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Forum topic by Eric posted 931 days ago 672 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Eric

185 posts in 1114 days


931 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: drywall

We just recovered from a minor water intrusion in the house. I cut the dry wall 18” up from the floor. Any tips for taping a non-factory edge?

-- Eric


8 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile (online now)

Clint Searl

1390 posts in 964 days


#1 posted 931 days ago

Cut the face paper back a little wider than the tape, then mud the tape in as usual.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

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HamS

1117 posts in 991 days


#2 posted 931 days ago

Hi Neighbor, best way to tape drywall is to hire someone to do it then go work in the shop doing something fun.

That not being an option, then use and old fashioned sureform plane to cut a bevel tinto the edge. They make a tool that will cut that back for you. Some people just let the mud raise the surface just a tiny bit at the joint then taper it out with a wide mud knife.

down south in Wabash.

-- My mother named me Hamilton, I have been trying to earn my nickname ever since.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14659 posts in 1170 days


#3 posted 931 days ago

you tape a cut edge just like a factory edge, you just need to float it back further. Rasping the edge will also help give a smoother surface to work with.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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tom427cid

294 posts in 1073 days


#4 posted 931 days ago

ditto
tom

-- "certified sawdust maker"

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1671 days


#5 posted 929 days ago

You cut away 18” of drywall because of a MINOR water intrusion?? Sounds pretty major to me. – lol

If you’re dealing with a high visibility area (living room?), you would probably be better off hiring a tape and texture guy. Taping (like painting) looks pretty simple – until you try it yourself and realize that there’s lots more to it than picking up the DIY kit from the local big box after watching a couple of episodes of a home improvement show. You may get it right eventually, but a pro will knock it out in a couple of hours.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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doordude

1085 posts in 1585 days


#6 posted 927 days ago

Don’s got the method down. don’t cut the paper back;as clint said. you tape with a six inch knife first, then use a 8 inch knife, then skim coat the joint with a 12 inch knife and then you’re ready to texture.

View sras's profile

sras

3782 posts in 1732 days


#7 posted 926 days ago

One trick I have used is to lightly buff the mud at the transition to the old texture. Just use a damp cloth and light pressure. It gets rid of any sharp edges in the mud since the knife can’t reach below the texture bumps.

It is a little easier to do this when the mud is dry so you don’t scuff the rest of it.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1446 days


#8 posted 926 days ago

I like to use a setting type (cementitious) mud like Durabond (90 or 45, then Easysand) because it is stronger and it doesn’t shrink. You never have to worry about the joint being to thick to dry, 45 or 90 minutes and it’s cured. Relieve the joint, use mesh tape, taper/blend it out with the Easysand, and clean your tools well when you are done with each coat. I should say that if you need to sand your drywall joints a lot, this is not the product to use. It is very hard to sand. If you can make smooth joints it’ll mean you tape today and paint tomorrow. -Jack

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