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Forum topic by BiggKountry posted 01-10-2012 03:58 PM 901 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BiggKountry

18 posts in 1324 days


01-10-2012 03:58 PM

I am starting to build my drill press table today. I am going to use MDF. I have two sheets of 3/4” to laminate together for a thickness of 1 1/2”. My question is what do I use to glue them together? Do I use regular wood glue? Constuction Adhesive? Contact Cement?

Also, what can I use to seal the MDF because I am having a heck of a time locating white laminate? I tried BORG and Lowes and neither carried them. Lowes has some granite looking laminate, but they want $89 a sheet!

Thanks,

Keith


12 replies so far

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TheDane

3794 posts in 2321 days


#1 posted 01-10-2012 04:05 PM

I have used the original TiteBond (red label), but any good quality wood glue should do the job for you.

The only thing I have ever used on jigs/fixtures made of MDF is shellac. Some guys use poly.

If you want laminate, look for somebody in your area that does kitchen counter-tops … quite often they’ll have cut-offs or scraps they’ let go cheap.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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BobAtl

49 posts in 1351 days


#2 posted 01-10-2012 04:06 PM

I’ve used contact cement for MDF-to-plywood and MDF-to-MDF, as well as laminate to both ply and MDF. All have been very successful. I was skeptical about the water-based contact adhesive but after the first use, I’d never go back to solvent-based. Not even sure if it’s available anymore but wouldn’t matter if it is. I used this method for my drill press table, miter saw bench / router table combo and for multiple fences for both set-ups. I highly recommend it.

I’ve gotten white laminate at HD. They carry both the lfull sheets and smaller ones if you prefer buying a half sheet or so.

-- Bob, Atlanta

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Brandon

4138 posts in 1609 days


#3 posted 01-10-2012 04:14 PM

I’ve seen the smaller sheets of laminate at HD as well—around $12 or so. Just noticed, the previous poster is in Atlanta too, so perhaps your region doesn’t sell them.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

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helluvawreck

15814 posts in 1525 days


#4 posted 01-10-2012 04:30 PM

If you ever run across someone that is the furniture or cabinet business he’d be a good person to have as a friend. You’ll probably run across all sorts of things that will come in handy – wood, laminate, hardware.? They usually have to buy more than they need to complete jobs and most places don’t have the room to hang on to drop and excess material forever.

helluvawreck
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com/

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1156 posts in 1739 days


#5 posted 01-10-2012 04:53 PM

I have used polyurethane to seal the MDF on my drill press table and out feed table. A few coats helps keep glue and paint from sticking and from water causing stains or bulging. It is also very easy to refinish if you need to keep that like new look.

The laminate on my router table is smooth but the edges are chipped and it it is dirty from years of use.

Another tip, keep a few inches of over hang on each side of the table for clamps. I did not leave enough and the tee slots are not always in the best spot for what i need.

-- Chris K

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richgreer

4524 posts in 1732 days


#6 posted 01-10-2012 05:05 PM

Regarding – “finding white laminate”

Have you checked the shelving area at hour local big box store?

I recently bought a piece, intended as a work surface, at Menards. It was 8’ x 23.5” and 1.25” thick. I think it cost about $25. You could make a great DP table from that.

IMO – you would need to put an edge on it. On my project, I put on a 1” oak edge and secured it with glue and wood dowels.

Advice – When I made a DP table I put in 2 t-tracks into the basic surface, but I did not have the t-track continue through the edge I had made. Big mistake. It makes it very hard to clear the chips out of the t-track.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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lysdexic

4846 posts in 1281 days


#7 posted 01-10-2012 05:21 PM

good advice Rich

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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BritBoxmaker

4374 posts in 1694 days


#8 posted 02-13-2012 02:53 PM

I know its been a while since you posted this but here goes anyway. When gluing MDF to MDF with wood glue try roughing up the surfaces to be glued with 80 grit first. This gives the glue something to hold on to. MDF has a very flat face normally, which glue will not penetrate or hold on well to.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com

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Chris

68 posts in 1012 days


#9 posted 02-13-2012 02:57 PM

You might want to try the( re store) they seems to always have some old counter tops and office desk tops…

-- Chris ~ Central Michigan

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1235 days


#10 posted 02-13-2012 03:52 PM

Martyn, the faces of MDF are indeed very smooth, but there’s no need to rough them up first; they’re still very porous and soak up glue just fine. I’ve built many MDF laminations and always just used plain yellow glue with no surface prep.

To the OP, you should be able to special order white laminate from HD or Lowe’s.
As for the general process, I would first cut the dp table to rough size, layout all the hardware areas (t-track, etc) and use countersunk screws to hold the MDF together while the glue dries, taking care not to put any screws in the path of the hardware. You can leave them in or take them out once the glue dries.

I would then trim the dp table to final size, glue hardwood edging on, and THEN laminate for a seamless work surface.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1351 days


#11 posted 02-13-2012 03:58 PM

I have nothing to add other than…at my Lowe’s, there’s a second stash of MDF on the shelving aisle. I think it’s precut into 2’x2’ sizes to fit some shelving on that aisle. It’s thicker and about 1/2 the price of the stuff in the back. Go figure. I hope Lowes isn’t reading this:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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Chipy

374 posts in 1251 days


#12 posted 02-17-2012 12:47 PM

If you have a Habitat for Humanity thrift store you my find sheets and sheets of Formica.As for the glue I have used ordinary white glue and a team of horses could not pull the two pieces apart.If you use good pressure on the two halves of MDF you will get a good bond. Use some culls (two by fore or any piece of wood for distributing pressure) .You can use ordinary paste wax rub in about 4 coats and let it dry.If your not sure culls are you can Google image it.

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