|Forum topic by niki||posted 04-20-2007 08:47 PM||1318 views||0 times favorited||3 replies|
04-20-2007 08:47 PM
Sometimes the boards for a panel glue-up are narrower than 3” and I cannot “joint” them with straight edge.
Another case is, when I need the boards to be very consistent in width for cabinet parts, door frame and especially for 45° frame.
Some of you, will maybe find this set-up dangerous to use because the board is trapped between the straight edge (SE in the pics) and the bit.
As for me, I was trying to picture the worst scenario and I even pushed the board deliberately into the bit in during operation (the bit just dug into the Oak) so, I think that the set-up is safe to use but it’s very personal, like, many people are impressed of the “Grrriper” but, when I used it (I made it for $2), I was lucky to ware the brown pants that day….I just “Deleted” the idea.
As for the set-up, you will notice that I’m “shaving” only 0.1 mm (0.004”) and the bit is protruding 0.3mm (0.012”) out of the “Fence” (when you look from above), that means that the board can move laterally only 0.012” if something goes wrong. In any case, I’m standing behind the straight edge or, I can stand behind the fence.
The set-up went through many modifications, so, some pictures are without the “Fence” that is the latest version.
In the pics, the straight edge (SE) is the Aluminum bar and the Fence is the wooden one (maybe it would be better to call it guard).
The wooden Fence is acting not only as a guard but also, as a “locator” to position the next board without touching the router bit anymore (I have to touch the bit and rotate by hand only at the initial set-up).
The straight edge must be at least the double the length of the board so I bought a 100” straight edge ($21) that covers all my requirements (and it’s also useful as CS guide).