What's the best resaw blade for the table saw

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Forum topic by americancanuck posted 01-11-2012 02:32 PM 4410 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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175 posts in 1425 days

01-11-2012 02:32 PM

I do a lot of resawing on my table saw. I curently use a full kerf 40 tooth blade. I am not sure this is the best blade to use. would a thin kerf blade be any advantage? Any thoughts on this question would be greatly appreciated

13 replies so far

View tenontim's profile


2131 posts in 2559 days

#1 posted 01-11-2012 03:04 PM

Thin kerf would save you some wood. Also, less teeth in the blade would be better for a cut with less burning. Forrest has just come out with a 20 tooth, thin kerf (or regular kerf) blade that would work well for resawing.

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Jim Finn

1814 posts in 1737 days

#2 posted 01-11-2012 04:29 PM

I work with all resawn wood and I use a “Woodslicer” blade to resaw with. Very sharp but does dull over time and use.

-- In God We Trust

View richgreer's profile


4539 posts in 1889 days

#3 posted 01-11-2012 04:37 PM

I’m guessing that your 40 tooth blade is a combination blade.

When you resaw you are ripping. I did a project recently (Tinker Toys made with oak) that required a lot of ripping. I find that a true rip blade is faster than a combination blade. My ripping blade has 24 teeth.

Also, I use thin kerf, but I add a stabilizer to minimize wobble. The problem for you may be that the stabilizer reduces your depth of cut.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Jonathan's profile


2607 posts in 1865 days

#4 posted 01-11-2012 04:58 PM

There are certainly pros and cons to going with a thinner kerf blade, as mentioned above. Whether you go to a thinner blade, or not, the lower TPI count would definitely help, since you’re ripping the wood when resawing, as Rich also pointed out. At a minimum, I’d go with a lower tooth count per inch on the blade, probably somewhere in the 20s. This should be especially noticeable on the speed at which the blade will cut, since you’re likely resawing thicker/taller pieces and trying to cut through more wood at once than if you were simply ripping something thinner like 4/4 stock.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View Jonathan's profile


2607 posts in 1865 days

#5 posted 01-11-2012 05:00 PM

Just took a quick look at your workshop. A thinner kerf blade will be especially helpful if you are still using your Ryobi table saw that’s in the picture, since it doesn’t have loads of power to start with.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View StumpyNubs's profile


6362 posts in 1615 days

#6 posted 01-11-2012 05:03 PM

Thin kerf, few teeth. For an affordable option, try one of the red Freud Diablo blades. They run about $30 and are the best mid-range blade, in my opinion. Another option is one of the Trend blades at woodcraft, great value for the price.

Of course you can’t go wrong with a Forest blade if you have the cash!

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View knotscott's profile


5884 posts in 2190 days

#7 posted 01-11-2012 05:19 PM

I usually use a thin kerf 24T ripper. Less burning, less resistance to the saw, less wood consumption. You’re going to need to dress the surface with a planer, jointer, or handplane regardless of which blade you use, so there’s not much advantage trying to use a blade that leaves a smoother surface.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

6376 posts in 2243 days

#8 posted 01-11-2012 05:35 PM

I use the Tenryu #RS-25524-U and have absolutely no complaints.
Ultra thin (.079”), yet does not require stabilizers.
Excellent carbide, great cuts and not as expensive as some others. I buy mine from a sharpener guy. I don’t think his markup is as high as HD or Lowes.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View HorizontalMike's profile


6970 posts in 1729 days

#9 posted 01-11-2012 07:29 PM

I love my Freud 24T for ripping and it actually does a GOOD job on hardwood (1320 Ash in my case) in crosscuts when using a sled. I am occasionally using a 50T Combo blade, but it burns quickly on my 8/4 cuts.

FWIW, I use ONLY full kerf blades since they match my riving knife and I have the 3HP TS to do so.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Jonathan's profile


2607 posts in 1865 days

#10 posted 01-11-2012 07:47 PM

Mike, I’m in the same boat as you as far as going full kerf blade width to work with my riving knife.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View bandit571's profile (online now)


7948 posts in 1498 days

#11 posted 01-11-2012 08:10 PM

The re-sawing I have done lately, well, a $$$ blade would be a waste. I went out and bought a cheap Skil rip (24 tooth) rip blade. About $14, out the door. Lasted about four months, I think. When one does re-claim timbers, one can expect the random cut nail to show up..!!

I use a full kerf, no riving knife, and an old “frankensaw” to cut things down to size. “Frankie’ is pictured in my Woodshop pictures..

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Bertha's profile


12951 posts in 1508 days

#12 posted 01-11-2012 08:24 PM

For “dangerous” work, I use a cheap Dewalt combo package. The TS gets one; the RAS the other. They’re no Forrest but are a pretty good value.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View derosa's profile


1559 posts in 1651 days

#13 posted 01-11-2012 09:05 PM

I just picked up two 24t master mechanic carbide tipped blade from black and decker that seem to do a really decent job.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

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