Drywall finishing

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Forum topic by Eric posted 01-10-2012 03:14 AM 1032 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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221 posts in 2506 days

01-10-2012 03:14 AM

Topic tags/keywords: drywall

We just recovered from a minor water intrusion in the house. I cut the dry wall 18” up from the floor. Any tips for taping a non-factory edge?

-- Eric

8 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2356 days

#1 posted 01-10-2012 03:19 AM

Cut the face paper back a little wider than the tape, then mud the tape in as usual.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View HamS's profile


1829 posts in 2383 days

#2 posted 01-10-2012 03:24 AM

Hi Neighbor, best way to tape drywall is to hire someone to do it then go work in the shop doing something fun.

That not being an option, then use and old fashioned sureform plane to cut a bevel tinto the edge. They make a tool that will cut that back for you. Some people just let the mud raise the surface just a tiny bit at the joint then taper it out with a wide mud knife.

down south in Wabash.

-- Haming it up in the 'bash.

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Don W

18707 posts in 2562 days

#3 posted 01-10-2012 03:57 AM

you tape a cut edge just like a factory edge, you just need to float it back further. Rasping the edge will also help give a smoother surface to work with.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View tom427cid's profile


294 posts in 2465 days

#4 posted 01-10-2012 07:43 AM


-- "certified sawdust maker"

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3063 days

#5 posted 01-12-2012 09:02 PM

You cut away 18” of drywall because of a MINOR water intrusion?? Sounds pretty major to me. – lol

If you’re dealing with a high visibility area (living room?), you would probably be better off hiring a tape and texture guy. Taping (like painting) looks pretty simple – until you try it yourself and realize that there’s lots more to it than picking up the DIY kit from the local big box after watching a couple of episodes of a home improvement show. You may get it right eventually, but a pro will knock it out in a couple of hours.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View doordude's profile


1085 posts in 2977 days

#6 posted 01-14-2012 09:35 AM

Don’s got the method down. don’t cut the paper back;as clint said. you tape with a six inch knife first, then use a 8 inch knife, then skim coat the joint with a 12 inch knife and then you’re ready to texture.

View sras's profile (online now)


4795 posts in 3124 days

#7 posted 01-15-2012 03:31 PM

One trick I have used is to lightly buff the mud at the transition to the old texture. Just use a damp cloth and light pressure. It gets rid of any sharp edges in the mud since the knife can’t reach below the texture bumps.

It is a little easier to do this when the mud is dry so you don’t scuff the rest of it.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View IrreverentJack's profile


727 posts in 2837 days

#8 posted 01-15-2012 05:23 PM

I like to use a setting type (cementitious) mud like Durabond (90 or 45, then Easysand) because it is stronger and it doesn’t shrink. You never have to worry about the joint being to thick to dry, 45 or 90 minutes and it’s cured. Relieve the joint, use mesh tape, taper/blend it out with the Easysand, and clean your tools well when you are done with each coat. I should say that if you need to sand your drywall joints a lot, this is not the product to use. It is very hard to sand. If you can make smooth joints it’ll mean you tape today and paint tomorrow. -Jack

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