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Forum topic by Brandon posted 01-15-2012 02:55 AM 663 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brandon

197 posts in 1355 days


01-15-2012 02:55 AM

I finished getting my old Atlas Tablesaw up and running after a tune up, 10 mins into cutting some pine the saw shut off. I checked pwr supply and I blew no breakers, checked extension cord, checked power cord, etc all the way to the motor. When I checked voltage from the cord to the on switch my meter read 118 volts. Checked voltage going out of switch and it was less than 10 volts. I’m guessing its the power switch on the saw.

Any ideas?

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin


7 replies so far

View drfixit's profile

drfixit

318 posts in 1832 days


#1 posted 01-15-2012 03:01 AM

Sounds like it to me.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

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AZMac

87 posts in 1381 days


#2 posted 01-15-2012 03:02 AM

sounds like a bad switch. the contacts probably overheated

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Brandon

197 posts in 1355 days


#3 posted 01-15-2012 04:10 AM

I’m receiving a new safety switch from rockler so I’m going to continue the trouble shooting when it comes in.

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin

View BobM001's profile

BobM001

388 posts in 1018 days


#4 posted 01-15-2012 05:54 PM

If you have the “expertise” and the where with all to do it install a motor starter with overloads to the side of your saw cabinet. That way you can install a start/stop station. My Jet contractor saw came with this wimpy toggle switch that was inconvenient to reach down to operate. Now I have push button start/stop station in a location where with a mushroom head stop button I can just bump it with my hip to turn the saw off. The load side of the starter goes to a duplex recepticle. The saw motor gets plugged into that as well as the shop vac for dust collection. It gets better. I built an attached router table to the saw with a custom machined cast iron table wing. I wired in a second start/stop station with a 4 conductor rubber cord. The push button enclosure has one of those large round magnets on the back that sticks it to the table for “top side control”. The MLCS router speed controller gets plugged into the recepticle that the saw motor was plugged into. The starter will have a chart inside that tells you which overload heaters to install for the saw motor’s full load amps. Better protection for the motor and heavier contacts for starting. A size 0 starter with a 120V coil is heavy enough for the 1.5 HP saw motor and the 2.5 HP plunge router. All it takes is $$$ and time.

Bob

-- OK, who's the wise guy that shrunk the plywood?

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

895 posts in 2301 days


#5 posted 01-15-2012 06:19 PM

I agree with AZMac – sounds like overloaded contacts in the switch. Since you were 10 mins into the job and only cutting pine, it sounds like the switch was woefully underrated.

Although BobM001 is correct – a motor starter is the best way to go – I don’t tend to use them because of the costs involved. I like these switches from Grizzly: H8238 or, if you are into paddles: H8243

I have about 4 of these on various machines in the shop. They are good up to 2HP on 110 and 3HP on 220. They fit standard electrical boxes

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Roger's profile

Roger

14859 posts in 1492 days


#6 posted 01-15-2012 06:21 PM

I’d say the switch. I’d get rid o that extention cord tho. unless it is 12gauge for 20 amp

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

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BobM001

388 posts in 1018 days


#7 posted 01-15-2012 06:43 PM

Get some #12 or even #10 3 conductor SJTO or SOW rubber cord with a high quality dead front plug such as a Hubbell and make a power cord for your saw that you will not need ANY extension cord to plug it in.
Page 27 Hubbell catalog

-- OK, who's the wise guy that shrunk the plywood?

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