released when resawn. I would go ahead and resaw the stock and then sticker stack it with weight just like it was green. After it has come fully to equilibrium, there will be less issues. You have to give the wood time to become stable, and it has to be controlled in the process like with the stickers (spacing) and weight to keep the stack flat.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT15 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln

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DLCW

527 posts in 1340 days


#2 posted 01-17-2012 10:27 PM

Whenever I resaw, I do so at least 3 weeks before I need the thin boards. Like WDHLT15 says, resaw the board and sticker and weight it. Most of the time, the thin board will go almost flat after the tension has stabilized.

Don’t plan on using the resawn boards right away.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - http://www.dlwoodworks.com - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

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a1Jim

112294 posts in 2262 days


#3 posted 01-17-2012 10:35 PM

Try spaying a little water on the concave side and see if it straightens out. It might be necessary to repeat the process more than once,if it flattens out then sticker with weight on top and let dry a few days.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7716 posts in 2333 days


#4 posted 01-17-2012 10:55 PM

That’s one reason why it’s often a waste of effort to resaw wide
boards. I recommend ripping down to 4” wide, resawing, then
jointing your resawn boards after. Cupping of wide boards is
so common when resawing them, that in making furniture it
is often not worth the hassle, imo. If you’re making guitars,
it’s a different situation obviously… but then you’re looking for
quarter-sawn boards to resaw precisely because of their
stability.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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Matt

31 posts in 1058 days


#5 posted 01-18-2012 09:49 AM

Gents, thank you much for your forward guidance. More pre-planning time will be given in the future to allow re-sawn wood to succumb to sticker stacking and pressure. Much as I like the look of “one solid piece” for a top or facing, I may have to consider ripping and joining. Again, thanks for the advice.

-- Matt

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1854 posts in 2246 days


#6 posted 01-18-2012 01:01 PM

If you cut a wide board into 4 inch or so strips and glue them back together in their original orientation, it will still look almost like one solid piece.

-- Joe

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